ashaw
Member
Need any comments good or bad.
Thanks
Alan
Trying out a new layout
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Need any comments good or bad.
Thanks
Alan
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gketell
Local Chapter Leader
I don't like the blocks of grey bu I do like the layout! If you could figure out a different tand I think it would be great!
gk
gk
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
I don't think that's it, Alan.
How about a very light grey instead of "hospital white" background - might help drop out the grey supports????
How about a very light grey instead of "hospital white" background - might help drop out the grey supports????
Fred
Member
The grey visible in the supports is coming from the reflection of the top of the supports and possibly from the pen itself.
Definitely change them for something different. If possible try pushing a wire through a cloth and then enter the pen through the small opening at the tip. Of course you first have to remove the ink refill. You can then bend the wire to what ever position you like.
Also, your lighting is overexposing the pen and thus the image is "washed out" a bit. Try a smaller aperture or faster shutter speed. If using a digital - and I hope you are - bracket the exposures first changing the f-stops and then try changing both the f-stop and shutter speeds. You will find a 'sweet spot' in the exposures very quickly.
For instance, if the above shot is made at 125th second and f/4, close the f-stop to 5.6, 8, 11, etc. and then look at each exposure. Look for detail enhancements in the wood surface.
If the metal parts are too bright, well, then you have to start changing the proximity of the light source(s).
From looking at these shots Iwould say that your lights are way too close to either the pen, or, if you re using a light tent that they are too close to the fabric being used as a diffuser.
Either way, you must change the camera settings and the light source a bit to eliminate the 'washed out' exposures.
Repost your photographs with the camera settings and let's see where we can go from there. Right now I am just grabbing at suggestions to try and help you out. [
]
Definitely change them for something different. If possible try pushing a wire through a cloth and then enter the pen through the small opening at the tip. Of course you first have to remove the ink refill. You can then bend the wire to what ever position you like.
Also, your lighting is overexposing the pen and thus the image is "washed out" a bit. Try a smaller aperture or faster shutter speed. If using a digital - and I hope you are - bracket the exposures first changing the f-stops and then try changing both the f-stop and shutter speeds. You will find a 'sweet spot' in the exposures very quickly.
For instance, if the above shot is made at 125th second and f/4, close the f-stop to 5.6, 8, 11, etc. and then look at each exposure. Look for detail enhancements in the wood surface.
If the metal parts are too bright, well, then you have to start changing the proximity of the light source(s).
From looking at these shots Iwould say that your lights are way too close to either the pen, or, if you re using a light tent that they are too close to the fabric being used as a diffuser.
Either way, you must change the camera settings and the light source a bit to eliminate the 'washed out' exposures.
Repost your photographs with the camera settings and let's see where we can go from there. Right now I am just grabbing at suggestions to try and help you out. [
]ashaw
Member
Thanks everyone.
I off to try some different. I will hopefully take the same pen tomorrow night.
Thanks again.
I off to try some different. I will hopefully take the same pen tomorrow night.
Thanks again.
MDWine
Member
...and I'm off to try my own shots again tonight with some of the tips offered here!!
Thanks! []
Thanks! [
]dbriski
Member
Fred, I have a D70, and am fairly proficient with it. One thing I have never understood was Bracketing. What does it mean, what does it do and how do you do it?
Fred
Member
David, bracketing is when you make an exposure and change one thing, and then increase or decrease. I.e., you take the first exposure at whatever the camera says to use, let's assume it meters the shot to be 125 sec. @ f/5.6. Make this exposure and then change the aperture to f/8, then f/4. That puts your exposure one darker and one lighter than what the camera 'metered'. I usually start at 60 sec. f/2 and go up one F stop at a time. Be sure to make no other changes as that would men you have to start all over.
Once you have made a string of exposures, go to the PC and download all the shots. Then look at them one at a time until you find the one with the best color saturation, exposure, and depth of field. That one is then used in the photo program and will allow you a bit of additional leeway if changes are necessary.
This method is easiest if you make no changes to lighting and/or background. Any changes will require a new set of shots to be made. This will be true with a change in wood used, a change in lighting, a change in distance from subject. Any changes = new shots.
Another useful trick is to do as much in the camera as you can then use the programing - such as Adobe Photoshop - to enhance or eliminate that which needs work. Try to get as much information as possible into the camera such as pixel count if you know how to do it. This also adds definition to the subject which in turn will allow you to enlarge the image if necessary. Many web sites allow a maximum density so use that as your initial guide or you may not be able to post your images. Too much information means to long a upload and/or download time.
As one of the moderators here what their allowed parameters are and use that as your initial setup. Then make your string of exposures and post the best one.
Confused about this still ... post your questions and I'll do what I can to help you and anyone else. []
Once you have made a string of exposures, go to the PC and download all the shots. Then look at them one at a time until you find the one with the best color saturation, exposure, and depth of field. That one is then used in the photo program and will allow you a bit of additional leeway if changes are necessary.
This method is easiest if you make no changes to lighting and/or background. Any changes will require a new set of shots to be made. This will be true with a change in wood used, a change in lighting, a change in distance from subject. Any changes = new shots.
Another useful trick is to do as much in the camera as you can then use the programing - such as Adobe Photoshop - to enhance or eliminate that which needs work. Try to get as much information as possible into the camera such as pixel count if you know how to do it. This also adds definition to the subject which in turn will allow you to enlarge the image if necessary. Many web sites allow a maximum density so use that as your initial guide or you may not be able to post your images. Too much information means to long a upload and/or download time.
As one of the moderators here what their allowed parameters are and use that as your initial setup. Then make your string of exposures and post the best one.
Confused about this still ... post your questions and I'll do what I can to help you and anyone else. [
]jtate
Member
I like the alternate layout - one picture of the pen and then small pics of different views of the pen below it. I always want to see the back side of pens that I see posted here and other places.
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