tricks of the trade

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RAdams

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I was just reading about how some people have found Silmar locally for cheaper than USComposites, so it got me to thinking about all the little tricks that we use. I want to share a few of mine, and the ones i have recently learned and everyone please feel free to add to the list, or use anything listed!!


Contact local fiberglass supply stores to price resin. You may save at least the shipping cost.

Silicone muffin cups make excellent mixing cups, and pendant blank molds and they are reusable.

Alumilite will soak right through a dixie paper cup.

A popsickle stick with a weight on top will keep burl pieces from floating out of the resin.

A ball of fresh silicone in a bucket of soapy water is alot of fun to play with!

Parsley cast in resin looks illegal in most states.

PVC pipe bends with heat.

I never "open" a 1 gallon can of Silmar 41. Instead, I use a phillips head screwdriver and knock two holes through the lid for air, and one hole in an opposite corner for pouring. I cover the holes with tape when not in use. The tape is much easier to open than sticky, gummy lid threads, and with the pour hole right in the corner, you dont get the "pouring over a ledge" effect of the lid and the shoulder of the can.
 
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RAdams said:
I was just reading about how some people have found Silmar locally for cheaper than USComposites, so it got me to thinking about all the little tricks that we use. I want to share a few of mine, and the ones i have recently learned and everyone please feel free to add to the list, or use anything listed!!


Contact local fiberglass supply stores to price resin. You may save at least the shipping cost.

Silicone muffin cups make excellent mixing cups, and pendant blank molds and they are reusable.

Alumilite will soak right through a dixie paper cup.

A popsickle stick with a weight on top will keep burl pieces from floating out of the resin.

A ball of fresh silicone in a bucket of soapy water is alot of fun to play with!

Parsley cast in resin looks illegal in most states.

PVC pipe bends with heat.

I never "open" a 1 gallon can of Silmar 41. Instead, I use a phillips head screwdriver and knock two holes through the lid for air, and one hole in an opposite corner for pouring. I cover the holes with tape when not in use. The tape is much easier to open than sticky, gummy lid threads, and with the pour hole right in the corner, you dont get the "pouring over a ledge" effect of the lid and the shoulder of the can.
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Ron,
Does it stay in place after pouring since it's light (which I think it should) till gelling takes hold, or float to the surface.
 
I would guess if you wait till just before it flashes mix it in and thats how you get even dispersal....Just my thoughts
 
This could turn into a real good thread. I'm anxious to read more additions. I'm thinking the punching holes in the lid would work for gallon paint cans also.

I don't cast yet so I can't add.
 
A soda can turned upside down makes a nice paperweight mold. The resin from an aircraft plexiglass repair kit cures clear as glass. Pour in have and position one of the leaves he 1Sgt tore up around barracks and pour the rest....Awsome paper weight. Sorry no pics from back then..
 
if PR fumes are a problem you can seal the mold in a 5gallon bucket to help keep it to a minimum and once it's cured (overnight to be sure) take it outside so there's ventilation and open it up. Same thing can be done with a pressure pot if you have one. I'll keep posting more as they come to mind.
 
A 7mm tube with one end ground to a 30 degree angle and the other mounted into a scrap wood handle is a far better way to measure and move pigment powders than those little shallow spoons. The deeper you push it in, the more you get. But usually You just need to use enough to fill in the end.

In emergencies, coffee grounds and ca will fill in ebony and match almost exactly.

5 minute epoxy will take most powder tints almost exactly like PR or alumalite, and also makes a pretty good patch, but you don't need much powder at all. (see hint # 1)

a large pair of hemostats works very well to hold a bullet while you melt out the lead. Just don't let the cops (or your mother in law) see it after you have been using it for a while!

more to come as I remember them!
 
For WW casts:

- Glue pieces of wood to the mold with dabs of thick CA so they don't float. Spray the mold with accelerant and press in place. The CA will pop right off of silicone and cutting board molds with the cured blanks.

- When using holey wood, position the holes so air can escape to the surface instead of being trapped in/under the wood.

- When pouring resin, pour slowly into a corner or spot that lets the resin flow into the bottom of the mold first and fill from the bottom up. This will help force out air bubbles. I also tap the filled mold to help dislodge more air bubbles. (Yes there is enough time to do all of this with Alumilite Clear and get it into the pressure pot).
 
jthompson1995 said:
For WW casts:

- Glue pieces of wood to the mold with dabs of thick CA so they don't float. Spray the mold with accelerant and press in place. The CA will pop right off of silicone and cutting board molds with the cured blanks.

- When using holey wood, position the holes so air can escape to the surface instead of being trapped in/under the wood.

- When pouring resin, pour slowly into a corner or spot that lets the resin flow into the bottom of the mold first and fill from the bottom up. This will help force out air bubbles. I also tap the filled mold to help dislodge more air bubbles. (Yes there is enough time to do all of this with Alumilite Clear and get it into the pressure pot).
Click to expand...


This post could not have come at a better time for me.... well maybe yesterday, before i ruined the first piece of aspen burl due to floating issues. I felt like some sort of twisted plumber, poking at floaters:eek::biggrin:. I will try the CA trick for sure... in just a few minutes in fact!!

So do you just put a few drops on teh piece of wood, and spray the accelerator on teh mold and stick it on there where you want it? How long should i let it set to dry before casting?
 
I do not know why, but i can type fine, all but spelling the stupid word "THE"... sorry.
 
RAdams said:
So do you just put a few drops on the piece of wood, and spray the accelerator on the mold and stick it on there where you want it? How long should i let it set to dry before casting?
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That's exactly what I do. The accelerator will set the CA quickly so I just wait until the wood is stuck so it won't move if nudged a little and go from there. I usually do my WW in a cutting board block mold that gets me 6 or 7 blanks when cut apart so it takes a few minutes to get everything glued in place. I also use alumilite so I don't start mixing the resin until the mold is ready; the glue can set solid while I'm mixing the resin.
 
Yeah, I am a gamer, but i cant play online because of my uber slow connection. I think it is an old hacker thing where they spell it that way on purpose, like the word 1337.
 
Arrgghh... I thought leetspeak was dead. I used to moderate a web :)forum a few years ago, and the kidiots there used it so much it made my eyes ache. It's a sad thing when a 52 year old geezer can read that stuff.
 
BigguyZ said:
Rmartin said:
Don't polish Trustone with gold web on your buffing wheels.:redface:
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Not really a casting thing, but I'm curious as to why? Does the polish get built up into the "cracks", or does it blow apart?
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Didn't realize this was a casting only tricks post when I posted, but to answer your question, buffing wheels do not like metal. It turns your wheels black.
 
Rmartin said:
BigguyZ said:
Rmartin said:
Don't polish Trustone with gold web on your buffing wheels.:redface:
Click to expand...

Not really a casting thing, but I'm curious as to why? Does the polish get built up into the "cracks", or does it blow apart?
Click to expand...


Didn't realize this was a casting only tricks post when I posted, but to answer your question, buffing wheels do not like metal. It turns your wheels black.
Click to expand...

YES! I was right!!! YEAY ME!


PS... this isn't a casting only thread..... You are more than welcome to post whatever tricks you want, But as i started it in the casting forum, I was kinda going for that theme... Otherwise, I would have added several other tricks that i know that are not casting related... But thanks for the tip!! I never even considered that till you posted...


PSS... You can take a razor or sharp knife and turn the lathe up with the buff on it, and "trim" the black edge off. No tool rest, come at it from the side of the buff and carefully cut straight into the spinning material. Centrifugal force will keep the material stretched out while you cut! The buff edge will be a bit fuzzy at first, but that doesnt last long.
 
Instead of using micro-mesh, and scratch removing polish, I sand to 600 grit and use Minwax Wipe on Poly.

I use it on my snakeskin blanks. I put some poly on a clean soft rag, rub in circles, then wipe the excess off by lightly wiping the length of the barrels. I think it does a better job then sanding and polishing, it not only removes the scratches, but fills them in completely.

Remember to leave them sit for awhile to dry before handling.
 
^Hmmm... put me down as skeptical on that finish, but I'd love to be proven wrong! You have any good pics close up?
 
Skye said:
^Hmmm... put me down as skeptical on that finish, but I'd love to be proven wrong! You have any good pics close up?
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This is as good as it gets for cloeups, I don't have the camera for quality up close photos.

100_2125.jpg


100_2122.jpg



100_2127.jpg


100_2039.jpg
 
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RAdams said:
Contact local fiberglass supply stores to price resin. You may save at least the shipping cost.
Click to expand...

Too right. I bought my first batch of resin on eBay and was just at the "Pay" stage, when I realised the seller was only a few miles away! I went down to see his warehouse and was blown away.

Of course the danger here is that youwill probably end up spending more that you were going to once you see all those shelves of lovely colours!!
 
Skye said:
S.A.Mappin said:
This is as good as it gets for cloeups, I don't have the camera for quality up close photos.
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They do look good but I'd suggest a side-by-side of a MM finished and your process.
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I've already compared the two. I no longer have any pens that have been done the MM way. I'm quite convinced with what I'm using now as being as good, if not better. AND CHEAPER.

Not to mention it works out real good when you're using multiple mediums for pens, like wood laminated with acrylics.
 
I use powdered pigments for much of my casting, and no matter how long I stir it, some of the colors (mostly yellow and white) tend to not dissolve and will settle to the bottom of the mold. I started straining the colored resin through automotive paint filter cones before adding the MEKP. The undissolved pigment is no longer a problem.
 
On all my plastic/PR blanks or Blanks that have a lot of Ca on them I use CD scratch remover. you can get it for MUCH less then PSI plastic polish I found that it cut my time in half for final finish and polish
 
Apply a bit of uncatalyzed PR with a brush to your wood and let it set a bit before pouring the catalyzed PR over it. You'll virtually eliminate the trapped air along the wood fibers.

Mix your coffee beans in uncatalyzed PR, just enough to wet them. Then add to catalyzed resin. Same reason as above. I cheat and use too much, then pour it off through a mesh coffee filter... NOT PAPER unless you have a week to wait. Then I MEKP it and mix it back in.

A post cure will resolve any hidden uncured PR from the above steps.
 
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