Throwing away my Micro Mesh

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David350

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Sep 10, 2017
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Dallas, TX
I've made several hundred "acrylic" pens with the following methodology:

1. Turn with round carbide insert
2. Wet sand with 220, 320, 400, 600, and 800 sand paper
3. Micro Mesh with all 9 pads
4. Polish with Novus 3-2-1, but I only use the Novus 3 Heavy Scratch and Novus 2 Fine Scratch (Amazon)

I've been very pleased with the results but I was wondering if I could streamline this a bit as it seems like the Novus does a really good job. I recently made 2 cigar pens (Berea Hybrid Black TG / Plat, available at EB) using the Amedeo Blue pen blank from EB (no longer available from them but try thegoldennib.com).

One pen is made using the above method, and another is made skipping all the MM, and going directly from 800 wet sanding to the Novus 3 & 2 polishing compounds. Can you tell which pen is which? Honestly, I cannot remember or tell which is which, so that's a good thing as I can eliminate the MM. I have also done this with other types of "acrylic" including the Rhino (polyester) and Acrylic Acetate with the same results.
 

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Get rid of the sandpaper. I see no reason in the world where you need to start sanding with 220grit. use 400 or 600 and go to MM. Polish is just that polish . No way can we see what either pen looks like from a photo. You have it in your hands and can see detail better by certain light. This is my opinion.
 
I agree with John. If you are using sharp carbide tools, I only use lower grits if I'm fixing some sort of mistake or sanding down closer to the bushings.

Otherwise, I start with 320-400 depending on the material. They both look pretty good to me in that photo. I stop at the end of the micro mesh and am satisfied with the result. It seems to be about finding a process you do well and are happy with.
 
I agree completely with John and Derek. In fact, I have begun starting with 600 grit whenever possible.

I have also switched from the Micro Mesh pads to Zona Paper. There are only 6 of the Zona Paper grits as opposed to the 9 for Micro Mesh.

If you really want to put your sanding/polishing to the test, do something in a completely black material, use good lighting and a magnifying glass or loupe to inspect it. Or maybe don't :cool: , because it can will very telling as it will expose what the naked eye cannot see under normal light.
 
In person, I believe I could pick out the more effortful one. If the final cuts are made with a round carbide, I understand the need for rough sandpaper. A square carbide can give you a smooth flat surface with no tool marks with some practice.
 
It is because the Novus 321 you're using does the same thing as Micromesh. Buffing compounds can be made of a lot finer equivalent grit than micro mesh and still achieve the results, in significantly less time. Unfortunately information on pen making is really unclear as to what does what. Typically the people I have been following that make pens professionally start wet sanding at 400 or 600 depending on what finish they get (for acrylic, and after CA has been applied for wood), wet sand acrylic (or wood) stopping at 800 - 2000 depending on what buffing compound they use, then use the buffing compound. What buffing compound is used varies widely - blue Jewler's Rouge, Tripoli/White Diamond/Carnauba wax, Mirka Polish/Steve's Woodcraft Stellar shine (same thing, different brands), Kustom Grit...etc.
 
Also, it is easier to achieve a scratch free finish with buffing compound only after wet sanding, because with micromesh it is prone to leaving a random deeper scratch that you don't catch until the blank is dry.
 
Thanks for the feedback everyone, sorry the pic is not the best. The round carbide does leave tool marks so that is why I start with the 220. I also like how I can tweak the profile of the blank with the 220, something I'm not sure how well I can do with the carbide insert. I may see about the square insert so I can eliminate the courser sandpaper grits.
 
A "eureka" moment when I found that when using MM, wet the pad thoroughly to get a slurry. Apply for a few seconds, wipe off with a clean towel and move on to the next pad. I did find that HF carries a 1000 wet/dry sandpaper. Will look at it the next time I'm in that end of town.
 
David350 said:
Thanks for the feedback everyone, sorry the pic is not the best. The round carbide does leave tool marks so that is why I start with the 220. I also like how I can tweak the profile of the blank with the 220, something I'm not sure how well I can do with the carbide insert. I may see about the square insert so I can eliminate the courser sandpaper grits.
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David, I get that you like being able to tweak or fine tune the profile with the 220 grit, but, you will eventually realize (as I did) that it is this 220 grit that is putting in the scratches that are SO difficult to get rid of later.
 
Actually, I have not had any issues with scratches. I wish I could photograph the pens better as all my pens have a high gloss that are scratch free...
 
Woodchipper said:
A "eureka" moment when I found that when using MM, wet the pad thoroughly to get a slurry. Apply for a few seconds, wipe off with a clean towel and move on to the next pad. I did find that HF carries a 1000 wet/dry sandpaper. Will look at it the next time I'm in that end of town.
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Automotive places have packs of wet or dry paper that have a variety of grits up to maybe 3000. The sheets are smaller not the 8 x 11.
 
wouldentu2? said:
Automotive places have packs of wet or dry paper that have a variety of grits up to maybe 3000. The sheets are smaller not the 8 x 11.
Click to expand...
Plus, they have the polishing compounds to get your finish to a mirror-like shine.

I just wish there was a universal system all products used to denote grit or whatever units of measure is used. Most of the polishing stuff don't translate their product to grit. I think of Yorkshire Grit & Microfine, etc.
 
Woodchipper said:
A "eureka" moment when I found that when using MM, wet the pad thoroughly to get a slurry. Apply for a few seconds, wipe off with a clean towel and move on to the next pad. I did find that HF carries a 1000 wet/dry sandpaper. Will look at it the next time I'm in that end of town.
Click to expand...
That's my process too. I use each MM pad for maybe 10 to 15 seconds on each blank. I also use a couple of drops of Cascade rinse aid as a wetting agent in my water. - Dave
 
I've been coming to the same conclusion. And might throw out a lot of junk I have been using. I'm planning on just keeping dispenser with 200, 400, 600, 800, yorkshire ultra fine and friction polish. Still testing it, but I'm getting very good results from not a lot of work compared to the more laborious methods I used to use, including micro mesh.

I have found wiping with a clean microfiber inbetween rounds helps as well.
 
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