Switching to drilling on the lathe

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Scooley01

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College Station, Texas
I own a cheap drill press I got from Home Depot a couple years ago, and it's just not working for me anymore. I dread drilling my blanks on every project I do. It tends to wobble the bit somewhat in the hole resulting in offcenter drillings or something, not sure what...I've ruined a couple blanks due to it.

Anyways, I've kind of just chalked that up to buying a <$100 table top drill press versus a better brand one. I'll eventually replace it, but in the mean time it seems that a better, more accurate way to get my blanks drilled is to do it on the lathe.

Can someone help me with figuring out what I need to do this effectively?
This is the lathe I have:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TCLC10.html

From what I understand, I'll need a Jacobs chuck/drill chuck for my tailstock, and some sort of jawed chuck for my headstock, correct? Currently all I have is a collet chuck that holds my pen mandrel and a live center for the tailstock...
 
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Does you have a 3/4" collet for your collet chuck?? I usually round my blanks between centers to about 3/4" diameter (check diameter with a 3/4" open-ended wrench), cut them to length (slightly oversize), and then chuck them in my collet chuck for drilling.

Then I use a drill chuck (a.k.a. Jacob's chuck) in the tailstock for drilling.

- Joe
 
Scooley01 said:
I own a cheap drill press I got from Home Depot a couple years ago, and it's just not working for me anymore. I dread drilling my blanks on every project I do. It tends to wobble the bit somewhat in the hole resulting in offcenter drillings or something, not sure what...I've ruined a couple blanks due to it.

Anyways, I've kind of just chalked that up to buying a <$100 table top drill press versus a better brand one. I'll eventually replace it, but in the mean time it seems that a better, more accurate way to get my blanks drilled is to do it on the lathe.

Can someone help me with figuring out what I need to do this effectively?
This is the lathe I have:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TCLC10.html

From what I understand, I'll need a Jacobs chuck/drill chuck for my tailstock, and some sort of jawed chuck for my headstock, correct? Currently all I have is a collet chuck that holds my pen mandrel and a live center for the tailstock...
Click to expand...

I did the same thing a few months ago, I bought the Barracuda 2 www.pennstateind.com/store/CSC3000CTN.html so I could turn some other things besides pens and got a Jacobs Chuck, both from PSI. Love them and felt I made the right decision for me.
 
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If that's the same exact model lathe you have then it's a #2MT and PSI has dedicated pen chuck for you! Buy that chuck and a drill chuck to hold the bit and you're all set. If you have one of the older lathe models from PSI like I do that was a #1MT then you'll need the setup you mentioned in the post. Do a search on PSI for the pen chuck and it will screw right onto your lathe.
 
I've had my lathe for about 2 years now...is there any chance that it's a #1mt instead of a #2? I'd hate to spend money on something that doesn't fit...

Also, how do you release morse tapers? Just knock it out with a mallet? Because it seems pretty darn stuck...

Edit: Also, is it incredibly annoying to switch the chucks in a lathe? I've been running with the same things in mine since I got it, so it'd change up my pace a ton if I had to spend a ton of time removing the drilling setup and setting it back up for turning.
 
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I bought mine a little I've a year ago and it's the #1MT. The 1 is a little slimmer than the 2. See if there's a model number on your lathe and post it. I'm sure we'll be able to figure it out. Also, I use a rod and tap hammer to break the seal. No issues so far.
 
I bored out a couple hundred dollars worth of the mutt blanks from Eugene before I switched over. Perfect hole each time now! Never looked back and gave away that pen vice that held the blanks.
 
I actually have a rather nice Drill press, one of the few tools I was able to spend a bit on..........it's no where near as accurate or easy for drilling blanks as the lathe is! I dont think it takes any more time to drill on a lathe, especially if I drill several blanks at once. PS trimming the ends is far more effective on the lathe as well.
 
I use the PSI dedicated pen chuck with good results. My HF drill press (even less expensive than HD) does a decent job, but PITA. Cant use a DP vise due to not enough space between table and end of bit. I can clamp the blank to a cross piece clamped to the table. But then I have to drill 2" (max quill travel on my DP), loosen the chuck, drop drill bit into the blank, retighten chuck and finish drilling. While the actual drilling time on DP is less than on the lathe, the above procedure is very time consuming. So until I get a different DP, the lathe is my best option.
 
When you trim, is it the same as using a drill with the trimmer? I usually use a power hand drill to use my trimmer, as I find I put too much pressure and cut too far with the drill press...
 
I bought a Nova G3 on sale at Woodcraft before I ever bought my lathe, but I didn't own the right set of jaws initially, so I used my drill press. I finally bought a set of pin jaws that work well to hold square blanks. If the blank is not square, I'll usually turn between centers to make it round, then chuck it and drill.

Regardless of the blank cross section, I haven't drilled a blank on my DP for almost a year, and cannot see going back.

My next major purchase will be a complete collet chuck setup, and would probably turn a blank to 3/4", and then put it in the collet chuck (as mentioned earlier by turbowagon).
 
Scooley,

Didn't your lathe come with a bar to insert into the spindle to knock out your chucks or other Morse-tapered accessories? I am constantly changing between pen mandrel, scroll chuck, Jacobs chuck, spur drive, etc., and the knockout bar is a must (scroll chuck threads on, but all others are MT2).

I did buy a 2nd scroll chuck, so I can keep my two most used set of jaws on them, since changing the jaws is a bit tedious.

Finally, if you use a Jacobs chuck in the headstock, and have no support at the tailstock, you definitely want a drawbar to hold it in -- you do not want one of those flying out! I think most Jacobs chucks that have a Morse taper are threaded 1/4-20 for a drawbar. I made my own with 1/4-20 allthread, and use a small 3-arm plastic star-nut to thread on at the handwheel end of the headstock.

Scooley01 said:
Also, how do you release morse tapers? Just knock it out with a mallet? Because it seems pretty darn stuck...

Edit: Also, is it incredibly annoying to switch the chucks in a lathe? I've been running with the same things in mine since I got it, so it'd change up my pace a ton if I had to spend a ton of time removing the drilling setup and setting it back up for turning.
Click to expand...
 
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I had been using a DP with a decent pen drilling vice. Had some troubles (off center & angled holes) so I thought I'd try the lathe. Results are better, but I have some observations:
1 - Real important (whichever method you use) to get your blanks straight and square. I've been "milling" them straight and square on the table saw recently and getting MUCH better results (both methods). Esp important if you have a "warped" blank - like a dyed box elder burl.
2 - Also important to make sure your lathe tailstock is true to the headstock (I mean dead on, gang) and rock solid. Sloppiness or untrue will give poorer results.
 
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Potential problem: My stuff got here today, and the pen drilling jaws are threaded (1" x 8tpi according to the info included with them). Until I can get out into the shop, is this something that fits on my lathe? Is the tail stock the only thing that's morse-tapered? I've had the thing so long I barely remember putting it together...
 
Scooley01 said:
Potential problem: My stuff got here today, and the pen drilling jaws are threaded (1" x 8tpi according to the info included with them). Until I can get out into the shop, is this something that fits on my lathe? Is the tail stock the only thing that's morse-tapered? I've had the thing so long I barely remember putting it together...
Click to expand...
According to the specs from the link that you posted in the OP, your lathe's headstock thread is 1x8 so you are good to go.
 
Alright I finally had some free time to spend in the shop today. My lathe does have a rod to pop out the tapers, no problems there (I forgot it's stored on the front.)

So I took off the tailstock, installed the drill chuck, and tightened in the appropriate bit.

Next I took the mandrel out of the deal that's on there...my problem is, I can't get the face plate that is screwed onto the headstock threads to come off...locking the spindle doesn't do anything but start to chew up the gear in the inside. Any thoughts? I've included some pics...

Face Plate:
IMAG0156-1.jpg


Mandrel, removed:
IMAG0157-1.jpg


Lathe info plaque:
IMAG0158-1.jpg
 
Two thoughts:
  1. Do the headstock and faceplate have holes to stick bars into to get them to twist in opposite directions?
  2. Righty tighty lefty loosey
 
Used both a good drill presss and the lathe for drilling. Lathe wins hands down.

I heard a presenter at a symposium praise the true "Jacobs" brand chuck and did an eBay search. Found lots of Jacobs chucks for sale used and picked one up for maybe $15-$20.
 
There are 4 holes aroind the face plate, but thats all I can see. Besides, I can already get a grip,on the face plate with my adjustable wrench...its keeping the spindle from turning that I'm having issues with.
 
I have that same lathe. I was able to get the face plate off with large channel locks on the fp shaft and a tight grip on the hand wheel. If it has been on for any length of time, try penetrating oil.
 
Two pipe wrenches who's jaws do not extend past the edge of the collar on the lathe and the small diameter of the face plate. Place the wrendh on the lathe collar with the opening up and the other facing down. Put a block of wood under the handle of the wrench on the lathe collar on the ways to avoid damage to teh ways. I know, not very elegant, but should work without applying heat. Best of luck.
Charles
 
Steven - Try some penetrating oil where the face plate hits the headstock threads (back side and front). Also might try to immobilize the spindle on the backside better than the spindle lock (any place to grab on with a wrench?). could be a 2-person op to get it started but I bet as soon as it breaks free it'll spin off.
 
I finally got it off! Thank goodness! Lots of tools, and plenty of penetrating oil (and a lot of patience)

I put a pair of channel locks on the spindle shaft through the back port of the lathe, and tried a monkey wrench on the face plate. The channels held fairly tight, but still started to slip a bit once enough pressure was applied...so I found a pair of groove joint pliers and grabbed onto the shaft with them also. These were harder to hold on with since they don't lock and the handles were pretty wide, so I struggled for a while...finally ended up opening up my big wooden screw clamp really wide and putting the groove joint's handles between and clamping down on them with the clamp as hard as I could. The whole combination let me pop the face plate, then it unscrewed by hand.

Now I'm having a slight issue with the actual drilling. I move the tailstock up as close as I can without touching to the blank, lock it down, then turn the lathe on and progress the tailstock with the wheel on the far end (Mine has a wheel instead of a crank, which would make this easier). I go slow, back it out often to remove chips, and when reach the end of the travel of the wheel, I stop the lathe, retract the tailstock, advance it into the hole along the bed, and start again until I've gone all the way through. This is the way I was told it should be done...but my holes are a tiny bit bigger than they should be. To the point where my tubes fall straight through and don't fit snugly.

Luckily I use epoxy, which expands to fill those kind of gaps, but it's still less than ideal...I'd rather still have a snug fit. Any ideas what's happening here?

PS: Thanks to everyone for help getting that dang face plate off!
 
Scooley01 said:
.but my holes are a tiny bit bigger than they should be. To the point where my tubes fall straight through and don't fit snugly.
Click to expand...

The drill size on the instructions is only a suggestion. I will often find a smaller drill size creates a better fit. I write the drill size for wood and acrylic on the instructions and the instructions go in a loose leaf binder. A 115 piece (Fractional,Number, & Letter) drill set is a good investment.

Drill a hole that fits the tube closely and verify that the hole is the same size through out it's length.
 
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