Starting to play with segments.

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MrBubblehead

MrBubblehead

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I acquired an old Stanley mitre saw today and spent the afternoon hiding from the world in my shop. I made three blanks 2 are stolen directly from Dehn0045 using Yellowheart and purpleheart alternating at 45s. And one is just my first Celtic knot.

I have glued them all with thin CA. The Celtic knot got glued slightly off before I had a chance to correct it.

I have to ask what do you guys wear for gloves? I used nitrile gloves but they just stick and tear too fast.

Thanks for looking, any tips are appreciated.
 

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Looking good! That's awesome for a first Celtic knot. Looking forward to seeing the finished pens!

When using thin CA I usually end up with nice layer of CA on most of my fingers, provides some protection from further CA spillage :biggrin:. When doing the initial glue up I use some accelerator to harden any spillage, I try to avoid accelerator when I am "soaking" the joint afterward.
 
If you are going to use CA please use med CA. Thin CA will soak into the wood well before it grabs the acrylic or metal. I prefer (structral)epoxy. Just a pointer if you want to be successful doing segments.
 
Thanks John. I have used 15min epoxy for another one I did but was impatient and wanted something to cure that day. I have to order some more CA anyway so I'll be ordering three different thicknesses.
 
Interesting thread. Does anyone use Titebond II or III for segmenting? Have some scraps that I need to experiment with in the near future. Thanks.
 
I've pretty much always used Titebond II for my all-wood segmented blanks. I, personally, don't think thin super glue is strong enough to hold the segments together. I also don't think thin super glue gives enough time for ample clamping time. It's extremely important to have lots of clamping pressure for segmented blanks. For me, super glue just doesn't offer that. I've never tried TiteBond III but I'm sure it offers the same durability as Titebond II. I'm sure thick super works well for most people too. But I still don't think it's as strong as TiteBond II. It's better to be patient and use Titebond II than ruin it with super glue...
 
Again reviewing the gluing of segments here by a search. TBIII is strong plus waterproof. Used it to build custom cork grips for fishing rods. Just need to let it sit to cure and dry. I let grips sit overnight before turning.
 
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