Stars & Stripes Question

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jodoidg

jodoidg

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I know a number of you have built the “Stars & Stripes†pen kit, I’ve seen you pictures! Mine did not look like the finished ones I have seen, mine looks like crap [V]. I took my time and followed the directions to a T. Even reread them several times after to figure out what I did wrong. My stripes do not lay flush with the slots cut in the bottom blank, some do but some don’t. ¾ of the strip will be fine but 1 or 2 swirls are not flush. My stars, my stars, about 80% look good but the rest are not flush on 1,2 or 3 points of the stars. I used watered down yellow glue to soften the wood. Rolled the stripes in with the handle of my knife. I cleaned the star holes with the tip of the knife just to remove the burnt stuff. I installed the stars “clean side†down and mashed them in with the back of the blade. Now that I’m done, I ask for you help :(. What’s the trick [?]
 
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You can assemble them only during the full moon while sitting with your legs crossed, both hands over your head, and facing east [}:)]

Seriously though, did you put a clamp on the outside of each curve in each stripe (after making sure it was fully seated) and let the glue fully cure before removing the clamps?
 
Stan,
Thanks that dose make me feel a little better.
Yes, I even stopped by Harbor Freight and bought some of those little buggers, just like the picture had in the instructions. It was kind of like Mouse Hunt the movie when 1 of those clamps sprung off the "round" barrel they all went flying [:D] made me jump!
 
John,

I don't mean to be mean. But, you do know you have to turn (or sand) it down to round AFTER assembly, don't you?

If it has been glued together and you have a variety of problems, you 80-100 grit sandpaper may be smarter than a turning tool, but one way or another, you have to "turn it round". Take off as little as possible and taper the fitting ends so you don't sand through anything.

In assembly, are you doing one or two stripes at a time (let them dry, then do next two (opposing sides)? I also press the stars in with a slip joint pliers that I have taped the jaws (to avoid leaving deep grooves). Then clamp.

The kit requires great patience-mine usually take about 10 days to glue up, because after 5 stars, I am done for the night!!

And, if there are edges showing, 100 grit is a good first step. If you have some experience and GREAT confidence, a sharp skew taking very light passes will make it truly round-but, lacking great confidence, the kit CAN be produced entirely with sandpaper I would think!!!

Good luck and post the results (PICTURE). That will make it easier to tell you where you goofed (If you ever plan on doing another one)
 
Actually, Ed's question seems pretty valid. That particular kit needs TLC after you're done gluing. All Ken has done is to rough turn the barrels; they need to be properly sized, and the stars/stripes need to be sanded/cut to the appropriate thickness. I used a skew on mine, and was happy with the results. Some times you can't get the stripes or the stars to completely seat (at least that's my experience), but if you're gentle with your turning, you shouldn't have a problem. As long as you have at least 1/2 to 3/4 of the wood in there, and as long as you don't try to take off more wood than you have in the groove, no one will ever know that there's a gap behind the stripe/star!

Don't get disheartened now - you're getting close!
 
Hmmm...if you cannot seat your stripes, I suspect your yellow glue was not thinned suffficiently. When I make these, I make sure the glue is very watery and the stripes are well saturated, then they will compress into the cutouts. I do the stars in similar fashion with watery yellow glue. When everything is good and dry, I seal everything with a coat of thin CA...prior to turning.
 
Originally posted by DCBluesman
<br />Hmmm...if you cannot seat your stripes, I suspect your yellow glue was not thinned suffficiently. When I make these, I make sure the glue is very watery and the stripes are well saturated, then they will compress into the cutouts. I do the stars in similar fashion with watery yellow glue. When everything is good and dry, I seal everything with a coat of thin CA...prior to turning.
Click to expand...

CHICKEN!!!!![:D][:D][:D][:D]



Smart chicken, but chicken.
 
Thanks for the comments. Yes I did finish the pen, turned/sanded my gaps are not behind but are the visible joint lines. Let me try some different questions;
Did you clean the blanks where the laser cut, with knife tip or sandpaper? My blanks had a burnt edge on the stripes and residue in the stars.
The stars have a clean side and a rough side, did this need sanding or should the stars be inserted clean or rough side? I installed mine clean side first knowing the rough would be removed during finishing.
Thanks Again
JD
 
I recall a post a while ago....either here or at Yahoo, can't remember for sure....that said the laser cuts have a slight angle to them and the pieces will fit the "holes" marginally better one way rather than the other. Only problem is that I can't remember which way is the preferred orientation. (I put mine in clean side up and have had no problems.)

You might give Ken a shout(email)....he will certainly know the answer. Might have been a problem with the laser and your kit wasn't cut just exactly right....who knows?? Maybe someone else will have the orientation information in the meantime.
 
wood turning design mag did a article on this pen kit.
it was and still is([;)]) issue #8 winter 06.

if i remember right the laser burnt side goes down into the cutouts first.

check out www.woodturningdesign.com

you might be able to order this copy from them

i have everything needed to make this pen except the courage to.
had the kit for about 6 months now. someday i will break down and make it.
 
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