Stabilizing with Pentacryl

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Woodchipper

Woodchipper

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Cleveland, TN
I have lots of wood that isn't stabilized in any way. Most of it has been dried inside since the earth cooled. However, I do feel that there are advantages to stabilizing. I have a WC store that I patronize quite often. In fact, every month they send me thank you notes. Don't have the $$$ for a vacuum system but want to see if there is an alternative. Thanks in advance.
 
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I have used Minwax's wood hardener before. Do you have an air compressor? You could pick up a venturi generator relatively inexpensively and use a mason jar to make sure you get it to penetrate as much as possible. Or, just let it soak as long as possible I suppose :)

It's not as good as other methods but it DOES improve on soft woods durability a bit.
 
Miniwax Wood hardner is mostly solvents with a low vapor point. Vacuum boils off the solvents rather than pulling much air out of the wood. Soaking and time are what works with wood hardner.

Having used both wood hardner and cactus juice, wood hardner is a very poor substitute with best success with drilling and partial turning of the wood. CA treatment as one turns is a better outcome but is high in hassle.
 
mckenziedrums said:
I have used Minwax's wood hardener before. Do you have an air compressor? You could pick up a venturi generator relatively inexpensively and use a mason jar to make sure you get it to penetrate as much as possible. Or, just let it soak as long as possible I suppose :)

It's not as good as other methods but it DOES improve on soft woods durability a bit.
Click to expand...

I tried soaking a few blanks of maple burl/spalted wood in the Minwax hardener for about a week without vacuum - enough that they no longer floated in the liquid (so it had soaked up a fair bit). I didn't actually notice too much of a difference vs the pieces I had not soaked; still fairly soft and difficult to turn without tearouts.. maybe it just didn't penetrate deep enough into the wood without vacuum. Or maybe I didn't do something correct with it - that's always a possibility!
 
I just read your initial post.. What kind of wood is this? Most wood has no need of stabilization. Though I do enjoy coming up with different dye combinations that I think can best be achieved through stabilization.
 
Pentacryl is for fresh cut wood so that it doesn't check or split from drying too Nothing like stabilizing punky wood.

Personally a lot of wood is being stabilized that doesn't necessarily need it, stabilizing seems to be the new stuff on the "street" and the new "cure" for everything. A lot of dollars being spent for "smoke and mirrors" of the salesman.
 
Some wood is unidentified from the WC per pound bin. Blue pine, pecan, walnut, Bradford pear, carragena (hard to turn due to internal knots) are the main ones.
 
Those are all reasonable woods to learn with. Pine tends to be grabby. Bradford pear can vary from miserable to sweet for turning depending on the tree. Small knots can be handled, but sometimes a sharp small bowl gouge is a good tool to use.

Keep practicing at riding the bevel so that the wood does not know it has been touched.
 
HF has a brake bleeder hand pump for $25 on sale from time to time. It will get you to almost the same vacuum as an AC pump with a bit of effort. And you can use it to bleed your brakes too.


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HF? Thanks. I have a stack of advertising sheets from them. 20% coupons and freebies! I keep a couple of their small tarps on hand- one extra to cover the lawn tractor and one goes fishing with me to cover my gear if it rains.
Where can I get the info for the setup? Will check the library first.
 
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I started with a mason jar. I used a needle valve that is for hooking up water to a refrigerator ice maker and used JB Weld to seal it to the lid. The valve let me pump the vacuum then close the valve to hold it overnight. After several uses just waiting for the glass to implode I made a chamber from pvc pipe.


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