Stabilizing Using Minwax Wood Hardener

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
P

Paladin

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
229
Location
Kenosha, WI
If I want to try stabilizing without spending a lot on the liquid (shipping is expensive) can I just use Minwax Wood Hardener under vacuum? Would that be that same as or similar to "cactus juice" or whatever?

The product description from the Minwax website...

Minwax® High Performance Wood Hardener is a quick-drying liquid formulated to strengthen and reinforce decayed or rotting wood. Minwax® High Performance Wood is made up of solvents that carry resin deep into the pores of the wood where they evaporate and leave behind hardened resin resulting in hardened wood.​

$7.21 per pint at Amazon, free shipping.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I use it on soft maple with good results. It's not the same as a real stabilizer but depending on your needs can work well. I'm not into doing this very much, once or twice a year at best when I have a reason.
 
Save your money if you want to go this route and make your own. Minwax Wood Hardener is basically plexiglass dissolved in acetone. It is not at all similar to a professional grade stabilizing resin but it can do in a pinch. The issue is that it is 72% acetone and 100% of the acetone will evaporate. Whatever you do, don't use it under vacuum if you are at all safety conscious. Acetone will boil very easily under vacuum which causes it to turn to a highly flammable gas which is being exhausted by your vacuum pump. Not sure about you, but I don't like the idea of highly flammable gas coming out of an electric pump! Just let it soak and then let it dry so that the acetone evaporates. Of course you are only going to be left with 22% of the volume of what you got into the wood before it dried. (MWH is 78% volitile)
 
MesquiteMan said:
Save your money if you want to go this route and make your own. Minwax Wood Hardener is basically plexiglass dissolved in acetone. It is not at all similar to a professional grade stabilizing resin but it can do in a pinch. The issue is that it is 72% acetone and 100% of the acetone will evaporate. Whatever you do, don't use it under vacuum if you are at all safety conscious. Acetone will boil very easily under vacuum which causes it to turn to a highly flammable gas which is being exhausted by your vacuum pump. Not sure about you, but I don't like the idea of highly flammable gas coming out of an electric pump! Just let it soak and then let it dry so that the acetone evaporates. Of course you are only going to be left with 22% of the volume of what you got into the wood before it dried. (MWH is 78% volitile)
Click to expand...
As Curtis has said don't use it in your vacuum pump(electric) as the gasses are highly volatile. I did it and it contaminated the oil in my pump. It also drove me out of the shop, I am sure the hand pump would be much safer
Lin
 
Hind sight is 20-20 but this is what I did. I had a mason jar and a vacuum pump and a can of Minwax. I didn't have any trouble doing it and the Minwax helped stabilized the wood. It was also a mess to clean up as far as the jar and spills go. I recieved a bottle of Cactus Juice as a gift and with the same equ. plus a toaster oven I got far better results. The wood was solid and polished up great. C.J. also cleans up with soap and water. I think the equ. is what costs the most, which you have most of, and the liquid is well worth the few extra dollars. As far as me getting by with the Minwax the first time reading all the possible hazzards I wouldn't try it again. Think about what could happen then decide if it's realy worth taking a chance.
 
Kenny Durrant said:
Hind sight is 20-20 but this is what I did. I had a mason jar and a vacuum pump and a can of Minwax. I didn't have any trouble doing it and the Minwax helped stabilized the wood. It was also a mess to clean up as far as the jar and spills go. I recieved a bottle of Cactus Juice as a gift and with the same equ. plus a toaster oven I got far better results. The wood was solid and polished up great. C.J. also cleans up with soap and water. I think the equ. is what costs the most, which you have most of, and the liquid is well worth the few extra dollars. As far as me getting by with the Minwax the first time reading all the possible hazzards I wouldn't try it again. Think about what could happen then decide if it's realy worth taking a chance.
Click to expand...

Thanks Kenny, I think I have decided to just wait until I can put together a "real" system, with Curtis' help, of course. It won't cost that much, it should be worth the wait.
 
Good Luck. I don't think you will be dissapointed. The Minwax will make the fibers stronger but there will be voids in the wood. The C.J. will fill the small voids and that will keep the lines or figure in the wood clearer. I tried some Minwax on some spalted hackberry and it couldn't compete with the clarity and working ability of the C.J. Just in case this is my opinion and not a sales pitch for Curtis although he is a great person to deal with.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom