A while ago my dad told me that a friend of his had some exotic wood that he wanted to give me for making pens. I was a little worried, when I opened the bag and saw these three hefty chunks of what looks to be HRB I was blown away. My only previous experience with HRB is a personal pen that ended up cracking in a bark inclusion spot that I "stabilized" with thin CA. I am worried that the same thing will happen again and I want to make my parents friend a pen that will last. Anyway, long story short, I want to stabilize this rosewood. I know that it isn't really "necessary", I also know that Curtis says to avoid these types of wood with Cactus Juice. But I've heard that can be done. Does anybody have a "DIY" process that has worked? I know that I could send it off to a professional shop - but that's kind of against my religion :biggrin:. I tried to search around, but could only find posts that either said "don't do it" or "I've seen it done", but no explanation of the process. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Stabilizing Rosewood Burl
- Thread starter Dehn0045
- Start date
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hcpens
Member
stabilizing
OK, been stabilizing for a couple years now ..... process is almost always the same, dry to less than 10% if needed, draw a vacuum (@29 Hg) till the bubbles stop or nearly stop & then soak for twice the vacuumed hours or longer...
Woods, I have done with optimal success based on before and after weight readings and turning results:
Maple's & Maple Burl, Manzanita & Manzanita Burl, Buckeye Burl, Box Elder Burl, Black Ash Burl, Black Locust Burl, Cherry Burl, FBE & FBE Burl, Oak's & Oak Burl, Russian Olive Burl, Chechen Burl,
Eucalyptus Burl, Walnut Burl, African Sumac Burl, Rengas (Bolivian Rosewood), Coolibah Burl, PollyAnna Burl, Mallee Burls (Red & Brown), Jarrah Burl, Redwood Burl, Mesquite & Mesquite Burl,
Non-oily woods, (the lighter & more porous the species, the better the results)...
Some woods that I found don't need stabilizing :
Honduran Rosewood Burl, Almost Any Rosewood that's dense, African Blackwood, Gaboon Ebony, Any Ebony, all really dense Oily woods
OK, been stabilizing for a couple years now ..... process is almost always the same, dry to less than 10% if needed, draw a vacuum (@29 Hg) till the bubbles stop or nearly stop & then soak for twice the vacuumed hours or longer...
Woods, I have done with optimal success based on before and after weight readings and turning results:
Maple's & Maple Burl, Manzanita & Manzanita Burl, Buckeye Burl, Box Elder Burl, Black Ash Burl, Black Locust Burl, Cherry Burl, FBE & FBE Burl, Oak's & Oak Burl, Russian Olive Burl, Chechen Burl,
Eucalyptus Burl, Walnut Burl, African Sumac Burl, Rengas (Bolivian Rosewood), Coolibah Burl, PollyAnna Burl, Mallee Burls (Red & Brown), Jarrah Burl, Redwood Burl, Mesquite & Mesquite Burl,
Non-oily woods, (the lighter & more porous the species, the better the results)...
Some woods that I found don't need stabilizing :
Honduran Rosewood Burl, Almost Any Rosewood that's dense, African Blackwood, Gaboon Ebony, Any Ebony, all really dense Oily woods
PatrickR
Member
I'd say yes, what can it hurt. Even if you don't get complete penetration if there are cracks/incursions it should help bind them.
MRDucks2
Member
I would also say to reach out to George at George's Bit of Timber (robutacion) as he has likely worked with and stabilized more wood than most.
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robutacion
Member
Thanks mate, I have my share amount of woods I stabilised, some quite difficult such as the oily woods.
HRB is only, my best advice is to make sure the wood goes into an oven for 48 hours at about 80 Celsius, you need to "crystalise" the natural oils before stabilising, make sure you have the vacuum chamber ready for the wood as soon as it cools down to a warm touch, get it under the CJ before if soaks any moisture in the air.
Good luck
Cheers
George
Thanks for all of the responses guys. I think I might just have to give it a try and report back on my success or failure.
The extra long bake is a good idea that I will incorporate. Also I have considered soaking in DNA to try to eliminate some of the oils. I suspect that it might dull some of the rich colors, but not sure how much...
The extra long bake is a good idea that I will incorporate. Also I have considered soaking in DNA to try to eliminate some of the oils. I suspect that it might dull some of the rich colors, but not sure how much...
I thought the deal with oily woods was that the oil would get into the juice and contaminate it not that it was say going to blow up. 
So if thats the case couldn't you limit the amount of juice used and consider whats left over a cost of doing business?
So if thats the case couldn't you limit the amount of juice used and consider whats left over a cost of doing business?
I thought the deal with oily woods was that the oil would get into the juice and contaminate it not that it was say going to blow up.
So if thats the case couldn't you limit the amount of juice used and consider whats left over a cost of doing business?
Yeah, that is my understanding as well, but I'm not sure if the CJ will remain uncured inside the blank as well... I have considered using a small container or plastic bag to limit the amount of CJ wasted...
MesquiteMan
Retired Head Moderator
I would not stabilize it. It is already hard enough that it does not need stabilizing, IMO. The chance of ruining some expensive resin and wood is not worth the negligible benefit you will get with stabilizing a dense piece of wood.
MRDucks2
Member
That looks sharp. I suggest you send me a piece to try and turn. Once done I'll let you know if I think it needs stabilized or not, free of charge![emoji4]
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