stabilizing blanks

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scottypark

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Sep 21, 2010
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Woodinville
Does anybody have a good reference for stabilizing blanks in the Northwest area. I have some nice woods I would like to stabilize before I turn them.
 
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Hey Scott --- Looking to do the home brew DIY processes or are you looking for commercial outfits to do the work for you? I can read your message either way.
 
Hi Ken. Thank you for responding. I am looking to have someone do it for me unless it is a simple process. I guess I am open to doing it myself as I love to learn new skills, but for now, I would prefer to have an "expert" do it for me.
 
Constant Laubscher does excellent work and is very reasonable in his pricing. You will not be disappointed in the results. Just look at his product line on his website for excellent examples.
 
Thanks all. Good info and links. Has anyone tried CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) by the way? The manufacturer was helpful and mentioned that they have had several orders from pen turners but no feedback. Not sure if it works as well as the acrylic based sealers. It is frequently used for wood rot and to seal softer woods but since it is not done under pressure, it will not penetrate the wood as deep as the pressurized acrylic systems.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html
 
By the way, I have attached a pair that I just made for my family from almond wood. My father grew up on an almond orchard and this has sentimental value for us. I made one for each member of the family and these are from the same tree. Beautiful yet VERY dense wood. It was very resistant to CA and took lots of patience and the thinnest CA I could find before it finally penetrated the grain. Almond pens.jpg
 
scottypark said:
By the way, I have attached a pair that I just made for my family from almond wood. My father grew up on an almond orchard and this has sentimental value for us. I made one for each member of the family and these are from the same tree. Beautiful yet VERY dense wood. It was very resistant to CA and took lots of patience and the thinnest CA I could find before it finally penetrated the grain. View attachment 41476
Click to expand...

Hi scotty,

Those almond trees should have been quite old to produce such a heartwood colouration and grains, I know because I have a "fair" amount of almond wood, most is from trees that were pulled out on the 28th year of plantation, and the same orchard had a few trees that were part of the very first lot of almond trees planted by that family in that location, about 75 years ago and no doubt was a hell of a difference between those 2 woods...!

Yes, almond is very dense and the older the wood is the denser it gets but is extremely pleasant to work with and takes a finish very easily, in fact, sanded up to 600 grit, the back of the sandpaper will burnish enough using friction polish style, the only problem is that the wood would not be protected from stains, dirt and all other sort of stuff, pens get submitted to, particularly when used.

I like to use natural oils to finish almond, the grains just pops up and a couple of oil coats will protect the wood "reasonably" well for some time. If a more durable finish is required, one should remember that most varnishes will not soak into the Almond at all, staying at the surface like a plastic film that can be damage (separation) if the varnish has not elasticity.

I better way to give to Almond wood (particularly old wood) is to use thinner CA as possible and instead on coating the wood in the normal CA finish way, I would suggest to pour the thin CA in the blank while the lathe is turned off and using something to protect you finger (the one rubbing the CA) to spread the CA all over the wood by rotating the shaft wheel, chuck/mandrel (whatever you have) slowly as you spread the glue and don't use accelerator, you need the CA to soak as much as possible into the wood.

Be careful with any excess CA on the lathe base so use some news paper or identical to protect it. While after this soaking coat is dry, a medium CA could be used, I still suggest to continue using the thin CA for any further coats. A LIGHT sanding with 320 or 400 grits will be require after the "finger" coating application to smooth things out, but not sand all the CA off...! gently.:wink:


In regards to wood stabilization, nothing can produce the results of the commercial stabilization equipment and its 5.000 PSI pressures BUT, nothing will stop you to stabilize particularly soft woods using a normal pressure pot.

I get acceptable results by mixing 70% PR resin (clear) and 30% acetone and NO hardener at this stage. Using a 2kg ice cream container you will be able to fit about 15 blanks, raw's of 5 and crossed out, then stir the mix well and pours into the wood (container), put in the pressure pot and apply as much pressure as you pot is FACTORY RECOMMENDED FOR, some are rated a lot higher than others, most are from 60 to 80 PSI, other like mine are rated up to 150PSI so be careful her, the higher pressure the blanks and solution are exposed to, be better the liquid penetrated the wood but and unless you pot is rated for such pressures, removing the safety valve to stop the pot from decompressing at a set pressure will certainly, put you in the right path to have the pot blowing in your face, and you don't want that to happen, believe me, some here will tell you some relevant "stories"...!:eek::mad:

So is all, the decision to have them stabilized by someone that has the right equipment to do it, is certainly the safest way to get you out of troubles, invest money in gear that you will rarely use, and if the blanks are of value, done professionally will give you much better chances/probabilities to actually, have the blank(s) transformed/processed into a pen...!

The ball is in your court, chose wisely...!:biggrin:

Good luck!

Cheers
George
 
Scott:

Constant is an excellent source. However, if my information is correct, his setup is geared more toward a commercial environment. If you are looking to HAVE someone stabilize them for you, this would be an excellent place to go.

If you are looking at setting up a home stabilization system, his equipment and processes might not be exactly what you are hunting.

If my memory serves me correctly, Curtis (mesquiteman) also did some extensive research a while back on setups for the small, home stabilization process.

It might be worth your while to send Curtis a PM as well.

I hope this helps!


OOPS! I read in a later post that you are looking for someone to do it for you.
 
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