Stabilizing blanks with waxed ends

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I believe Gadget has offered you some very sound advice.

Assuming you are - or can use - a vacuum process and have a clear glass jar as your vacuum tank ... If you view the process you can see the stabilization material being pulled into the end grain a heck of a lot faster than the side grain. Gases in the wood are pulled out and when the vacuum is slowly released the material is pulled inside.

Repeated vacuum and release cycles actually pull in more material into the wood. Eventually the entire blank will cease to 'float' and sink to the bottom and you are done. Be sure to pre-drill a size smaller than the tube thus allowing faster absorption of materials. Then when cured you re-drill to the proper size and proceed to turning.
 
Thanks for the advice!

Sounds like a fairly simple solution. I have my pot about ready to go. Just waiting on a vacuum guage to arive and I will be ready to start testing things out.
Gregg
 
You really don't need a gauge to work with the vacuum. I just have one so that I can monitor the presence of the vacuum over a day or two. Just looking at the gauge tells me at a glance as to if the tank is still holding the vacuum or do I need to crank up the vacuum pump again.

Just being able to see what is happening in the glass jars is a great help as it tells me when to switch the vacuum off, wait till things settle down, then back on, and the repeat if necessary.

If you plan on using pressure in a tank - never pressurize a glass jar NEVER - then you can use the limit switch on the air compressor and it's gauge to monitor the pressure you are putting into your tank. Again, you do not need a second gauge. :)
 
Back
Top Bottom