the_benz
Member
What solutions for stabilizing have you used to alter the color of softwoods the least? I have only used Minwax Wood Hardener so far and it is darkening my wood a bit more than I would like.
Thanks, Gregg
Thanks, Gregg
Stabilize Light woods
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Fred
Member
I use Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK) and clean white styrofoam. Dissolve the styrofoam until the MEK can take no more - the dissolving process takes longer and longer, then has little effect.
The solution is a bit thick so I often add a bit more MEK and then place my pre-drilled blanks into the solution, weigh the blanks down to make sure the entire blank is covered.
Then either you can vacuum, or use pressure, or just let it soak for a few days.
Remove the blank and let the MEK flash off - pretty quick I might add.
Re-drill the hole to accept the tubes, mount on lathe and turn.
BE CAREFUL OF THE MEK ... the liquid and the vapors generated are deadly over time. Use the solution in a VERY WELL ventilated area and avoid skin contact with the MEK as it is quite easily absorbed into the flesh of us mortals.
BTW, do not mix dark woods with lighter woods as the MEK will remove some of the surface resins of the dark wood and cause any lighter wood to be come dyed a bit.
Good luck if you try this method...
The solution is a bit thick so I often add a bit more MEK and then place my pre-drilled blanks into the solution, weigh the blanks down to make sure the entire blank is covered.
Then either you can vacuum, or use pressure, or just let it soak for a few days.
Remove the blank and let the MEK flash off - pretty quick I might add.
Re-drill the hole to accept the tubes, mount on lathe and turn.
BE CAREFUL OF THE MEK ... the liquid and the vapors generated are deadly over time. Use the solution in a VERY WELL ventilated area and avoid skin contact with the MEK as it is quite easily absorbed into the flesh of us mortals.
BTW, do not mix dark woods with lighter woods as the MEK will remove some of the surface resins of the dark wood and cause any lighter wood to be come dyed a bit.
Good luck if you try this method...
How about just using a good heap of CA? Seems a good bit less dangerous!
Andrew
Andrew
Russianwolf
Member
not sure how it will effect the wood as I haven't done it myself yet, but Acetone and Plexyglass are often used also and don't sound nearly as harsh. LOML gets her hands dipped in acetone at least once a month.
I wash my hands with acetone after using CA...always tend to get it on my hands, and the acetone takes it off...
dries them out, but doesn't seem too harsh!
Andrew
dries them out, but doesn't seem too harsh!
Andrew
the_benz
Member
Water based Poly??
Has anyone tried water based Poly? I use it for all my chessboards to not darken the light squares and pieces. Curious if you think it would work. I have seen other post with folks thinning oil based poly.
Thanks, Gregg
Has anyone tried water based Poly? I use it for all my chessboards to not darken the light squares and pieces. Curious if you think it would work. I have seen other post with folks thinning oil based poly.
Thanks, Gregg
I would think that poly would tend to yellow a white blank, wouldn't it Gregg?
leehljp
Member Liaison
I haven't tried water based poly yet, but I have thought about it. I did use regular (oil based) poly and it did fine on darker woods but yellowed a couple of holly blanks. It didn't ruin them, made them look like old ivory.
Acetone and acrylic will leach some of the color out of dark woods. I did a few bloodwood just to try it and the remainder of the solution was dark red while the bloodwood blanks looked a little bland as compared to unstabilized bloodwood.
On light colored woods I use acrylic and acetone. If I were in the states and could get a can of MEK, I would go that route. The next time I try to stabilize some I am going to try two others - the water based poly and some clear lacquer.
For medium to dark woods, I still use oil based poly.
Acetone and acrylic will leach some of the color out of dark woods. I did a few bloodwood just to try it and the remainder of the solution was dark red while the bloodwood blanks looked a little bland as compared to unstabilized bloodwood.
On light colored woods I use acrylic and acetone. If I were in the states and could get a can of MEK, I would go that route. The next time I try to stabilize some I am going to try two others - the water based poly and some clear lacquer.
For medium to dark woods, I still use oil based poly.
the_benz
Member
Thanks for the replys
Thanks for the replys. I think I am heading to my Rockler to try some water based poly. They are going out of business and everything is 50 - 75% off. What would you use to thin the water based poly? More water?
Thanks for the replys. I think I am heading to my Rockler to try some water based poly. They are going out of business and everything is 50 - 75% off. What would you use to thin the water based poly? More water?