Squaring blanks before segmenting

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Painfullyslow

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So now that I am getting a little bit more familiar with basic segmenting I have come to realize how critically important it is to have true and square blanks.

How are you fine folks (with tons more experience than I have) accomplishing this?
 
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Just for your information: Squaring the blanks are not required in all segment types but in most.
If you drill the segmented pieces first and assembly the pieces on the tube, squaring is not necessary. There may be another type or two that don't require squaring. BUT there are some that absolutely need squaring, OR finding the center on one end, and then on the other end and drill from one to the other.

Michael, I appreciate your questions. You ask the right ones, are very clear with them, and are moving in the right direction! I wish I was as clear when I started. I am not even clear with my questions now! 🙄 😀
 
Whenever I do anything where 2 pieces meet together I hit them on my belt sander and then double check to make sure there are no gaps and such. Same with squaring the blank, I'll sand it square if it needs a little help. But after seeing some of the blanks made here I am barely at a beginner level.
 
Cut on a tablesaw and if I am matching two sides together I will sand with a 220 grit piece of sandpaper adhered to a sheet of glass or I have a ceramic tile piece. Example is when I made this blank.

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This simple sled gets the most work in my shop of all the sleds I ever made. Just a simple platform with a fence. I use clamps and I use doublesided tape to cut all size blanks and pieces that require straight cuts with it. A tablesaw can sing for you when you make jigs to help with cuts. There are so many videos out there to help build jigs and devices that will make things safer and more accurate and you really do not have to spend alot of money. The key is to know how to tune your tools and build the devices to that machine. Recently I seen a jig for a drill press that I will be making in the future and it is so simple but the practicality of it is something I wish I thought of. Just need to find the time but it is on my sure to do list. Can not tell you how many jigs I have made over the years. This pool table pen box I made for a bash contest alone had many different jigs to cut on tablesaw as well as router table to accomplish it. The pieces were so small and safety was a key but my mind just flowed when I did this and it fell into place. You need to think outside the box.
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leehljp said:
Just for your information: Squaring the blanks are not required in all segment types but in most.
If you drill the segmented pieces first and assembly the pieces on the tube, squaring is not necessary. There may be another type or two that don't require squaring. BUT there are some that absolutely need squaring, OR finding the center on one end, and then on the other end and drill from one to the other.

Michael, I appreciate your questions. You ask the right ones, are very clear with them, and are moving in the right direction! I wish I was as clear when I started. I am not even clear with my questions now! 🙄 😀
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Thank you!

I am still learning which blanks I can 'get away' without being square, typically the simple 90 degree segments. I am trying to learn to do a lot more angles which as far as I know, must be drilled after the blank is completed.


Joebobber said:
Whenever I do anything where 2 pieces meet together I hit them on my belt sander and then double check to make sure there are no gaps and such. Same with squaring the blank, I'll sand it square if it needs a little help. But after seeing some of the blanks made here I am barely at a beginner level.
Click to expand...
Thanks Joe. This is what I do as well but a lot of the time I will be mating up a 1" wood blank with a 3/4" acrylic which requires a lot of sanding to even out...which means more heat, which means more adhesion failures. I need to be better about cutting blanks down to the same size before I start segmenting.

I think a lot of my issues are that I am still figuring out the process/flow of how I want things to go.



jttheclockman said:
Cut on a tablesaw and if I am matching two sides together I will sand with a 220 grit piece of sandpaper adhered to a sheet of glass or I have a ceramic tile piece. Example is when I made this blank.

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Beautiful work as always, and I appreciate the info.

Sadly my table saw is not up to par. It's a jobsite saw that is older and doesn't even have slots which allow me to use a sled. Time to start looking for yet another upgraded piece of equipment... This 'hobby' is turning out (pun intended) to be quite the money sink.
 
Painfullyslow said:
Thank you!

I am still learning which blanks I can 'get away' without being square, typically the simple 90 degree segments. I am trying to learn to do a lot more angles which as far as I know, must be drilled after the blank is completed.



Thanks Joe. This is what I do as well but a lot of the time I will be mating up a 1" wood blank with a 3/4" acrylic which requires a lot of sanding to even out...which means more heat, which means more adhesion failures. I need to be better about cutting blanks down to the same size before I start segmenting.

I think a lot of my issues are that I am still figuring out the process/flow of how I want things to go.




Beautiful work as always, and I appreciate the info.

Sadly my table saw is not up to par. It's a jobsite saw that is older and doesn't even have slots which allow me to use a sled. Time to start looking for yet another upgraded piece of equipment... This 'hobby' is turning out (pun intended) to be quite the money sink.
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The old adage if there is a will there is a way. I have never seen a tablesaw of any kind that does not have miter slots unless it was a home made top. Anyway a way around that is to still make a sled with cleats on the bottom to ride against the 2 sides of the top. Now the sled is locked in from racking by the sides. Make them longer than the panel. Good luck.
 
jttheclockman said:
The old adage if there is a will there is a way. I have never seen a tablesaw of any kind that does not have miter slots unless it was a home made top. Anyway a way around that is to still make a sled with cleats on the bottom to ride against the 2 sides of the top. Now the sled is locked in from racking by the sides. Make them longer than the panel. Good luck.
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I've got a Ryobi BT 3000 which doesn't have miter slots. I think Sears also sold it with their own brand. It has a sliding miter table which can be moved along the rails or moved to either side of the blade. Unfortunately you have to fiddle with it regularly to keep it square to the blade. And jigs usually are designed to run in a miter slot.
 
SteveJ said:
I've got a Ryobi BT 3000 which doesn't have miter slots. I think Sears also sold it with their own brand. It has a sliding miter table which can be moved along the rails or moved to either side of the blade. Unfortunately you have to fiddle with it regularly to keep it square to the blade. And jigs usually are designed to run in a miter slot.
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That is the exact model that I have. It's been ok for what I have needed it for but now it falls very short.
 
jttheclockman said:
https://bestpowersaws.com/ryobi-bt3000-table-saw-review/

Well I stand behind my statement I never seen one and there is always a way to make sleds to fit the tool you do have. As I said use the sides of the table as your miter slot or so called guide. just my suggestion. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
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Haha, I completely understand. That was a very bottom end saw that I bought many, many years ago for regular construction type work. I knew even less about working with wood then than I do now, if you can believe that :D.

And yes, I could make a sled with runners to go along the edge of the saw but I think that machine has seen its day. There is some play in the blade and the rip fence is very inaccurate. All in all, I think it is just time to replace it with something that better suits my current needs.
 
If you have the time, this is an option.
1. Drill the first segment and glue to the tube.
2. Round the part (Material) with a length of the tube exposed.
3. Use a parting tool to make a clean square shoulder.
4. Drill next segment and make sure it is smooth
5. Glue next segment on
6. Rinse and repeat
 
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