Some questions about Alumilite

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RAdams

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I have been casting with PR for some time now (7 gallons worth). I have recently started to mess with worthless wood and kitless pens. I understand that Alum. is better for these things than PR. But what do i need to do to change?

Will my mica still work to color alumilite? If not, what do i need to get? I am going to the library to see what i can dig up on the switcheroo. anybody with experience, feel free to help me out!
 
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Also what kind of molds work best? I have one silicone homemade mold but it isnt the greatest. I like the PVC pipe molds ALOT.
 
Alumilite will work with all the mica powders but make sure you use the alumilite dyes , nothing with any water in it or you will get a foamy mess . Alumilite don't shrink like PR so the PVC pipes will give you a problem getting your blanks out , silicone molds are recommended or the screwed together cutting board molds like Curtis uses .
Make sure that any wood you use is very dry again because Alumilite don't like water . Heck I can't cast with it around here during very damp or high humidity days .
 
I never have problems with alumilite and humidity all year long here in Michigan and it does get hot and humid in the summer. I use mica's, pearls and oil based paints. You can still use PVC pipes, but you might need a mold release, otherwise a strong couple wacks on the floor should set it free. There is not much you need to change. You can pour it in a silicone mold no problem. The only thing you might not already have is a scale, the alumlite needs to be weighed 50/50 by weight is the mix for A and B. The demold time is 1-2 hrs depending on the thickness of the pour and the temperature of the air and product. In the winter my shop might get down to 50 at night, so the alumilite is chilled, and so I let it stay in the pot for 1.5 hrs before I remove it. In maybe 6 hrs from the time you pour it, you can technically make a pen, but I would prefer to give it 24 hrs to cure. I just purchase oil based paint by the quart, and sometimes you can get smaller cans...Ace hardware sells the tiny can's for $5 with about a dozen color choices, or you can get a pint or quart whatever the next size up can is at a paint store in any color you want. Alumilite dye is translucent. Paint is opaque. Pearl ex is translucent. Mix paint with pearl and you will get less pearl, more like a sparkle, but if you can use pearl and just a bit of paint to reduce the translucence while maintaining the pearl effect. You do have time restraints. You need to have everything ready to go, because the alumilite sets up fast..again depends on the ambiant temp of the product. In the summer that stuff can gel up in 4 minutes or so, maybe it's less than that, and you have to make sure it is well mixed, so you have to work fast if you are doing a multi color pour. If you pour half a mold and run out of product, so then you come back and pour out the rest later..the alumilite won't stick to itself very well. It will seem like it is stuck together, but you drill it and it will break at the seam.
 
I live a half a block away from the Ocean and a dry day here is 70% humidity and a damp day is full saturation 100% humidity . I have had my share of foamy blanks and have had Alumilite go bad in the can from the moisture in the air . The problem is when it is very humid the pigments can pick up some of that moisture . YMMV depending on where you live .
 
where is the best place ot get the stuff? So i still bake it? I tried to find some write up on it but got lost in 12 pages of results.
 
The best place to get it is direct from Alumilite. Also, I have to disagree with Jeff on the demold time. I demold everything in about 30 minutes, regardless of temperature. I also only leave my stuff in the pressure pot for 15 minutes before I take it out. I then let it cool down and demold it. Never had any kind of problem with this timeline.
 
Thanks Curtis! what is the cure time before you can use it, If you don't mind me asking!
 
Could it be that people use dfferent versions of alumilite, which have different pot times and demold times? I just noticed on their site that hte clear has different times than the crystal clear.


Which leads me to my next question. Which Alumilite is it that everybody uses? There are several choices.
 
It says on the can 45 min-90 min for demold time and that it varies due to temperature or product and thickness of pour. I don't live in Texas, just like I don't live beside the ocean. If I pull a mold out in 30 minutes, the product is still hot and slightly soft, and after only a couple minutes out of the pot, the compressed bubbles in the blank start expanding themselves out making the blank look like it is starting to blow bubbles. Alumilite is only 40 miles west of me or, same climate, same temps, same altitude, and they experience the same thing. It must have something to do with where we are as to how the product performs. I use Crystal Clear Ron. And you do not bake it.
 
I use every version of Alumilite and I do not leave any of them in the pot for more than 15 minutes. Demold...I wait until they have cooled down. When the first come out of the pot, they frequently have surface temps of 165 F according to my infrared thermometer!

As for turning...I would give it 3 or 4 hours minimum. The longer you wait, the better luck you will have.

I think most use Alumilite Crystal Clear since it polishes just about as good as PR and has a little more open time. If you want to give me a call on Sunday afternoon some time, I would be happy to walk you through the complete process so you will have better results starting out. 512-738-0775
 
Jeff, there is a difference between demold time and de-pressure time no matter where you are located. You are correct that if you demold at 30 minutes it will still be hot and still a little soft. That does not mean you need to keep it under pressure until it is completely cool. This information comes from my experience and has been verified by Mike, the VP of Alumilite right there in Michigan! :)
 
I will indeed give you a call this afternoon! I appreciate all the help i can get!!
 
Jeff, there is a difference between demold time and de-pressure time no matter where you are located. You are correct that if you demold at 30 minutes it will still be hot and still a little soft. That does not mean you need to keep it under pressure until it is completely cool. This information comes from my experience and has been verified by Mike, the VP of Alumilite right there in Michigan! :)

I understand your expert experience Curtis, but then maybe you can explain why if I take it out in 30 minutes and it is still a little soft, then 10 minutes later I look at the blanks and there is big bubbles protruding out all directions of the blanks, like someone is inside the blank blowing bubbles. If I leave it in for an hour, which is probably a bit overkill, but no bubbles pop out the side of the blank for sure when I do that. I can take a pin and pop the bubbles in the blank when it does that, and it's not moisture bubbles, I don't make foamy blanks. I keep thinking too, they recommend 1-2 hrs and wondered where I get that from..well that's what it is saying on the 5 gallon drum. I don't leave it in till it's cooled down, I just leave it in at least an hour to be safe, because if the blank starts blowing bubbles, then it's going to have voids in it which is trash. Having spoken with Mike face to face several times myself, he says if the blank is blowing bubbles after 30 min, leave it in a little longer because that means the blank is just a bit too soft to withstand the de-compression of the micro bubbles in the blank. If you have some other solution where I can take them out in 15 min and not have them bubble out on me, I'm all ears, because I could pour more blanks faster..time is money...and air bubbles will lose me more money than time.
 
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