Snakeskin Cleaning

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Why do you want them all off? I cast snakeskin blanks and only remove the loose scales, not all of them.
 
Well, im not sure if they are the actual scales but instead the clear film that is on each scale. It seems to me they hide the true colors of the scales and are just easier to work with so i dont have to worry about them floating up when i cast them...

Padre said:
Why do you want them all off? I cast snakeskin blanks and only remove the loose scales, not all of them.
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I usually have pretty good luck with an air hose. Blows 90% of the scales right off, cleans up any residual preservative powder, and makes it less likely that you will get bubbles in the resin from what I understand.
 
The clear scale covers trap air and the blanks are somewhat useless when that happens. If it hasn't happened to you it will....just when you don't have time for it to happen. I remove all of the clear scale flaps of covers or what ever they are called. It's just one more step to help insure successful blanks.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Padre said:
Why do you want them all off? I cast snakeskin blanks and only remove the loose scales, not all of them.
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Don,
Thanks for the tips/advice on this. I just got a skin in yesterday from a member here on IAP and have my RS molds raring to go. I too was also hesitant about what to do as far as leaving the scales on or brushing them off. A buddy of mine has a copperhead that he's had in alcohol/glycerin for a few days and will also be ready to cast soon. I do have one concern or question though: what glue have you found out that works best? I've heard CA, Elmers, epoxy, modpodge, etc.
Thanks
Dale
 
I haven't cast as many as Don, but I have had good luck gluing the skin to the roughed up tubes with Thick EZ Bond CA the good stuff from Mannie!!
And I just finished skinning one Copperhead with the best colors I've ever seen, just put him in the Glycerin/Alcohol mix in the fridge.
 
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Be sure to clean the glycerin from the skins. I wipe them with a soft cloth and do the best I can to remove the glycerin. Glycerin causes problems with polyester resin.

I either coat the skins with a layer of CA and allow it to totally dry and cure for a couple of days prior to casting. Or, I coat the skins with catalyzed poly resin and allow that to cure for a day or two. I no longer use mod podge on the outside of the skins. I have had issues with mod podge turning milky when I coated skins and other materials with mod podge prior to casting. I still use it go glue stamps and shredded $$$$ to the tubes.

I paint the tubes with ultra flat camo green paint when casting the prairie rattle snake skins. Otherwise, the brass tubes will show through between the scales. If I were to do other species I would choose the appropriate color to go with the skin color....and use flat paint.

I use medium CA to glue the skins to the tubes. I have used several brands and have had no issues with any of them.

There is an article on my website about casting snake skins. It is a little outdated but you can see how I glue the skins. Check the articles sections at http://www.RedRiverPens.com/articles Also check the bubbles free casting article in the IAP library.


Happy casting.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

PennedDown said:
Don,
Thanks for the tips/advice on this. I just got a skin in yesterday from a member here on IAP and have my RS molds raring to go. I too was also hesitant about what to do as far as leaving the scales on or brushing them off. A buddy of mine has a copperhead that he's had in alcohol/glycerin for a few days and will also be ready to cast soon. I do have one concern or question though: what glue have you found out that works best? I've heard CA, Elmers, epoxy, modpodge, etc.
Thanks
Dale
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Don,

Just thought I'd let you see my first attempt at the snakeskin casting. I got the copperhead from my buddy, and made sure it was nice and clean with some denatured alcohol before gluing to the tube. I also let it and the Prairie RS set for a few days to make sure no moisture and/or gases from the CA were present. The only handy paint I had was flat black, but I'm going to try the copperhead again this weekend with a khaki camo paint I picked up yesterday. I think that will really make those colors pop!
Just wanted to say "Thanks" for sharing your knowledge on this. I'm hooked!
Dale
 

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Dale,
You are welcome. I'm glad your blanks came out. They look very nice. Be sure to show the pens whrn they are completed.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

PennedDown said:
Don,

Just thought I'd let you see my first attempt at the snakeskin casting. I got the copperhead from my buddy, and made sure it was nice and clean with some denatured alcohol before gluing to the tube. I also let it and the Prairie RS set for a few days to make sure no moisture and/or gases from the CA were present. The only handy paint I had was flat black, but I'm going to try the copperhead again this weekend with a khaki camo paint I picked up yesterday. I think that will really make those colors pop!
Just wanted to say "Thanks" for sharing your knowledge on this. I'm hooked!
Dale
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Don, I also want to say thanks for sharing your knowledge on snakeskin casting with us, I've sold 4 out of the first five I've made, I can't wait to see what this copperhead will look like, it has the most beautiful bright copper color I've seen.
 
Going to turn the copperhead this weekend, and I too can't wait to see how it turns out. Any preference from you guys as to what plating on the sierra would look good? I have some standard Sierras with gold and then several Sierra Elegants with either chrome/satin or satin/chrome. I also thought about ordering a black titanium to go with these. Suggestions are welcome.
 
Don,

Well here are the results of my first "snake charming". Probably not a great job, but I'm pleased for it being a virgin run. I do know that once I face/square the blanks, I'm going to drizzle thin CA around the edge of the tube to keep the PR dust from migrating underneath. Also, the copperhead blank that I had casted for the Sierra blew apart, so I cast one for the bottom of the cigar pen and matched it with some nice native Texas mesquite and satin copper (head) hardware...it's all Texas! Let me know what your thoughts/comments/critique are.
 

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Well Dale....you are hooked. It is fun, isn't it? Your pens look really nice from what I can see. I never know what wood to use when doing half skin half wood but you seem to have made a match with the copperhead and mesquite. Keep up the good work and I hope the snake skin casting demons don't find your shop.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
PennedDown said:
Don,

Well here are the results of my first "snake charming". Probably not a great job, but I'm pleased for it being a virgin run. I do know that once I face/square the blanks, I'm going to drizzle thin CA around the edge of the tube to keep the PR dust from migrating underneath. Also, the copperhead blank that I had casted for the Sierra blew apart, so I cast one for the bottom of the cigar pen and matched it with some nice native Texas mesquite and satin copper (head) hardware...it's all Texas! Let me know what your thoughts/comments/critique are.
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