snake skin casting help?
- Thread starter joernundsimba
- Start date
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el_d
Member
I cant help with the silver scales, I have the same problem, but if the skin turned darker it could possibly be the heat generated form too many drops of catalyst. Ther are far better snake casters that will probably chime in........Don?......
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
Don has provided an 11 page tutorial:
In the library, under snakeskin blanks - I would provide a link, but my
computer won't let me.
There are too many possible ways to screw up. Not knowing what you DID, there is no way to say what you DID NOT. Follow the eleven pages and you are doing the same thing that has worked (AND NOT WORKED) for others. Then, you have to experiment. There IS a loss factor, even for the most experienced casters.
Good luck.
In the library, under snakeskin blanks - I would provide a link, but my
computer won't let me.
There are too many possible ways to screw up. Not knowing what you DID, there is no way to say what you DID NOT. Follow the eleven pages and you are doing the same thing that has worked (AND NOT WORKED) for others. Then, you have to experiment. There IS a loss factor, even for the most experienced casters.
Good luck.
baker4456
Member
Did you skin the snake and try to use a tanning solution on it? That could have had a reaction in the resin. The scales tend to flake up if the skin is too dry when it is cast. I skin my snakes, try to get the extra fat and flesh off the back side, stretch them a little then let them dry for a day or two depending on the temperature. Use the skin right away while it is plyable. You will still get some loss. Most of the time the loss I have is cracking during curing or getting it too hot during sanding. Hope I helped
its_virgil
Member
Dark casting: This is probably because of the chemistry in the tanning solution used. I have cast several skins that turned so dark I could not see any pattern in the skin. I can't tell you what tanning solution to use or not use. I cast snake skins cured with alcohol and glycerin and they work excellently as far as the darkness goes. The curing mix does not interfer with the casting.
Sliver spots: The silvery spots may be caused by more than one factor. I think the most prominent one is that the resin did not stick to the skin and air between the skin and resin yields the sliver look. I would be lying if I said it doesn't happen to me...it does... along with several other failure problems. but they are getting fewer and fewer. Try cleaning the skins with isopropyl alcohol prior to casting. Let them dry. If using CA to glue the skins to the tubes then give the glue a day or so to completely dry and outgas. Paint raw resin onto the skin just prior to casting. Allow time for the resin to soak into the skins and displace any air that is in the skin. Remove the scales from the skins.
If you read my tutorial be advised that I no longer use vacuum. I now use an ultrasonic cleaner to help remove air from the resin. I need to update the tutorial to include the changes I've made since it was written. some searching of the archives will yield you several days of reading on ultrasonic cleaners, vacuum, pressure, and several other snake skin casting techniques. Good luck. The rewards are...well, beautiful pens.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Sliver spots: The silvery spots may be caused by more than one factor. I think the most prominent one is that the resin did not stick to the skin and air between the skin and resin yields the sliver look. I would be lying if I said it doesn't happen to me...it does... along with several other failure problems. but they are getting fewer and fewer. Try cleaning the skins with isopropyl alcohol prior to casting. Let them dry. If using CA to glue the skins to the tubes then give the glue a day or so to completely dry and outgas. Paint raw resin onto the skin just prior to casting. Allow time for the resin to soak into the skins and displace any air that is in the skin. Remove the scales from the skins.
If you read my tutorial be advised that I no longer use vacuum. I now use an ultrasonic cleaner to help remove air from the resin. I need to update the tutorial to include the changes I've made since it was written. some searching of the archives will yield you several days of reading on ultrasonic cleaners, vacuum, pressure, and several other snake skin casting techniques. Good luck. The rewards are...well, beautiful pens.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
joernundsimba
Member
It was tanned and processed snake skin.
Could it be that it only works with snake untanned skin.
Or with the snake skin change over the remains.
http://www.tierpraeparator.de/Produ...d/2378/GroupId/51/language/de-DE/Default.aspx
Could it be that it only works with snake untanned skin.
Or with the snake skin change over the remains.
http://www.tierpraeparator.de/Produ...d/2378/GroupId/51/language/de-DE/Default.aspx
its_virgil
Member
So are the ones I use along with others here who cast skins. There are several ways to tan snake skins using different chemicals. I know nothing about the chemicals used in tanning solutions but the skins I use work REALLY WELL and are tanned with an alcohol and glycerin mix. They are very very soft. As I said, I've purchased skins from various places and some just don't do well with polyester resin...it could be the heat causing the chemicals used to darken the skin. I do wish you luck...we are here to help and I do hope we have been helpful. Maybe you could find out more about how your skins were tanned.
do a good turn daily!
Don'
do a good turn daily!
Don'