Skew on synthetic materails?

[Woodchipper]

I recall in the distant past where it was said a good skew application results in a finish that needs little or no sanding. Does that work on synthetics as acrylic or alumilite?

 

[jttheclockman]

Yes to all

 

[JohnU]

Yep, I usually rough turn with a negative rake carbide and then finish with a skew. Always leaves a nice smooth surface on resin and acrylics.

 

[its_virgil]

Skew on all materials from beginning to end.

 

[Woodchipper]

Thanks to all. Need to brush up on my skew skills.

 

[Hartwell85]

How do you keep the skew chisel from hitting the bushings? I have used the skew chisel on a few blanks and avoided hitting the bushings sometimes and sometimes hitting or slightly nicking the bushings.

 

[its_virgil]

I turn the blank really really close to the bushings but still proud of them. I remove the bushings, mount the blank between live and dead center and complete the turning using calipers and the pen parts from the kit I am making.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[Woodchipper]

Thanks, Don. Good idea and another thing to work on, TBC.

 

[jttheclockman]

How do you keep the skew chisel from hitting the bushings? I have used the skew chisel on a few blanks and avoided hitting the bushings sometimes and sometimes hitting or slightly nicking the bushings.

I have mentioned this before on this forum and probably does not go over too well but I will once again give my thoughts and findings. Bushings are a guide. They are not the holy grail of pen blank sizing. I hit the bushings all the time and in fact I purposely do it to get them just below the needed measurement. I build my pens with calipers at all times. Never ever do I rely on bushings for final measurements. I am a stickler for nice smooth transition from components to blank. That is me. This is another reason in my mind a set of bushings never wear out. I have bushings I use on some pens that as old as the day I started some 15 years ago. So no big deal if you hit bushings. Yes it require resharpening skew but so what no big deal. I only take my blank off mandrel after I get ready to finish and then turn that between centers.

 

[SabertoothBunny]

The skew is a valuable tool and loved by many. I rarely use them personally.

 

[Woodchipper]

I started to watch a video by Ed Brown about TBC. Just a few seconds into the video, I trotted to the shop and realized I had a "dead" center that I bought. I'm on my way!
Edit: JohnT, why not just turn with calipers and skip the bushings? Seems like a time consumer to change out or am I missing something? Ed's video started with TBC.

 

[jttheclockman]

I started to watch a video by Ed Brown about TBC. Just a few seconds into the video, I trotted to the shop and realized I had a "dead" center that I bought. I'm on my way!
Edit: JohnT, why not just turn with calipers and skip the bushings? Seems like a time consumer to change out or am I missing something? Ed's video started with TBC.

Time consuming? To me pen turning there is NO SUCH thing as time consuming. I am not going anywhere. I do not make pens in lots of many (leave that to the more ambitious people), I make basically one of a kind pens. I do not sell my pens for peanuts. I put value in my work. I have the exact same approach in my scrollsaw work. Maybe that is where I got my patients from.

I do not like to turn between centers because no matter how well you align your blank between the live center and dead center it is possible to have it cantered. When finishing it does not matter but when turning especially segmented blanks they need to spin on center. Maybe it is just me but I have seen it. If you use TBC bushings you will have a better chance of spinning on center. Not a fan of TBC for turning blank down. Never had a problem with bushings. But I do finish between centers. I have been using the same PSI mandrel for 15 years now and it is as straight as the day I bought it. I am a fan of mandrel turning.

 

[Bope]

I turn my pens like John. The bushings are a fast guide to know when you are getting close enough to use calipers.

 

[Woodchipper]

JohnT. and Bope, well said. JT, I understand what you are saying. Quality can't be rushed. I'm looking at doing a couple of pens at a time...drilling on the lathe, then turning them and assembling. I counted three sets of bushing for Slimline pens. So...I should be good for a while.

 

[leehljp]

Skews are great as mentioned, however a very sharp scraper with a somewhat radiused end, or a radiused carbide insert on hard wood, stabilized wood along with metal segments will work just as well as a skew. No sanding needed and this works especially when using brass or aluminum as a separator, and where the metallic dust will contaminate the wood.

EDIT IN: One thing not mentioned concerning using the tools - skew, scraper or carbide insert - to get smooth so that no sanding is needed: If using CA or other built up finish on segmented blanks where the segment are different colored woods, or hybrid or metallic rings as separators - Once a build up of CA or other finish, one might sand the CA/other finish to smooth and polish it. HOWEVER do not sand through the finish down to the wood. Doing so will cause smearing of the metallic dust or smearing of the wood colors and the advantage of "no sanding" is lost.

If using oil finishes, then the problem is moot. Just do not sand after applying an oil finish, or the advantage of "no sanding" is lost as smearing takes place.

 

[Woodchipper]

Lee, thanks for the edit.

 

[Hartwell85]

I turn the blank really really close to the bushings but still proud of them. I remove the bushings, mount the blank between live and dead center and complete the turning using calipers and the pen parts from the kit I am making.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Good advice. I'll practice this on the next pen.