SILMAR 41

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B727phixer

B727phixer

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Joined
Jan 25, 2008
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727
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Phoenix, Arizona
I need some help from other users of this product. We have attempted to use it twice with very poor results. In the past when mixing the resin from michaels and art stuff the wally world clear cups held up fine. Now using the silmar 41 it ate through the cup before I added catalyst. Also on the first cast the resin did not set up on one mold for almost 3 days, we are using pigment from art stuff the Ultramarine Blue pigment was the one that was very slow to set Attempted to create blue and white swirl pattern in resin but the result was a solid blue. I have used this technique several other times and have never had any problems with the swirl effect. This cast was placed in the kiln for 2 days under a light bulb before it cooked off. I used approximately 16 drops of cataylst for 2 of the four pockets on one of Gadgets 3/4 molds. Any help would be very much appreciated.
 
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Jim, The problem sounds like it's the colorant, I use Powder Coating powder for my solid colors and unless I get carried away, mine will set up with in 8 to 10 hours, and that using about 1/4 tsp of powder and 5 to 7 drops of MEKP per ounce of resin, try using less pigment.As far as eating through the cup, I don't know what to tell you, I use the 10 oz hard plastic Highball glasses to measure then mix the stuff in some ziplock storage containers they have some that are graduated and hold 16 OZ they will stand a cleanup with Acetone and are only a couple bucks for three at the place where America shops, (and china profits)
I get my Silmar from Mr. Fiberglass, I think his price is better than Artstuf, also there is a great tutorial on the IAP home page
 
TJ Turner and I are working on this project together. This is the first batch of resin that we have ever ordered from USComposits. Our other resins have come from Artstuf and Michaels. The MEKp on the first batch was less than one month old and that second batch came with the resin one week ago.[B)]
 
FWIW, I use the clear Ziplock/Glad storage containers that are like cheapy tupperware kind of stuff, and it works great. There's a bunch of different sizes, and you can make permanent measurement marks on the outside. I usually mix in them a couple of times and then set them aside to let the resin harden. Once it's hard, I just peel it out and go again. I've done hundreds of castings with some of them, and they never stick or wear through.

The bigger ones are nice to mix larger amounts in for color and pearl, and then you can put the lid on and use them when you need them. :)
 
Something I learned at this years gathering... when it comes to the mixing cups... "if it ain't clear dont use it!" Ive used the red plastic cups from walmart and had them melt on me too.
 
Originally posted by JohnU

Something I learned at this years gathering... when it comes to the mixing cups... "if it ain't clear dont use it!" Ive used the red plastic cups from walmart and had them melt on me too.
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I have a small digital scale and mix our PR by weight so with that you can use a clear or colored mixing cup it doesn’t matter :)
 
THE ANSWER------Ultramarine Blue Pigment form artstuf and the resin from USComposits do not get along. Yesterday we poured so other casting with different colors no problem, we used the blue again and the same thing happened. :( I so bluuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuue
 
I use Silmar 41 and I have that same color powder from Artstuf and have encountered the very same problem. I don't get colors from Artstuf anymore. after I tried the Pearlex I was hooked. The pearlex doesn't seem to take near as much as the other powders. I use about 3/8 tsp. for a 6 ounce pour and get great coloring.

Ditch the Ultramarine!!

Steve

Originally posted by Mather323

THE ANSWER------Ultramarine Blue Pigment form artstuf and the resin from USComposits do not get along. Yesterday we poured so other casting with different colors no problem, we used the blue again and the same thing happened. :( I so blueeeeeeeeee
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Originally posted by Mather323

I would like to thank everyone that posted for your time and advice I think we have the problem solved.[:p][:p][:p];)Anybody want some ultramarine blue? LOL![xx(][xx(]
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Have you tried slightly heating the ultramarine blue, to drive off any moisture that may have gotten into it? It could be mildly hydroscopic enough to cause cure inhibition.
 
Originally posted by Mather323

I will have to give that a try thanks, waist not want not. Do you think puting it in the light bulb kiln would be a good place to heat it? [^]
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If that will take it up to 100-125deg F or so and hold there to saturate it with heat for long enough to dry your sample, it should work fine(just remember to seal it and let it cool before using). I am a firm believer in whatever gets the job done. Right now I am post-curing some silicone molds in the car cause the cabin of the car is hot and I am not going to be driving it for a few hours.
 
Hy Everybody
I use the ultramarine blue from coastal supply and have had no problem with curing .
This stuff is cosmetic grade so it might be a different type of pigment .
I cast a blank early this morning and it was cured by 3 pm .
 
This may be posted elsewhere, but where's the best deal on Silmar 41? Also, I'm going to try to use the new Resin Saver's I bought from Charlie, but have a question for anyone who's used them:

Do I color the resin separately and then pour them into the mold and add catalyst there, or pour into a third cup and add catalyst then pour into the mold? That way seems to make the most sense, but it also seems likt this is a lot of trial and error.

Thanks,
Greg
 
greg1205 said:
This may be posted elsewhere, but where's the best deal on Silmar 41? Also, I'm going to try to use the new Resin Saver's I bought from Charlie, but have a question for anyone who's used them:

Do I color the resin separately and then pour them into the mold and add catalyst there, or pour into a third cup and add catalyst then pour into the mold? That way seems to make the most sense, but it also seems likt this is a lot of trial and error.

Thanks,
Greg
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Greg,

When working with PR, you should only need a single cup. You pour your PR in the cup. Color it with desired pigment and mix completely. Then add your catalyst and mix completely. Then pour it into your mold.

Only one cup needed per color.
 
Jeff-in-Indiana said:
cups :
PETE - recycle #1 work great
PS - recycle #6 melt quickly
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Yup. Here's a visual for you I just posted on my blog:

meltedcup.jpg


I usually use waxed paper cups. They work great. One of these days I'll have silicone mixing cups.
 
PTownSubbie said:
Greg,

When working with PR, you should only need a single cup. You pour your PR in the cup. Color it with desired pigment and mix completely. Then add your catalyst and mix completely. Then pour it into your mold.

Only one cup needed per color.
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Thanks, Fred. I guess what I meant to ask is what about swirling colors? Doesn't that have to happen in two cups?
 
greg1205 said:
PTownSubbie said:
Greg,

When working with PR, you should only need a single cup. You pour your PR in the cup. Color it with desired pigment and mix completely. Then add your catalyst and mix completely. Then pour it into your mold.

Only one cup needed per color.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Fred. I guess what I meant to ask is what about swirling colors? Doesn't that have to happen in two cups?
Click to expand...

Yes. One cup per color and then you pour them together in the mold (usually)

Here is a video that shows how one member here does it.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1069269&postcount=1
 
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