Sharpening Turning Tools

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WildcatHollow

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Nov 4, 2009
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104
Location
Boyce, Virginia, USA
I have several questions about sharpening my tools, and wondered if you could help, please.

1. How often should I sharpen them, if I use them every day on wood? (Number of pens? Number of hours? Number of days?)

2. How often should I sharpen them, if I use them every day on acrylics?

3. Where can I find some information on the correct way to sharpen turning tools?

4. Would it be worth investing in a sharpening system such as that made by Jet, Tormek or Koch?

5. Are there any other systems, manual or power that I should consider?

Thank you for your help.

t.
 
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Sometimes it depends on how often they hit the floor. I have some of those fancy sharpeners, but really use the gouge more than anything. I have my tool rest on the ginder set for the gouge and just touch it up when the shaving get small and the tool is not cutting well. Usually one little touch all the way around and it is sharp. No real grinding, but just barely touch the tool to the stone. Back to turning. Woodsmith.com has a good video on sharpening.
 
I made 2 pens today, a corn cob cigar, and a circuit board pen. I used my skew extensively and because of the CA glue I used to stabilize the corn cobs, I must have sharpened it a minimum of a dozen times either using the hone or a quick dressing on the grinder when I couldn't improve the edge with the hone. - When I turned the circuit board blank (acrylic) I touched up the skew four or five times at least with the grinder. I also used a very sharp roughing gouge for the circuit board pen, and touched it up several times on the grinder as well.

The secret of a turning whether it's pens, bowls, table legs or whatever is to keep those tool sharp. If you don't, then it's easy to get messed up, you do a lot more sanding to fix mistakes, and it's much safer for the turner as well because you don't have to push as hard to make fine cuts.

I use an 8" slow speed grinder with a One Way/Wolverine jig system for sharpening purposes. It is worth the money, it comes with great instructions and a user's DVD and it is easy to learn and use, plus it too makes sharpening on the grinder much safer for you.

Rick (mtgrizzly52)
 
I sharpen about every three pens, wood or acrylic. It only takes a few seconds, and only removes a few thousandths if you do it right. Sharp tools are always more fun.

The Complete Guide to Sharpening by Leonard Lee is the bible of tool sharpening. Also, youtube has a couple videos from Woodcraft/Oneway on sharpening with the Wolverine Sharpening System. As far as I am concerned, that's the only system to use. Get a cheap 1725 rpm grinder from Woodcraft, and the Wolverine with the Vari-grind attachment, and you will be set. Around $256, but the grinder is often on sale for around $80-$90. I don't like the slow speed water wheels like the Tormek, just too slow for me. Find a local AAW (American Association of Woodturners) chapter for some hands on help.
 
I sharpen about every three pens, wood or acrylic. It only takes a few seconds, and only removes a few thousandths if you do it right. Sharp tools are always more fun.

The Complete Guide to Sharpening by Leonard Lee is the bible of tool sharpening. Also, youtube has a couple videos from Woodcraft/Oneway on sharpening with the Wolverine Sharpening System. As far as I am concerned, that's the only system to use. Get a cheap 1725 rpm grinder from Woodcraft, and the Wolverine with the Vari-grind attachment, and you will be set. Around $256, but the grinder is often on sale for around $80-$90. I don't like the slow speed water wheels like the Tormek, just too slow for me. Find a local AAW (American Association of Woodturners) chapter for some hands on help.

Here Here on this one. I am a jig man myself and as far as I am concerned I can sharpen just as fast as a free hand sharpener.
I usually sharpen every 2nd pen or if doing other stuff like bowls, say a 12 to 16 inch one, I do it every 2nd pass.
You might want to check out the Raptor setup tools at CSUSA and their video on these, I have a set of them and I find it makes things even faster. Good luck and happy sharpening.

Lin.
 
when to sharpen? when the tool dulls..how often, when the tool dulls...get yourself a book or dvd on sharpening..there are many good ones out there..
 
When to sharpen? Always! Every other pass. J/k but seriously with wood, I find that every couple of pens then sharpen, execption is really hard woods.

Acrylics (platics), alot, you will start to see the shavings go from a nice ribbon to chips, sharpen now.

As for buying a jig, I might buy a wolverine sometime in the future when I have spare $$ and think of it, but untill then, using my home made one works great.

There are plans out there for a great one, even shows you how to make the side attachments for the skews. BUT we are wood workers, why buy when we can make..

Here is a link to a thread I posted on this very topic not long ago
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53426

|Dennis
 
WildcatHollow I have several questions about sharpening my tools, and wondered if you could help, please.

1. How often should I sharpen them, if I use them every day on wood? (Number of pens? Number of hours? Number of days?)
--> Often - as soon as it no longer cuts well as "sharp". Depends on what you are cutting.
2. How often should I sharpen them, if I use them every day on acrylics?
--> I will often sharpen two times or more for acrylics - per pen
3. Where can I find some information on the correct way to sharpen turning tools?
--> I would recommend a jig system - and their webiste like http://oneway.ca/sharpening/index.htm I use this system - and you can make your own version.
4. Would it be worth investing in a sharpening system such as that made by Jet, Tormek or Koch?
--> It's hard to say - these systems can give you very good results - but I was / am too cheap to use them. Still, out the door the wolverine setup still cost 200 dollars (motor+ add ons)

5. Are there any other systems, manual or power that I should consider?

I indicated the one I like - now if you have other tools that need sharping like planner blades, etc - your choice in equipment might change. Heck, there is even a setup for the shopsmith to keep the tools sharp.

You could even hand hone the tools after they have been sharpened - some folks say it makes all the difference.

Thank you for your help.
--> Your welcome
 
Some years ago I bought the Tormek (a T7 predecessor with the 250mm stone) grinder. Everytime I use it I find this grinder is among the best tools I have.
The sharpening result is of such precision (for such a range of woodworking tools), that IMHO the Tormek system is unbeatable (I don't know the capacities of Tormek likes such as Jet system).
As for the grinder's slowness IMHO it's a myth.
Finally, the test for all my tools sharpness (after grinding/sharpening and leather-honing) is the sheat of paper cutting. If this is easy for a wood chisel, that works also with a gouge... thanks to Tormek.
 
I've used several different methods of sharpening. If you need to regrind or completely renew an edge, then the Wolverine (or the PSI knock off) works really well. I also got the worksharp when it was on sale for $20, and that works well to refine an already established grind to a razor sharp edge.

But once you have the chisels sharpened, I find the most handy tool is a diamond honing plate to do a few quick passes with while you're in the middle of turning an item. Works wonders on scrapers, skews, and even drill bits. You can get the 3 pack for a low price at Harbor Freight, or wait for a coupon for Rockler or Woodcraft (I never see the DMT diamond stones they carry on sale...).
 
I see you got lots of good answers here and I'm probably not the guy to answer... may just cause more cornfusion:biggrin:... but I sharpen when the tool doesn't cut like I want it to... strictly a judgment call... also I don't use any kind of grinder ('cause don't have one and haven't stopped pinching Abe to get one:biggrin:)... and I'm sure they are much better than the method I use.... I sharpen on a 1" belt sander free hand... I'm pretty sure I would get better edge from a proper unit, but for now it works for me and I do get a pretty good edge on my tools.
 
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