Sharpening brad point bits

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Monty

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Since this was mentioned in another thread and I didn't want to hijack it, does anyone have any tips or pointers for sharpening brad point bits?
 
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Originally posted by Monty
<br />Since this was mentioned in another thread and I didn't want to hijack it, does anyone have any tips or pointers for sharpening brad point bits?


Never, ever, never-never put your sharpenting tool to the outside of the bit. File or stone only the inside of the cutting edges.
 
I once had a sharpening machine. the Foley Belsaw sharp all. it was the only machine I have seen that could be set up to sharpen brad point bits. not that i have seen all machines, it's just the only one that I have seen. I do it by hand but that is a really poor way to do it at best. the bit has two cutting edges and they both have to be kept even with each other. other than that it is simply pushing the bit into the corner of the grinding wheel at the correct angles. My wolverine sharpening system has made this easier and a block of wood as a jig would help even more. the bit has to be held at two angles. one is off to the right or left from a direct line withthe grinding wheel. in my case I hold it off to the right. the other engle would be angled up or down as needed. you then push the bit into the corner of the whell so it grinds boththe cutting edge and the center spur at the same time. Rotate the bit 180 degrees to grind the other edge and the other side or the center spur. both outside points on the bit have to stay the same heigth. hope that makes since. and the center spur has to remain in the center.
if you can get that whole picture in your head, it is not all that hard to devise a jig of some sort that will help in holding the bit as well as controling how far you can push the bit toward the wheel. if the bit is held at the exact same angles. and pushed toward the grinding wheel the same distance for both sides, everything will come out even and centered. It is actually easier than sharpening a regular drill bit that has to be rotated as it is ground. the hard part is keeping everything even on both sides.
 
Found these folks in a quick search. Know nothing about them, but would seem less frustrating to send them a batch at a time. Anybody got experience with them or another company? They do all sorts of sharpening including taper and forstner.

http://www.mooresharpening.com/service.htm
-----Brad Point Drills ------

5/64 â€" ¼ $1.50
17/64 â€" ½ $1.95
33/64 â€" ¾ $2.25
49/64 â€" 1†$3.75
OVER 1†$5.00


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For the cost and trouble of sharpening them, it looks like it would be better to throw out the dull bits and buy a new HF set.
 
Originally posted by Monty
<br />For the cost and trouble of sharpening them, it looks like it would be better to throw out the dull bits and buy a new HF set.

Not really. They can be sharpened at home. I won't dispute Daniel's reccomendations but I sharpen mine with a lot less fuss (and exactness). For smaller ones I use the hand held Ez-Lap diamond files that are about the size of tongue depressors. A few strokes, eyeballing correct angles and you are back in business in seconds. For larger (I have a 3/4" I use a lot) I use my 1" belt grinder and, again, eyeball correct angles. Takes seconds. That happens to be my most expensive bit and I sure don't want to ruin or replace it. It is used for end-grain boring into hard-hardwoods and it works great even with my sharpening technique.
 
Originally posted by Rifleman
<br />
Originally posted by Monty
<br />For the cost and trouble of sharpening them, it looks like it would be better to throw out the dull bits and buy a new HF set.

Not really. They can be sharpened at home. I won't dispute Daniel's reccomendations but I sharpen mine with a lot less fuss (and exactness). For smaller ones I use the hand held Ez-Lap diamond files that are about the size of tongue depressors. A few strokes, eyeballing correct angles and you are back in business in seconds. For larger (I have a 3/4" I use a lot) I use my 1" belt grinder and, again, eyeball correct angles. Takes seconds. That happens to be my most expensive bit and I sure don't want to ruin or replace it. It is used for end-grain boring into hard-hardwoods and it works great even with my sharpening technique.

I agree with Frank on this one. I have used methods similar to his and I've not had any problems.
 
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