Sharpening a Woodcraft pen mill

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Woodchipper

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Started to turn down a piece of cherry for a Christmas ornament kit from WC. However, the wood started smoking and heated up so quickly, the epoxy broke loose! Does anyone know of a good way to sharpen or replace it? TIA.
Edit: This is the cutter part if I didn't describe it at first.
 
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Thanks for the great video. I made the mistake of sharpening the cutting edge and not the back as shown. Might have to replace the cutter. Will try your method as that might cure the problem.
 
I figured out the same thing on my own, but the video posted by @its_virgil above is better than what I was doing. I was using small diamond files and moving them back and forth on the flat faces. That made it harder to keep the diamond file properly registered against the flat face.

The video shows how to place a diamond card extended slightly over a workbench edge, register the flat face of the pen mill, and then move the mill back and forth on the stationary card. (Repeat for each face.) That's a better approach.

Quite honestly, I got fed up with sharpening those cheap pen mills I was buying from Rockler, which dulled quickly, and was too lazy to make my own disc sander pen milling jig on the lathe, which would have been better. I sucked it up and bought the Woodpeckers pen mill. I don't like to buy Woodpeckers tools because I think they are way overpriced, but after shopping and comparing with similar carbide pen mills, I bought the five piece set, which includes pilot reamers that fit the pen kits I make. It is only the second Woodpeckers tool I've bought. I can vouch for the high quality and ease of use of the Woodpecker pen mill. It can be aggressive if you are not careful; use a light touch.

What I like about carbide pen mills is the ease of sharpening. You rotate the carbide tip. If all edges have been used up, then you can try flattening the back on diamond stones or just buy replacements from Woodpeckers or a third-party supplier like Arizona Carbide.

Woodpeckers pen mill:
https://www.woodpeck.com/ultra-shear-pen-mill-inserts.html

Arizona Carbide, one of the vendors who is active here on Penturners and a great resource for inexpensive, but good quality carbide replacement tips. They are a far better value than the original tool maker:
https://azcarbide.com/
https://www.penturners.org/forums/azcarbide.410/
(Don't ask me which replacement to buy, I have not needed to replace them yet.)

Edit, Addendum:

Rockler sells two kinds of pen mills. One comes in a set with "barrel cleaners" in common pen kit sizes and a six edge mill. I have two of those. When one got dull, I could use the other until I had a chance to sharpen the dull one. Because they have six edges, the spacing is tighter between them for sharpening.

The other pen mill at Rockler was sold as separate parts - you bought the mill and the barrel cleaner separately. I just looked, and Rockler's website has the four-edge mills, but only a 7mm barrel cleaner on the website, leading me to wonder whether they are phasing it out. Those four-edge mills are similar to the one sold by Woodcraft in the thread title.

Rockler six-edge pen mill kit, I made pens with it, but got tired of the tricky, frequent sharpening and they are expensive to replace:
https://www.rockler.com/barrel-cleaner-pen-mill-kit
Rockler four-edge pen mill kit that I didn't buy because the overall cost was higher than the six-edge pen mill kit above, and now it only seems to have a 7mm barrel cleaner only - a two part kit, or the separate parts:
https://www.rockler.com/7mm-x-1-2-pen-pencil-combo-mill
https://www.rockler.com/pen-mill-barrel-trimmers
https://www.rockler.com/7mm-pen-barrel-cleaner

Woodcraft's Pen Mill:
https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=pen+mill
They have many reamers (barrel cleaners). Use this search to see them:
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/whiteside-pen-mill-set
 
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I use the barrel cleaner only to stabilize the cutter on the tube, to clean the small amount of glue in the tube I use a tapered round file. You can use spare 7mm tubes with blanks turned down to fit inside whatever size tube your pen needs and use one cutter for all tubes.
 
I actually retired my accumulation of pen mills and now I only use disk sanders to do my pen blank squaring. I could list several reasons why I switched but easy to use, precise accuracy and speed are at the top of the list. Rick Harrell's offset sanding jig is my favorite.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
I too sharpen my pen mills, not only the back side but after a while even the edge needs an occasional touch up. I made a jig which mounts to my grinding base and use a diamond wheel on the little grinder, I can touch up each blade for an extremely sharp edge.
 
I too sharpen my pen mills, not only the back side but after a while even the edge needs an occasional touch up. I made a jig which mounts to my grinding base and use a diamond wheel on the little grinder, I can touch up each blade for an extremely sharp edge.
Would you be willing to share a photo of your jig?
 
Would you be willing to share a photo of your jig?
I hope these come through, if so I do not remember the angle I cut the jig to, it's been quite a few years. the shaft I used is only an old drill bit the same diameter as the shaft on the pen mill. I do have an adjustable stop to keep the cutters to the same distance to the wheel and I just use a mark on the top of the jig to align each blade before sliding it to the wheel. the set screw is used to tension the shaft so it will rotate with a bit of pressure. All in all pretty simple but it has been working for a number of years now.
 

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I'm pondering using a sanding disk setup for the lathe I made several years ago. If, and a big IF, I was turning and selling pens on even a part-time basis, I would go with the Woodpecker set. I see it advertised in Woodturner magazine. "Why didn't I think of that?"
I use a Droz precision square to set the disk and the moveable side to 90 degrees. It works!
 

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I managed to sharpen my barrel trimmer and found the best use for it now is cleaning out the brass tube after gluing and trimming, and to trim the excess CA glue from the ends when I'm done. I'm careful to not get too aggressive with that as I don't want to have a cutting edge grab and chip out the finish, but for light trimming of the glue and squaring up the pen as a final step (rather than a first step as these are meant to be), they work great.

Jeff
 
It works but rather slowly. I followed a video and sharpened the "wall" rather than the cutting angle. Much better. Live and learn.
 
I actually retired my accumulation of pen mills and now I only use disk sanders to do my pen blank squaring. I could list several reasons why I switched but easy to use, precise accuracy and speed are at the top of the list. Rick Harrell's offset sanding jig is my favorite.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
+1 For Rick Harrell's offset sanding jig. If only I'd bought that before the million other things I spent time/money on trying to get my pens to be concentric. Dead flat/square every time, and you can vary the aggression with different grits of sandpaper on cheap/homemade face plates.
 
Rick Harrell's offset sanding jig is my favorite.
+1 For Rick Harrell's offset sanding jig. If only I'd bought that before the million other things I spent time/money on trying to get my pens to be concentric. Dead flat/square every time, and you can vary the aggression with different grits of sandpaper on cheap/homemade face plates.
Make that +2, and I know there are a lot more. It's a small price to pay for the results and I wish I had done it sooner. Pro tip. He usually has a sale during the BD bash. Stay tuned.
 
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