Second Segmented Pen

[Jim Campbell]

I have finished the second of two segmented pens I have been working on.

I'm not as thrilled with this pen. The Paduk bled over into the maple.

I also think two woods, max, for this kind of segmented pen. Three seems to confuse the pattern. Perhaps leave either the Paduk or the walnut out.

I'm not sure what to do with the bleed over from the Paduk.

 

[Sly Dog]

Looks great to me. Seams look tight and precise and, frankly, I like the 3 wood pattern. Those are popular choices of woods for segmenting.

I'll pass along sound advice someone here gave me a couple of years back about bleeding colors into light woods like maple and that is: don't sand. Use a sharp skew for the last pass or two. A sharp skew should leave you a very smooth surface and then finish from there. If you have to sand, apply a sealer or coat of thin CA but even that might not eliminate bleeding.

Nice work!

 

[Jim Campbell]

Looks great to me. Seams look tight and precise and, frankly, I like the 3 wood pattern. Those are popular choices of woods for segmenting.

I'll pass along sound advice someone here gave me a couple of years back about bleeding colors into light woods like maple and that is: don't sand. Use a sharp skew for the last pass or two. A sharp skew should leave you a very smooth surface and then finish from there. If you have to sand, apply a sealer or coat of thin CA but even that might not eliminate bleeding.

Nice work!

Thanks........

Some of the bleed came from the glue-up. I'm not certain I prepped the wood correctly. I stabilized the maple and Paduk, but I likely should have wiped them down with denatured alcohol or acetone before glue-up.

 

[jttheclockman]

What did you glue the woods together with. I like to use epoxy. It will not bleed. As Russ said when turning forget the sandpaper and turn it down to close to finished size with whatever tool you choose and then finish with a light touch with a sharp skew. No need for sandpaper. Now finishing can also cause bleed over. So what I do is use thin CA and one wipe one way, a quick coat. After that you can finish as needed. Or you can spray with a coat of dewaxed shellac and then top coat.

Example maple and bloodwood.

 

[TDahl]

I like the design and the and the finish. Like Russ said, the three colors go well together. Thanks for posting. Thank you Russ and John for the tips on using the skew instead of sand paper. It is threads like this that allow everyone to keep learning and improving their skills.

 

[Jim Campbell]

What did you glue the woods together with. I like to use epoxy. It will not bleed. As Russ said when turning forget the sandpaper and turn it down to close to finished size with whatever tool you choose and then finish with a light touch with a sharp skew. No need for sandpaper. Now finishing can also cause bleed over. So what I do is use thin CA and one wipe one way, a quick coat. After that you can finish as needed. Or you can spray with a coat of dewaxed shellac and then top coat.

Example maple and bloodwood.

Thanks for the feedback.

I will need to give the epoxy a try. On the initial glue-ups I used old fashioned yellow wood glue. That could be part of the bleed issue. I have another set of glue-ups sitting where I used Titebond III Ultimate. It has been recommended by someone who does a great deal of segmented work, so we'll see how it turns out.

The recommendation of a clean cut and no sanding is something I can try and achieve, but to be honest my turning skills may not be where they need to be. I will certainly apply the thin blow off the dust and apply a thin coat of CA before attempting to sand.

Jim