scroll saw

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Paul in OKC

Paul in OKC

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2004
Messages
3,111
Location
Oklahoma City, OK, USA.
Got a scroll saw at a pawn shop (Craftsman), but it had no blades or holders. Does it just use blade with pins, or do I need to find holders? It looks like the blades with pins would have to have a twist in them for the blade to be the right direction.
 
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Who knows...I can't see the saw. Blades with pins do not go sideways, lol. If you were looking straight at the teeth of the blade there would be a pin sticking out each side of the blade top and bottom to form a T shape. Pin blades simply slip into a slot. They are quite lousy as they tend to fall out while cutting, they break easy, and they can't be threaded into a small hole. Usually a craftsman would use a normal blade that goes into the blade holder and is then tightened using an allen wrench. Then there is a dial on the side for tension. but like I said, can't see what you have.
 
workinforwood said:
Who knows...I can't see the saw. Blades with pins do not go sideways, lol. If you were looking straight at the teeth of the blade there would be a pin sticking out each side of the blade top and bottom to form a T shape. Pin blades simply slip into a slot. They are quite lousy as they tend to fall out while cutting, they break easy, and they can't be threaded into a small hole. Usually a craftsman would use a normal blade that goes into the blade holder and is then tightened using an allen wrench. Then there is a dial on the side for tension. but like I said, can't see what you have.
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Maybe I'll get a pic up later. What I meant was the little slot, or 'indent' for the blade pins is in line with the arm, not perpendicular to it. I'll take a better look at it this weekend. I see where Sears has a conversion kit that lets the saw hold plain blades, nay have to go that route, may make my own! Thanks.
 
Mine uses a holder. You clamp the blade into the older and then the holder has a metal bar that goes into the arms on the saw.
 
Ah...yes, love that kind. When the blade breaks the holder flies across the shop or hits you in the head! hehe. It isn't very condusive to making you want to scroll. I have two craftsman scrollsaws, but they both have permanently attached blade holders and an allen wrench to tighten the blade in the hole. I love my Hawk the best, but sometimes when I am cutting really small objects I tend to lean to close to the saw, and if the blade snaps, the tension on the spring causes the upper arm to lift up pretty darn fast and whack my forehead. It has made me blead a few times.
 
I had an older dremel that had the detachable blade holders ,those things hurt. I just got a Craftsman that is variable speed and uses plain blades, I have to go to the storage shed and dig out my jewelers saw blades, I've had it sitting on the floor in here for two weeks and just now tried it, it doesn't like to cut Ipe, where can I get some wood blades that are about right for trying segmenting, maybe .015 or so thick for wood, I have or had, a lot of Hercules white label blades ranging from 4/0 to 6 I think the 4/0 might be too fine for wood.
 
Paul: It might help if you were to post the model number of your saw. There is probably someone around who owns that model and can answer your question or we can look it up on the Internet and maybe find a copy of the ownwes manual.
 
bitshird said:
I had an older dremel that had the detachable blade holders ,those things hurt. I just got a Craftsman that is variable speed and uses plain blades, I have to go to the storage shed and dig out my jewelers saw blades, I've had it sitting on the floor in here for two weeks and just now tried it, it doesn't like to cut Ipe, where can I get some wood blades that are about right for trying segmenting, maybe .015 or so thick for wood, I have or had, a lot of Hercules white label blades ranging from 4/0 to 6 I think the 4/0 might be too fine for wood.
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Contact Mike at Mikesworkshop. he sells flying dutchman blades...no not spongebob related! Great blades though, huge selection, cheap shipping, fast service. Mike will know or already has the kerf of his blades listed as well. I think what you would want is a #7 or #9 polar skip tooth blade.
 
I second the Flying Dutchmen blades. Back when Mike first started out, he was giving away sample packs of them. Olson are ok, but seem to break pretty easy.
 
Not knowing too much about that saw, there are some craftsman saws that can not be converted to use the quick release clamps. This is because there is not enough room at the bottom clamp. Not sure if this is one of them. But Sears sells a conversion kit and if you can not find it there you should be able to find out info and parts here. http://www.pozsgaidesigns.com/page0006.htm
 
I have seen the upgrade kit at Sears online. Figured I can make a key, if nothing else. When I bought the saw, there was another next to it at twice the price. I used its key to make sure the thing run. The guy accused me (laughingly) of hiding it to get a better deal =8^(. I did get it for $20, so no complaints for the little bit to make it work.
 
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