sanding the outside of a bowl

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babyblues

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
658
Location
Portland, ME, USA.
I use an angle drill to sand my bowls. I usually sand with the lathe off. I turned a couple natural edge bowls and while it's easy enough to sand the inside of the bowl because it's concave, I find it difficult to power sand the convex shape of the outside of the bowl with the lathe off. As it's a natural edge bowl, there's only so much sanding that I can do with the lathe running. I'm using 2" sanding discs on a Tom Skilton sanding pad. Is there a better way?
 
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I sometimes use a sanding pad in a hand drill for the outside of a bowl. I like the fact that, with the lathe running and the pad spinning I can get an even, almost non-directional sanding finish. There's a trick to this. If the bowl is spinning too fast it will overwhelm the swirling pattern and you will wind up only slightly better off than just using a handheld pad on a rotating bowl. On the Jet 1642EVS that is my main lathe I run it around 100 rpm. This makes the spinning drill easier to control, as well.

If I'm just putting on a finishing surface I'l start at 320. If I'm trying to correct a problem then I go low enough to do the job and run the grits up. Once the 320 grit is done I put on a coat of waterlox filler and tough up by hand. Then I use 400 grit and switch to waterlox finish until I feel I have a good even coat. Lately I've been finishing up with 0000 steel wool then buff it out and wax.

If I don't want a glossy finish I may use Velvit oil instead of Waterlox.

Marc
 
I sometimes use a sanding pad in a hand drill for the outside of a bowl. I like the fact that, with the lathe running and the pad spinning I can get an even, almost non-directional sanding finish. There's a trick to this. If the bowl is spinning too fast it will overwhelm the swirling pattern and you will wind up only slightly better off than just using a handheld pad on a rotating bowl. On the Jet 1642EVS that is my main lathe I run it around 100 rpm. This makes the spinning drill easier to control, as well.

If I'm just putting on a finishing surface I'l start at 320. If I'm trying to correct a problem then I go low enough to do the job and run the grits up. Once the 320 grit is done I put on a coat of waterlox filler and tough up by hand. Then I use 400 grit and switch to waterlox finish until I feel I have a good even coat. Lately I've been finishing up with 0000 steel wool then buff it out and wax.

If I don't want a glossy finish I may use Velvit oil instead of Waterlox.

Marc

I do it almost exactly as Marc does it!
 
I use a Porter-Cable model 330 sander that I have for my flat work. The pad of the sander is felt, so it will conform to the surface of the bowl pretty well.
 
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