sanding segmented wood blanks

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

jzerger

Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
Messages
196
Location
Salisbury, NC
I've only done a few segmented pens so forgive the ignorance.
Sanding a, for example, a bloodwood and maple seam causes the red to smear into the maple. And using DNA makes a big mess in color. So far, I ended up just using a very sharp skew to finish off the "sanding".
What is the preferred method?
I use a CA finish.

This has only been a problem with different colored (and grained) woods; no problems with acrylic or celtic knots or just aluminum highlights; but in a checkerboard type pattern the colors like to merge.
Thanks for the help,
john
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
John,

I had the same issue when I used a Padauk/Wenge/Maple blank. The Padauk dust would smear onto the Maple.

Sanding with the grain (end to end) will get rid of most of the smear. Do this each time you move up in grit.

By the time you get up to 600 just hit it with compressed air after and you'll be ready for the first layer of CA.
 
I always just use compressed air. This works for light color woods that get actual grit from the sandpaper in the grain.
 
I have had luck, and it could be just luck, with
Turn your piece to about .010 of final measurements
Take your favorite sanding sealer, I use midlands, and add about 1/3 thinner for the type of sealer.
Now apply a liberal coat to your pen black
Let it sit for at least 4 hours or over night. If you live in a hot environment the 4 hours in the heat should completely dry the sealer.
Carefully turn down to .5. If you can still see the sealer go a little further down. If not reapply the thinned sealer and wait the same amount of time.
Repeat carefully turning down .5. You should now be even with all of your final dimensions.
If you can see the sealer start to very carefully sand. I mean very carefully.
If you think you are almost through the sealer STOP. Reapply the thinned sealer until you are at your normal below final diameter for your finish.
If everything was done right you have kept the "bleed", the dust in reality, to the top of the sealer. Now wipe down with rubbing alcohol.
If you need more sanding add the thinned sealer and sand lightly.
This should keep the colors separate.
YMMV. Good turning.
 
This is really a question that has been asked many times. It is all about experience and experimenting to find the best way. I have done a few segmented pens and used to have this same issue. Make sure you are sanding dry for this type of pen. There are other things that you can do but those things will come to you as you learn and perfect your techniques. Stay with it and experiment..
 
Back
Top Bottom