Here is the finished cradle V1.0. There are a couple other pics of it in the shop shots gallery. Made from an old particle board shelf just to make sure it would work out. I am going to make a shim to raise the front because my floors are uneven and the level is too high up the lidhole in the "off" position. Otherwise, I think it is going to work out very good!
Rock a bye Resin!
- Thread starter RAdams
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edman2
Local Chapter Leader
Ron, OK, so explain to me how you use this to pour. I've read about rolling the 5 gal bucket but I don't quite catch how that works. Use little words so I get it! :biggrin:
In the picture above, you can see that the spout for the bucket is at the top in this configuration. The idea is that the level in the bucket will be low enough that you can open the bucket when it is on it's side. then you gently roll the bucket and as you roll the bucket, the spout turns, lowering it below the level of the liquid therefore letting the liquid out in a controlled fashion. The cradle is just a simple contraption to hold the bucket so i don't have to. It is also inclined slightly, so the idea is to hold your mix cup with the left hand, and roll the bucket with the right. Once the mix cup is full, simply let the bucket roll back to the "off" position (spout at it's highest possible position.) As the bucket gets lower and lower, you can "reset" the beginning spout position. In my particular situation, with a brand new bucket, and a very uneven floor, I have shimmed the front of the cradle up to elevate the spout.
Make sense?
The hardest part was getting the bucket on top of the chest tall dresser. I have done several dry runs, and cannot pour for a couple of days still. My daughter is recooping from MAJOR surgery, and i have a 5 month old in the house for a few days with strict rules about chemical use while she is here. As soon as i get the go ahead i will take it for the first test drive and let everyone know how it goes. I suspect it will be excellent!
Make sense?
The hardest part was getting the bucket on top of the chest tall dresser. I have done several dry runs, and cannot pour for a couple of days still. My daughter is recooping from MAJOR surgery, and i have a 5 month old in the house for a few days with strict rules about chemical use while she is here. As soon as i get the go ahead i will take it for the first test drive and let everyone know how it goes. I suspect it will be excellent!
Clever!! The simplest ideas are always the best:biggrin:
just one question...., is the resin tub rigid enough around the lid end so that it won't deform ( and maybe pop open
)when resting or rolling the tub along the wood edge? Perhaps a board on top of the two edges?
just one question...., is the resin tub rigid enough around the lid end so that it won't deform ( and maybe pop open
)when resting or rolling the tub along the wood edge? Perhaps a board on top of the two edges?With the shrinkwrap around the lid, as well as the original lid seal, I am confident that it won't come off. Plus there is quite a bit of extra plastic on the bucket around the outside, in the form of supports for the handle etc. that rides near the edge of the cradle. I have removed the bucket from the cradle for now just because it is going to be a few days till i can pour.
This cradle is V1.0, which means I (WE) are redesigning it as we speak. I think i will add a piece of wood more like a shelf for V1.1.
OOp. I also think i will add a Duck tape diaper for the bucket in the form of four or five wraps in two directions to form the good ole Pirate target. Lookie there, V1.2 already!
How about the next tiny issue, shims for the front and back, so the height of each could be controlled individually. Would be nice if it was something built in. V1.3 is in the process already. wow this place works quick! I like it!!
This cradle is V1.0, which means I (WE) are redesigning it as we speak. I think i will add a piece of wood more like a shelf for V1.1.
OOp. I also think i will add a Duck tape diaper for the bucket in the form of four or five wraps in two directions to form the good ole Pirate target. Lookie there, V1.2 already!
How about the next tiny issue, shims for the front and back, so the height of each could be controlled individually. Would be nice if it was something built in. V1.3 is in the process already. wow this place works quick! I like it!!
Mikey
Member
Now that is what I envisioned rather than a strap holding the bucket and having to tilt it on a pivot like I have seen in other pics.
Leave it as is and use your time to cast rather than rebuild 5 times over. Nothing wrong with the design and it will work well for you.
Leave it as is and use your time to cast rather than rebuild 5 times over. Nothing wrong with the design and it will work well for you.
edman2
Local Chapter Leader
bitshird
Member
Good Idea and it's nice getting a gallon for free and not having to fight with a 5 gallon can.
jedgerton
Member
Ron,
When you were using the 1 gallon cans, how did you dispense that?
John
When you were using the 1 gallon cans, how did you dispense that?
John
A Phillips head screwdriver.
After the first gallon, and knocking the seal out of the hole completely, I gave up on the factory hole. I did the second, third and fourth with a screwdriver straight through the top of the can. I would stab one hole in the corner i wanted to pour from and two holes in the opposite corner for air. I used pliers to crinkle the edge of the can a little bit sorta to make a spout at the pouring corner. Then i covered the holes with tape. When i wanted to pour, I just pulled the tape off of the pour side, and pulled enough of the air side tape off to expose the holes.
If you use this method, The "Rolling" trick used with the bucket works very well with this spout technique on the gallon jugs. When you are at the end of the pour, rotate the can to change the liquid level inside, as opposed to letting the bottom of the can drop. If you drop the bottom of the can down too soon, the PR will dribble down the side of the can and get very messy!
After the first gallon, and knocking the seal out of the hole completely, I gave up on the factory hole. I did the second, third and fourth with a screwdriver straight through the top of the can. I would stab one hole in the corner i wanted to pour from and two holes in the opposite corner for air. I used pliers to crinkle the edge of the can a little bit sorta to make a spout at the pouring corner. Then i covered the holes with tape. When i wanted to pour, I just pulled the tape off of the pour side, and pulled enough of the air side tape off to expose the holes.
If you use this method, The "Rolling" trick used with the bucket works very well with this spout technique on the gallon jugs. When you are at the end of the pour, rotate the can to change the liquid level inside, as opposed to letting the bottom of the can drop. If you drop the bottom of the can down too soon, the PR will dribble down the side of the can and get very messy!
jkeithrussell
Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2008
- Messages
- 1,277
Are you using PR inside your house? If so, very bad idea.
glycerine
Member
Nice. Thanks for posting pics!
jkeithrussell
Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2008
- Messages
- 1,277
It's flammable, but it is also very toxic. Please don't use PR in your house. Google "polyester resin msds" and read about the hazards.
I am one step ahead of you boss. I actually wear a Triton when p am messing with PR, as well as my shop is part of my house, but it is isolated, and ventilated.As for the flamability issues, The only thing with any kind of spark allowed in my shop while i am messing with uncured PR is one single overhead light.
I do appreciate the concern!
I do appreciate the concern!