Results from first casting attempts

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grz5

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So here are the results of my first casting attempts (in order from left to right). I was aiming to create well defined swirls but my timing still seems to be off.

The basic parameters for each cast was:
2oz blanks
1oz one color
1oz another
Each had a pinky-nail size amount of mica powder added.
5 drops of catalyst for each oz.
garage temp ~60-70F

The resin was placed in warm water (heated in the microwave until the water was steaming) for the entire process (mixing mica, adding MEPK, mixing until it began to gel) ***In retrospect this probably caused the PR to cure as fast as it did. ~5mins***

I'm still trying to figure out the timing needed to pour the resin to get the swirls.
1st cast poured too early

2nd Timing was too late, one of the resins solidified mid pour so I had to remix a new color and pour before the blue go too hard then it wouldn't mix well.

3rd the blue cured too fast this time.... being frustrated I just forced the blue pr into the mold and continued with the cast.

Kinda like the effect though :biggrin: happy mistake.

4th; Again a bit early. I made sure to mix the pr but the swirls didn't hold..I think that the heated pr started to circulate in the mold (similar to how heated water moves when boiling)

If anyone has any pointers or sees anything that I'm doing anything wrong please let me know. I'm going to try another cast tonight so any advice before I go again would be greatly appreciated!

Definitely caught the casting bug:biggrin:. Just need to improve my skills before the next castaway signups.
 

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Looks ok to me. My first attempt I wanted Blue w/ Yellow swirls. I poured the Blue and waited to add catalys to the yellow until the Blue started to Gel. Well way before that time the cup I hed yellow in MELTED!!! So I grabed it up poured it in and ended up w/ a baby boo-boo green. I now have some silicone cups I use that I picked up off Amazon. Waiting for a warm front to be able to cast agani.
 
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Yea I have found the tough part to figure out(which I haven't yet) it depends on the temp and other factors alot of miss fires but a few good ones
 
I assume you're casting vertically? That makes it tough to control the swirl of the colors. When I cast vertically, I prepare both colors, and pour simultaneously (one in each hand). This gives me a nice natural swirl. If you really want to get well defined swirls, you need to use horizontal molds, heat the resin like you are doing now, and then you will be able to get a toothpick in there to move the resin around.

Also, with heated resin, try using three drops per ounce. You will have a little more time to work this way.
 
Craftdiggity said:
I assume you're casting vertically? That makes it tough to control the swirl of the colors. When I cast vertically, I prepare both colors, and pour simultaneously (one in each hand). This gives me a nice natural swirl. If you really want to get well defined swirls, you need to use horizontal molds, heat the resin like you are doing now, and then you will be able to get a toothpick in there to move the resin around.

Also, with heated resin, try using three drops per ounce. You will have a little more time to work this way.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. Have you ever tired heating one part of the resin while leaving the other cool? I was thinking about the physics of the process and perhaps by exaggerating the temperature difference i could get interesting results....
 
I have recently started casting as well. I started a thread HERE.

After my first attempt, which I am reluctant to post pics because of the embarrassment factor, I did another cast. I pulled the second color out of the water bath sooner, but my timing was still off, as the first color kicked sooner than I had anticipated and the swirl factor was still not good.

I am going to give it another go tomorrow, and I HOPE to get a bit closer.

Keep trying!
 
Jason_r & Live2Dive: Thanks for the links! It seems that they're using a horizontal mold while casting. I'm currently using a vertical mold I got from Brooks (Thanks again Brooks :D ). I understand that it's harder to control the swirls while using a vertical mold but I would still like to get the swirls. I assume that the main issue is my timing, temperature, pouring method, and whether or not the stars are perfectly aligned. :p I think I'll try a few single casts tonight playing with the set time (try to get to the old honey stage) and perhaps a few other things including the caster's equivalent to the rain dance.
 
Just out of curiosity, have you turned any of those? The ones you pictured don't look turned. What comes out of the mold is nothing like what's inside.
 
No I haven't turned any of them yet. I will be as soon as i can get some tubes to glue them to.
 
grz5 said:
Jason_r & Live2Dive: Thanks for the links! It seems that they're using a horizontal mold while casting. I'm currently using a vertical mold I got from Brooks (Thanks again Brooks :D ). I understand that it's harder to control the swirls while using a vertical mold but I would still like to get the swirls. I assume that the main issue is my timing, temperature, pouring method, and whether or not the stars are perfectly aligned. :p I think I'll try a few single casts tonight playing with the set time (try to get to the old honey stage) and perhaps a few other things including the caster's equivalent to the rain dance.
Click to expand...


Yep. Technique and viscosity are probably the biggest factors.

With vertical molds, it's easier to get a "layered" look. If you want swirls that penetrate deeper and have finer lines, try pouring while it's a thinner, but also use a higher pour (just don't miss). The extra speed the resin gains while falling will produce finer lines (since your stream is smaller) and deeper swirls (since the faster moving stream will push deeper into the base color).

Then if you want to prevent color mixing, pre-heat the mold so it helps the resin kick off before the colors combine.
 
jason_r said:
grz5 said:
Jason_r & Live2Dive: Thanks for the links! It seems that they're using a horizontal mold while casting. I'm currently using a vertical mold I got from Brooks (Thanks again Brooks :D ). I understand that it's harder to control the swirls while using a vertical mold but I would still like to get the swirls. I assume that the main issue is my timing, temperature, pouring method, and whether or not the stars are perfectly aligned. :p I think I'll try a few single casts tonight playing with the set time (try to get to the old honey stage) and perhaps a few other things including the caster's equivalent to the rain dance.
Click to expand...


Yep. Technique and viscosity are probably the biggest factors.

With vertical molds, it's easier to get a "layered" look. If you want swirls that penetrate deeper and have finer lines, try pouring while it's a thinner, but also use a higher pour (just don't miss). The extra speed the resin gains while falling will produce finer lines (since your stream is smaller) and deeper swirls (since the faster moving stream will push deeper into the base color).

Then if you want to prevent color mixing, pre-heat the mold so it helps the resin kick off before the colors combine.
Click to expand...


Alright if its alright I'd like to ask a few questions to get some of the details. In order to get the deeper swirls I assume that the 2nd color is already in the mold correct?

What should the viscosuity of each component be? I assume that the resin thats being poured from 'x' height is thinner than the resin already in the mold. (ex Syrup -> Old Honey)

To help with the timing I was thinking of adding 3 drops of mepk (instead of 5) while keeping the resin in the warm water bath.

Yielding the basic procedure:
preheat mold
mix mica into resin while in water bath
add 3 drops of mepk to one color
add 4 drops to the other to get it to thicken faster.
pour thicker resin to mold when starting to set
pour thinner resin from height (while not missing)
let swirl naturally and perhaps add a swirl or 2 with a wire then set to cure...

Does this sound like a plausible method???
 
Here's a picture from a recent cast. Both blanks are from the same batch of PR. This one really stretched my abilities since I used 4 colors. I didn't get it perfect, but not nearly the worst I've done. And it will look different the further I turn it down.

EDIT: I should have told you that the bottom blank was turned just enough to show the inner swirls, and just lightly polished.

Beforeafter.jpg
 
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BSea said:
Here's a picture from a recent cast. Both blanks are from the same batch of PR. This one really stretched my abilities since I used 4 colors. I didn't get it perfect, but not nearly the worst I've done. And it will look different the further I turn it down.

Beforeafter.jpg
Click to expand...

WOW that is exactly what I'm aiming to get.......any chance you can give me a few tips on how I can achieve something similar (with 2 colors though)??? :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 
Ok, I'll give you my super secret recipe. Bear in mind I've just poured about 2 gallons of PR total. 1 to 2 gallons is about the learning curve for the basics.

I don't heat my resin (although I might change that as the temps keep dropping). I also don't heat my mold, but I think from now on I will. I can't see a reason not to do that.

1. mix your mica.
2. I use anywhere from 4 to 5 drops per color. I don't use more for colors like green that take longer to cure, I just add the MEPK sooner to those colors.
3. Wait till one of the colors starts to harden. As you know already, that's where experience will be your best teacher. It's not an exact science for those of us without heated and cooled areas to mix & pour.
4. For swirls, use a stir rod. I use a thin wire with a few bends in it. I twist it going down, and continue twisting in the same direction on the way back up.

That's about it. There are tons of little things that different people do. But the thing that seems to hold true is that you will make mistakes no matter what you do.
 
BSea said:
Ok, I'll give you my super secret recipe. Bear in mind I've just poured about 2 gallons of PR total. 1 to 2 gallons is about the learning curve for the basics.

I don't heat my resin (although I might change that as the temps keep dropping). I also don't heat my mold, but I think from now on I will. I can't see a reason not to do that.

1. mix your mica.
2. I use anywhere from 4 to 5 drops per color. I don't use more for colors like green that take longer to cure, I just add the MEPK sooner to those colors.
3. Wait till one of the colors starts to harden. As you know already, that's where experience will be your best teacher. It's not an exact science for those of us without heated and cooled areas to mix & pour.
4. For swirls, use a stir rod. I use a thin wire with a few bends in it. I twist it going down, and continue twisting in the same direction on the way back up.

That's about it. There are tons of little things that different people do. But the thing that seems to hold true is that you will make mistakes no matter what you do.
Click to expand...


Thanks you. You're secret is safe with me:)
 
For those swirls, I'm thinking it was more syrup than "old honey"

As for relative viscosity, think of it as if you added the thickness of both together, with a smaller number indicating finer swirls, but a larger number indicating better definition. So if syrup=3 and old honey=4, pouring syrup into syrup will yield finer swirls (a total of 6), than will pouring syrup into honey (total of 7). The trade is you'll lose definition of your colors as they mix more when thinner. Ribbon casting is the extreme- infinite viscosity of one color, so you get no swirls but absolute color definition.

I'll add:

Figure out which pigment is denser, and pour that one into the lighter one (i.e. pour it last) That way gravity will help the dense color sink into/through the other.

How to figure out which is denser? Pour both into a mold while quite runny, then see which color ends up on the bottom. If you end up with no differential, they're about the same density and you can pour in any order.

There are *many* tradeoffs in casting. Swirl fineness vs color definition is one. Opacity vs chatoyance is another. Keep notes.

If you feel like sharing those notes, the color library is always looking for contributions.
 
Here is an image of the blanks turned down. As Bsea said the 2nd from the bottom did have a nice swirl, it's just too bad I didn't do it all the way around the blank :/. One side has a swirl but the other is a crisp line. The blank above that one is one I poured last night but I was WAYYY too early on the pour.

I keep having issues with the timing.

Kinda dissapointed because I actually poured a glass of syrup to practice stiring so I could get the feel of the consistency that I should pour at:befuddled:

I assume that I'll need more practice on the timing but I did find that pouring the resin down a stick is a very good way to get a thin controlled pour of the PR.

2 things:
-Any additional advice on timing would be appreciated but I figure it'll just take more practice.

-How do you guys remove a small layer of the pr to get a look at the inside of the blank?

I used a skew chisel and a spindle gouge to remove a layer but I got a lot of chip outs and removed more material than I wanted.blank a little
 

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One thing I've learned is that applying an external heat source will really get the swirls going (just don't use anything that may ignite the fumes).
Also, have you tried "inserting" your second resin with a syringe (or turkey baster)? May give you more control over how far down you get it...
 
glycerine said:
One thing I've learned is that applying an external heat source will really get the swirls going (just don't use anything that may ignite the fumes).
Also, have you tried "inserting" your second resin with a syringe (or turkey baster)? May give you more control over how far down you get it...
Click to expand...

I'm actually preheating the resin and mold before I pour and from there I put the mold directly into a makeshift oven (cardboard box with girlfriends hairdrier):tongue:. Over the last few casts I've seen the resin circulate in the mold while it cures...I'm thinking this could be a issue though if the resin is too thin because it'll eliminate any defined swirls and just mix the resin together....

Haven't tried the turkey baster yet.. still need to get the timing down
:befuddled:
 
On the turning:

1) Sharpen
2) Take lighter cuts.
3) Chip outs will still happen

On the timing:

1) Get a clock and a thermometer. I work (usually) at room temp, so the notes in my logs are at that.
2) As I said: Keep notes
3) Just sit there gently stirring with the popsicle stick. If you pull it out and let the resin run off, you'll see the coating get thicker. And remember, the reaction runs faster as it progresses. So if you're thinking it's *almost* time to pour, pour it.
 
How are you pouring? When I pour a vertical blank, I try to alternate pouring the colors down each side. If I have a main color, I start with a little of that on the bottom, and pour additional colors. It's hard to describe, but I'm alternating colors from each hand as I go. What it looks like you did on the 2nd from the bottom is to pour all your blue, then white on top, and then stir to get some swirls.

As far as your blanks being brittle, there might be several reasons.

1. what kind of resin did you use? Casting Craft is supposed to be more brittle than Silmar 41 from US Composites.

2. What was the temp in the shop? If it was cold, it could contribute to the blanks being brittle.

3. And like jason r said, "Chip outs will happen."
 
I just started pouring by: Putting a layer of one color on the bottom, then alternate pouring both colors from side to side of the mold, then I top the blank with the opposite color I placed on the bottom.

I'm using simlar 41,

The temp in the shop is around 50-60F but I'm heating the resin and mold in a warm waterbath that I make from heating water in thr microwave. I just tried 2 more pours this afternoon and I'm currently using the make shift oven to cure the blanks a bit faster.

I tried 2 new colors today (purple and copper) and I used 4 drops of mepk, water water bath, 1 scoop of color in each, and I poured the 2 after waiting 28 minutes for the 2 resins to cure but I still get the feeling that I poured them too early yet again... If i did im going to try again but if it still doesn't work im going to make a sacrifical batch where I time how long it takes for the resin to cure without the intention of pouring the 2 colors.

Also apparently the orange resin is denser than the purple so I take it that next time I'll pour the purple 1st then the orange. This way I may be able to get trails as the orange moves through the purple naturally.

Let me know if this is a sound plan.

thanks
 
grz5 said:
I just started pouring by: Putting a layer of one color on the bottom, then alternate pouring both colors from side to side of the mold, then I top the blank with the opposite color I placed on the bottom.

I'm using simlar 41,

The temp in the shop is around 50-60F but I'm heating the resin and mold in a warm waterbath that I make from heating water in thr microwave. I just tried 2 more pours this afternoon and I'm currently using the make shift oven to cure the blanks a bit faster.

I tried 2 new colors today (purple and copper) and I used 4 drops of mepk, water water bath, 1 scoop of color in each, and I poured the 2 after waiting 28 minutes for the 2 resins to cure but I still get the feeling that I poured them too early yet again... If i did im going to try again but if it still doesn't work im going to make a sacrifical batch where I time how long it takes for the resin to cure without the intention of pouring the 2 colors.

Also apparently the orange resin is denser than the purple so I take it that next time I'll pour the purple 1st then the orange. This way I may be able to get trails as the orange moves through the purple naturally.

Let me know if this is a sound plan.

thanks
Click to expand...
That sounds like a good plan to me. And don't be too concerned about the time it takes for the resin to cure. I think I've told you that I've waited almost an hour to pour. That's not what I intended, but that's how it worked out. Sometime you just have to be patient. There are so many variables about the PR curing. And nothing will take the place of experience and good notes. Ok, well maybe a lab with constant temp & humidity might be helpful. :rolleyes:
 
Thanks again for all the help. This may be a strange question but does anyone have a picture of how the resin looks when it should be poured? I know this is a strange thing to ask but I'm thinking that an image of the resin dripping off the Popsicle stick will give me a good indication of what viscosity the resin should be when it's poured. If not i'll plan on making a sacrificial batch to get a better idea of how the resin "feels" before it turns.
 
grz5 said:
Thanks again for all the help. This may be a strange question but does anyone have a picture of how the resin looks when it should be poured? I know this is a strange thing to ask but I'm thinking that an image of the resin dripping off the Popsicle stick will give me a good indication of what viscosity the resin should be when it's poured. If not i'll plan on making a sacrificial batch to get a better idea of how the resin "feels" before it turns.
Click to expand...
That's actually a good quesation, but I think it would need to be a video to get a real good idea. One thing I did when I 1st started was I put some clear resin in a cup with no catalyst. Then you can at least compare how it "FEELS" when you stir it compared to the colored resin. To be honest, it didn't really help me much.

One other thing. Why make a sacrificial batch on purpose? You'll get a few without trying. I turned one of mine into a bottle stopper because it cured to much (and too fast) to even pour from the cup.:rolleyes:

I think your on the right track. You'll get better.
 
I usually pour mine when I get the first string in the cup as I stir. I heat mine sitting on top of a box that is covering a toaster. I dont preheat it before adding catalyst and try to do 3 drops to the ounce. dont know if that helps or not but its how I do it. I agree with the bottle stopper idea. Keep a piece of 1 1/2 pvc pipe about 4 inches long sitting beside your casting station tape the bottom of course. Pour all overflow in it and save it. they turn out amazing like these
penturningbio133.jpg
 
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firewhatfire said:
I usually pour mine when I get the first string in the cup as I stir. I heat mine sitting on top of a box that is covering a toaster. I dont preheat it before adding catalyst and try to do 3 drops to the ounce. dont know if that helps or not but its how I do it.
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What exactly do you mean by string? Sorry I'm having a hard time picturing what you mean exactly. :foot-in-mouth: I'm actually saving the overflow for pendants :biggrin: I have about 6 amboyna pendants in the works so naturally I wanted to add a few PR in there too
 
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I stir mine every few minutes checking to see if I think its ready. At some point as it gets ready to gel as I stir it catches a string of resin that is already past the liquid stage, it also means I need to get busy or it will be past mixing quick. It kinda reminds me of a string of snot or the first one I caught did as it was green.

Phil
 
grz5 said:
firewhatfire said:
I usually pour mine when I get the first string in the cup as I stir. I heat mine sitting on top of a box that is covering a toaster. I dont preheat it before adding catalyst and try to do 3 drops to the ounce. dont know if that helps or not but its how I do it.
Click to expand...

What exactly do you mean by string? Sorry I'm having a hard time picturing what you mean exactly. :foot-in-mouth: I'm actually saving the overflow for pendants :biggrin: I have about 6 amboyna pendants in the works so naturally I wanted to add a few PR in there too
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By the time you're getting a string it's awfully close to gelling.

One thing to watch is how much of the popsicle stick you can see. When the resin is thinner, so is the coating on the stick so you can see through it. As it thickens, you get a heavier coat and thus can't see the stick as well (or not at all).
 
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Here's a picture of my latest cast. I played with the amount of mica powder I added and achieved a semi transparent look where I'm able to see swirls within the blank :). As usual the camera doesn't do the blank the justice. lol. I'm going to try replicating the blank before I turn this one down :p. Have a feeling I may have gotten lucky but that remains to be seen.
 

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