Resin question..

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
M

Mkorish

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2021
Messages
36
Location
Onalaska, WI
Ok I've been using total boat resin for my resin/high bred pen blanks but it does get costly.

Are there any good resin suggestions that don't break the bank?

I do this has a hobby mostly but do like to sell them.

Thanks....
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I use Alumilite Clear Sliw for most of my casting. I see that your resin is an Epoxy Resin so they're not exactly the same. I like the Clear Slow over the Epoxy Resins but I'm sure there will be some that disagree.
 
Mkorish said:
Ok I've been using total boat resin for my resin/high bred pen blanks but it does get costly.

Are there any good resin suggestions that don't break the bank?

I do this has a hobby mostly but do like to sell them.

Thanks....
Click to expand...
Hello neighbor (we'll sort of. Closest I have seen on this site) While I have not done tons of casting I have successfully used epoxy from the epoxy resin store. I have bought it both on Amazon and directly. I will double check which type I used when I get home.
 
eteska said:
Hello neighbor (we'll sort of. Closest I have seen on this site) While I have not done tons of casting I have successfully used epoxy from the epoxy resin store. I have bought it both on Amazon and directly. I will double check which type I used when I get home.
Click to expand...
I double checked and I have used the general use version.

The good.. it's cheap $85 for the two gallon kit. Have had zero issues the pigments I have tried so far. (Mica powder and alcohol inks). It has adhered to every thing that I have tried it with.

The bad.. it is slow to set up. I leave it in the pressure pot a minimum of 24 hours often longer. I struggle to get much color separation. It does not take thread well or at all.

The company recommends max 1/2 inch pours. I'm not always good at following directions and have poured 2" blocks successfully but it takes even longer to fully cure. I typically wait about a week before cutting and turning.

I am certain there other "better" products out there. But it all depends on what you are looking for. I was looking for dirt cheap to experiment with techniques and crazy ideas that popped into my head.

If you have any questions or would like to see some of the results let me know.
 
eteska said:
I double checked and I have used the general use version.

The good.. it's cheap $85 for the two gallon kit. Have had zero issues the pigments I have tried so far. (Mica powder and alcohol inks). It has adhered to every thing that I have tried it with.

The bad.. it is slow to set up. I leave it in the pressure pot a minimum of 24 hours often longer. I struggle to get much color separation. It does not take thread well or at all.

The company recommends max 1/2 inch pours. I'm not always good at following directions and have poured 2" blocks successfully but it takes even longer to fully cure. I typically wait about a week before cutting and turning.

I am certain there other "better" products out there. But it all depends on what you are looking for. I was looking for dirt cheap to experiment with techniques and crazy ideas that popped into my head.

If you have any questions or would like to see some of the results let me know.
Click to expand...
That would be great to see some. I like pen turning because it doesn't take days to do.
 
Here are some different pens made with that epoxy. Epoxy with mica powder. Label cast. "Worthless" wood. 3D printed mold filled with epoxy. And imbedded object. Also included the last couple blocks that I haven't cut up yet.
 

Attachments

  • 8F90DD56-8801-4C6A-BED6-97CA73BD4780.jpeg
    8F90DD56-8801-4C6A-BED6-97CA73BD4780.jpeg
    296.1 KB · Views: 176
  • 9C2EF89F-178D-441A-B077-19BE06686DFC.jpeg
    9C2EF89F-178D-441A-B077-19BE06686DFC.jpeg
    284.8 KB · Views: 143
  • D4FB4B67-F66D-4384-94C3-C22A9E058642.jpeg
    D4FB4B67-F66D-4384-94C3-C22A9E058642.jpeg
    296.3 KB · Views: 139
  • D6A2B12B-07DB-40BD-B8B9-91412AC6C25B.jpeg
    D6A2B12B-07DB-40BD-B8B9-91412AC6C25B.jpeg
    270.2 KB · Views: 122
  • 8269CDFE-B57D-42B4-AFEE-B006AE7EFC24.jpeg
    8269CDFE-B57D-42B4-AFEE-B006AE7EFC24.jpeg
    285.6 KB · Views: 148
  • FC8DC878-2EEF-45A0-9575-494BB0D7BDDE.jpeg
    FC8DC878-2EEF-45A0-9575-494BB0D7BDDE.jpeg
    459.5 KB · Views: 126
  • 8517AB63-B980-4154-B6CF-B4B2BB3D0631.jpeg
    8517AB63-B980-4154-B6CF-B4B2BB3D0631.jpeg
    217.7 KB · Views: 141
eteska said:
Here are some different pens made with that epoxy. Epoxy with mica powder. Label cast. "Worthless" wood. 3D printed mold filled with epoxy. And imbedded object. Also included the last couple blocks that I haven't cut up yet.
Click to expand...
Those look good...
 
The way to get good resin cheap is simply bulk discount... Going to a cheaper product usually means you're giving up something. Could be that it'll yellow faster, it's not as strong, etc. Epoxy in general is going to yellow pretty quick without UV stabilizer and there's a cost to have that chemical added for the manufacturer. I guess what I'm trying to say is, don't sacrifice the quality of your product to save a buck.

Someone mentioned Royal Palm so it's probably worth mentioning that the company was purchased by Mike Hardin that owns Stadium Pen Blanks. He's brought it back to the market as JB Royal resin and it's on his website: https://stadiumpenblanks.com/

We primarily use Alumilite urethane in our casting but sometimes use some more industrial ones that cost 50-60% more than Alumilite. Good performance usually costs money. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom