Recommendations for a benchtop drill press

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putnamm

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The wife told me last night that, for my upcoming birthday, she and the kids want to get me a drill press for making pen blanks. But she needs some guidance on what to buy. I told her that, because space is at a premium in my shop (i.e. our garage), it should be a benchtop model. I also said it needs to have a three-inch stroke, at minimum.

Do any of you have recommendations on makes and models? Am I right with regard to the stroke distance? Is there any reason I should try to make room on my floor for a free standing model over a bench model?

Thanks for your suggestions.

Mark
 
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monophoto

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When I first got into turning, I bought a bench-top drill press, and I'm very glad that I did.

But having said that, if the only need is to drill pen blanks, its just as easy to do that on the lathe. You will need a chuck to hold the blank (a standard four-jaw scroll chuck is fine), and a jacobs chuck to hold the drill bit in the tailstock. The combined price of those two items will be greater than an entry-level bench-top drill press, but they don't take up bench-top space, and in a small shop that can be important. And since you probably will want those chucks for turning anyway,the economic issue may not matter.

Ernie is absolutely right - the quill throw in most smaller drill presses is less than the length of many pen blanks. But quill travel is also limited on may lathe tailstocks. In either case, there are some fairly simple solutions. When using a drill press, it is necessary to drill in multiple steps. Just have a few scraps of 3/4" thick wood or MDF that you can use to elevate the pen vise without changing the drill press setup. When drilling on the lathe, back the quill into the tailstock, and then move the entire tailstock forward to take a further 'bite'.
 
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TonyL

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This doesn't answer your question, but I have this floor model. It has a 4 inch throw and mine has very little run-out (at least from my measurements). I am sure it is no way near the quality of the model that cost twice or three times as much, but I like it. I also drill on my lathe.

Shop Presses & Lathes at Lowes.com#!
 

gratz

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years ago Rikon used to have a summer 'yard sale' of returns or refurbished units and I got a bench top drill press there, 3" stroke, great machine!

Gratz
 

chartle

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Harbor Freight has a 3"+ travel bench top drill press but it needs a low bench top since its pretty tall. Basically their floor model with a shorter post.

With my small bench top drill press I had to do the stacks of scraps to raise the blank and had mixed results.

I just started drilling blanks on my small HF lathe and I'm not going back. The lathe tailstock travel is even less than my drill press so I have to do 3 runs at it but the results don't compare in ease and accuracy.
 

jttheclockman

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Hello Mark

I will throw my opinion out there as others have done. Just like when Tony asked about a bench top bandsaw recently I will state that you would be happier with a full standing unit. You will get more bang for your buck. The biggest features of course would be longer depth travel and greater depth to center. Plus they really do not take up any more room than a bench top unit when it comes down to it. Yes you can get variable speed (other than belt changing), but you can get that in a bench top also.

With that said, unlike a bench top bandsaw, the bench top drill presses are highly rated and reliable and choosing one over the other is not easy until you get into little things that add to the price. Remember though that these tools are heavy and if you plan on lifting every time to put on a bench when you want to use is a factor. If you are going to store on a bench then as I said you took up as much room as if you had a floor standing model.

To me I would stay away from the VS models. Very easy to change speeds with the belt system. Plenty of room and more reliable. So the one I would suggest because of certain features is the Jet 354165 (JDP-15M) 3-1/4" stroke, largest table on the market, long pull down handles. and not VS but belt driven. Plenty of power 3/4HP motor and 15" to center drill capacity. But stands taller than most so that has to be recognized. But nice tool if you are going that way.

Just an opinion.
 

plantman

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Mark; This would be my advice. If you don't already have a drill press, go for the floor model. You will find many other uses for the drill press once you have one besides drilling pen blanks. The floor model will not take up any bench space, will have a much longer travel, is considerably much more sturdy to handle larger work pieces, have greater depth to the post, and more powerful motors. Plus you can mount it on wheels and move it around where and when you need it. As far as VS, I have a belt drive on my bench top drill and a VS on my upright. I don't change either one of them when I drill, nor do I use the lasers for alignment. Now for drilling blanks. I usually don't use either one, but instead use my mini lathe to drill. I have a Barracuda C chuck with Pen Blank Drilling jaws installed. You should be able to find these jaws to fit the chuck you now have. They only make contact on two points to center any object you place into them no matter what size or shape they may be. Cost for mine $22.95 PSI. A three jaw chuck will hold round objects well, but will not center or hold object that do not have flat sides. A 4 jaw chuck will hold both round and uneven shapes but requires adjusting all four jaws in order to center the stock. It will, however, allow you to drill off center in order to obtain a better grain pattern. Buy the best you can afford at the time as this is something you will pass on to others. Jim S
 
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jttheclockman

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I bought this one for second shop, it has 3.25 quill travel. http://www.amazon.com/RIKON-30-120-13-Inch-Drill-Press/dp/B002FB74WO

But be advised it is a big bench top, way too big for the average bench.



This one too seems like a very tall unit so again you really do not gain anything with the footprint of it.

How are those handwheels to deal with??? They look real awkward to use. Sometimes these companies try to reinvent the wheel when the wheel does not need reinventing.:)
 

dogcatcher

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The hand wheel is weird, but they work okay. This drill press should have a longer column it would be a good floor drill press. I like it, and the quill travel gives me the benefit of the more expensive drill presses.

I am disabled and I use a stool to sit on while I work, I have the drill press mounted on a stand that is 12" high. So basically I made it into a stand alone drill press. Like the other Rikon equipment I have bought, the fit and finish is just "so so" not the best of the tools. But I have had it 2 years, I have worked it hard and have not had any problems.
 

jttheclockman

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The hand wheel is weird, but they work okay. This drill press should have a longer column it would be a good floor drill press. I like it, and the quill travel gives me the benefit of the more expensive drill presses.

I am disabled and I use a stool to sit on while I work, I have the drill press mounted on a stand that is 12" high. So basically I made it into a stand alone drill press. Like the other Rikon equipment I have bought, the fit and finish is just "so so" not the best of the tools. But I have had it 2 years, I have worked it hard and have not had any problems.

Thanks for the feedback. As you say it probably is as large as the one I linked to also. Pretty darn close to a floor model except for the center spacing.
 

Bikerdad

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Floor model. You can build/refurb a cabinet to go under it, on wheels, so your net space change is effectively zero. If you have to lower the drill press table a lot, you just roll the cabinet out of the way, when you're done, raise the table, roll the cabinet back into place.

Of course, sometimes space is so tight, (i.e., a bunch of built in cabinets that can't be altered/removed) that a bench top model is the only alternative. If so, then remember that with a long drill bit you can effectively cheat the quill distance. Bury the bit in the chuck, drill to max quill extension, raise the quill, loosen chuck, extend the bit some (often into the just drilled hole), tighten chuck, drill again. This isn't going to get you machinist level tolerances (which you won't get on a garden variety drill press anyway), but it will get you through pretty much any blank. Doing this you have to be really mindful of chip clearing, but it does work.
 

BSea

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I got the biggest bench top DP I could find. It works fine for most things including pen blanks. But then if you ever want to drill a longer spindle (like for a custom tool handle), it won't work. It's just not big enough. Even though I've used my DP a lot, i'd buy a floor model if I was buying one today. And my garage is my shop too.
 

studioseven

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Occasionally you are going to come across a blank that no matter what speed you use, what type of bit you use, or how sharp the bit is, this blank will tend to shatter when you drill your hole in it. On these type of blanks, its nice to glue a scrap piece on the bottom. So even limiting yourself to 3" of travel might not be enough. Since a floor model won't work, I'd recommend buying the equipment needed to drill using your lathe.

Seven
 

TurtleTom

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I don't see why travel should matter anyway, as I'm sure most turners cut the blanks to size before drilling. I do at any rate. I never have any problems unless I'm doing inlays and I always do those on the lathe for the better control.
 
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