Rattlesnake Casting

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
A

arv

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2007
Messages
6
Location
Layton, UT, USA.
I am trying to cast some rattlesnake blanks. I purchased a silicone mold that appears to be working very well. I started off by painting the brass with camo colored spray paint and let it dry a week. I then CA glued on rattlesnake skin (tanned with glycerin process). After waiting 24-hours for the CA to dry, I trimmed the skin even with the ends of the brass. I then applied CA to the ends to seal and let dry for a week. I then cast two blanks using Alumilite mixed at 1:1. I preheated the mold to 150 F. I poured the alumilite into the molt trying to keep all the bubbles out (didn't get them all out so next time I tried something different which I will explain later). Apparently, after the alumilite had set, a "foam" formed right around the skin - wasn't there before set or at least didn't notice it but well noticeable now. After that casting, I tried two different things. Thinking that maybe the skins were off-gassing, I completely coated the skins with three coats of thin CA glue and let dry for one week. While casting, I rotated the blanks inside the mold to make sure that a good coating was on the skin (also trying to get rid of bubbles). Once again, the casting looked good (no bubbles at all) until after setting. Once again, the foam showed up. What's up???? I need some help. Thanks.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I hope that Curtis Seebeck comments regarding this since I personally have not tried this. You are on the right track and ready to have flawless success if you will buy some poly resin(casting craft, or silmar 41) and use that instead. I have wanted to try the same method but so many people have said that alumilite just dies not work with "tube-on" casting
 
seamus7227 said:
I hope that Curtis Seebeck comments regarding this since I personally have not tried this. You are on the right track and ready to have flawless success if you will buy some poly resin(casting craft, or silmar 41) and use that instead. I have wanted to try the same method but so many people have said that alumilite just dies not work with "tube-on" casting
Click to expand...

I agree with seamus7227. Silmar 41 works with snakeskin "tube-on" casting and it has been proven time and again. One thing that I can think of that can cause the foam or "whiting" or "ghosting" of the snakeskin blank can be found with the glycerin itself. Though glycerin works great to keep the skin conditioned, it will never be totally dry and moisture is a "no-no" when casting. The blanks that foamed, were the skin portions wiped down front and back with DNA (de-natured alcohol) before casting?
 
I think as long as the skins were tanned using a Glycerine/Alcohol (50/50) mixture, then you should be ok, the problem lies within the resin you were casting with, not necessarily because you didnt wipe them down with alcohol.
 
If this hijacks the thread please forgive me...

Does the CA need to off-gas for a whole week with PR? How about 24 hrs instead?

I was thinking about trying CA in my next carbon fiber cast.

Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom