jttheclockman
Member
If you took a wood pen blank and drilled some holes in on the face and then filled with resin, will the resin adhere to the wood or will it shrink and fall out??? Thinking out loud.
Question???
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DSallee
Member
Hey John
I'd think it would adhere to the wood fibers and be ok and not fall out or shrink...
Dave
I'd think it would adhere to the wood fibers and be ok and not fall out or shrink...
Dave
nava1uni
Member
Only if you don't drill all the way through. If you are just going to do shallow hole. Fill them with Jel CA and you could even color it. I do this with designs and also when I am going to do inlay. You can turn it with no problem. It is a similar process. If you are drilling all the way through you will need to have some sort of backing to stop the resin from flowing through.
jttheclockman
Member
I will be drilling all the way through. I was hoping the wood did not act like a mold where it realeases from the edges. I gues I will have to experiment.
doddman70
Member
I have done this and it turned out fine. i did do it under preasure. I'm not sure how it would turn out if not done in a preasure pot.
YoYoSpin
Member
The type of wood you use will influence your results. Open grained woods will give the resin something to hang onto…maple, redheart, yellowheart, mesquite. Oily closed grain woods like cocobolo, ebony, pink ivory and kingwood will not work well with resin.
Daniel
Member
I am not completely sure about this but the acrylic does have some shrinkage. in my experience not a lot though. so two ideas come to mind. first is to drill a waste block and cast your acrylic pieces in that. once they cure you can measure them for the final diameter and then drill your blank for a tight fit. your concern then would be that the wood expends and contracts.
second idea is to drill and cast in the pen blank itself. once set just apply a little thin Ca to fill any gaps that do form (provided they are very small) this would then solve any shrinkage problem.
second idea is to drill and cast in the pen blank itself. once set just apply a little thin Ca to fill any gaps that do form (provided they are very small) this would then solve any shrinkage problem.
Russianwolf
Member
Karl has done quite few PR worthless wood castings. They turned out fine for me. I do believe he did his under pressure also.
jttheclockman
Member
I am looking at a lite colored maple or even holly.
Let me ask another question then, what about casting an acrlylic blank in white and then drilling this and adding the holes and filling with more acrylic of a different color???? I can not cast as all one piece because what I want to do would be random. The more and more I think about this the more ideas I come up with but not sure any will work. Here would be the final idea. Make an acrylic blank cut my shapes and then glue them to the tube in random spacings like I want then pour the white acrylic over the entire tube and let cure in a mold. Hopefully the white acrylic would seep around all the pieces and adhere to both the tube and the pieces. Does this sound more feasible??? I am worried about the fusion of one acrylic to another or acrylic to wood.
Now that I read Daniels ideas I think he might have touched on what I was thinking.
Let me ask another question then, what about casting an acrlylic blank in white and then drilling this and adding the holes and filling with more acrylic of a different color???? I can not cast as all one piece because what I want to do would be random. The more and more I think about this the more ideas I come up with but not sure any will work. Here would be the final idea. Make an acrylic blank cut my shapes and then glue them to the tube in random spacings like I want then pour the white acrylic over the entire tube and let cure in a mold. Hopefully the white acrylic would seep around all the pieces and adhere to both the tube and the pieces. Does this sound more feasible??? I am worried about the fusion of one acrylic to another or acrylic to wood.
Now that I read Daniels ideas I think he might have touched on what I was thinking.
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YoYoSpin
Member
jttheclockman
Member
Ed do you have a tutorial anywhere or if you will answer a question, can you give me a little insight how you did the blue one??? Where the holes on the side drilled first and then you poured the resin in and it filled both the top and holes while being supported in a mold. I want to do something on those lines to a pen body. Thanks. Will check the archieves.
Ed
being you work acrylics alot can you answer the second part of my after thought about using acrylics instead of wood??? If I substitue an acrylic blank and drill my holes can I pour other colored acrylics in it and will it adhere to it??? Thanks alot.
Ed
being you work acrylics alot can you answer the second part of my after thought about using acrylics instead of wood??? If I substitue an acrylic blank and drill my holes can I pour other colored acrylics in it and will it adhere to it??? Thanks alot.
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YoYoSpin
Member
John,
I don't have a tutorial on this process, but I should add that to my list of to-do's. It's really pretty simple:
1) Turn the part to the rough dimensions of the finished piece, plus about 1/32" for later finishing.
2) Using a Oneway Drill Wizard and your lathe's indexing feature, precisely drill a series of holes around the piece.
3) In the case of a bottle stopper, drill another hole in the top of the stopper using a drill-chuck in your tailstock. Here's the rub…for a pen, you'll need an access hole to pour the resin into.
4) Remove the piece from the lathe and wrap the newly drilled side-holes with masking tape.
5) Using the access hole on top of the stopper, fill the cavity with resin.
6) After curing, remove the masking tape, re-mount the piece on your lathe and finish the part.
For a pen-specific hole filling/embellishment tutorial, dial in to this photo how-to I made several years ago.
When you say "acrylic", I'm assuming you really mean polyester resin or some other form of casting resin. Yes, wet resin will bond with dry resin very well. The only issue I'd anticipate is that when you drill the holes in your cast and cured resin blank, the hole's surface will be rough and may capture some bubbles or other nastiness when you pour in the secondary resin fill.
I don't have a tutorial on this process, but I should add that to my list of to-do's. It's really pretty simple:
1) Turn the part to the rough dimensions of the finished piece, plus about 1/32" for later finishing.
2) Using a Oneway Drill Wizard and your lathe's indexing feature, precisely drill a series of holes around the piece.
3) In the case of a bottle stopper, drill another hole in the top of the stopper using a drill-chuck in your tailstock. Here's the rub…for a pen, you'll need an access hole to pour the resin into.
4) Remove the piece from the lathe and wrap the newly drilled side-holes with masking tape.
5) Using the access hole on top of the stopper, fill the cavity with resin.
6) After curing, remove the masking tape, re-mount the piece on your lathe and finish the part.
For a pen-specific hole filling/embellishment tutorial, dial in to this photo how-to I made several years ago.
When you say "acrylic", I'm assuming you really mean polyester resin or some other form of casting resin. Yes, wet resin will bond with dry resin very well. The only issue I'd anticipate is that when you drill the holes in your cast and cured resin blank, the hole's surface will be rough and may capture some bubbles or other nastiness when you pour in the secondary resin fill.
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jttheclockman
Member
Ed
That is an excellent explanation. I am going to try it both ways, with wood and with resins. Thanks for the info.
That is an excellent explanation. I am going to try it both ways, with wood and with resins. Thanks for the info.