Question on pressure for clear blanks

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klynn

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I was asked to make a bunch of customized pens for police dept, so this once again a donation on my part.

I was going to use Alumilite for the first time to create the label in tube blanks. But since this will be a donation, I'm not looking forward to buy a pressure pot, even the pressure pot from Harbor F.

What is the MINIMUM amount of pressure needed to get rid of all the air bubbles and make sure the cured blank is crystal clear?

Thanks
 
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I will leave this to those who use Alumilite. Just get all your ducks in a row before you commit to casting for a commitment. Labels need to be adaptable to resin. John U and many others here can help. There are also many threads on this. Need to do your homework. Good luck.
 
Make sure you're using "matte weather proof" labels with the Alumilite "clear" resin, and leave a slight overlap at the seam when you wrap them on the tubes so they don't lift in resin. They are pretty easy to use, print, peel, stick and cast. Warm them up prior to pouring the resin so it adheres well. Here's the labels I use with great success….

Weatherproof Label Paper 8.5 x 11 - Matte - For Ink Jet Printers

Full sheet label, (also known as sticker paper), has no back slits on the liner and measures 8.5" x 11". It can be used in a variety of applications and is compatible with all of the most popular electronic cutting machines, including Cricut.Choose your Package size from the drop-down menuSize...
www.exoticblanks.com www.exoticblanks.com
 
My pot is rated for 80 psi maximum. I use 55 psi for all the resins I use. Some go as low as 30-35 psi. Just get the resin mixed and poured then in the pot. Not to rush those steps just don't dally around. The main thing is don't push the maximum pressure for your pot. If you do you run the risk of making a bomb. Stay Safe and have fun. It's just another rabbit hole off the highway of pen turning. It will take up the same time and money turning does. The only difference is the amount of each depending on how much you dive into it.
 
JohnU said:
Make sure you're using "matte weather proof" labels with the Alumilite "clear" resin, and leave a slight overlap at the seam when you wrap them on the tubes so they don't lift in resin. They are pretty easy to use, print, peel, stick and cast. Warm them up prior to pouring the resin so it adheres well.
Click to expand...

Apologies for hijacking the thread

John - do you know if those labels will work in a laserjet, or should I look at something like this?

Oh and @klynn, I know you were looking to keep costs down so you might want to test out the sample of waterproof labels you can from https://www.onlinelabels.com/samples/finder (at least that's what I'm going to try out)
 
To avoid the cost of a pressure pot and compressor if you don't already have one of those you could try one of the slow thin resins that are claimed to give bubble free results without the need for pressure, downside is it takes about a week to cure 😞
 
Darios said:
Apologies for hijacking the thread

John - do you know if those labels will work in a laserjet, or should I look at something like this?

Oh and @klynn, I know you were looking to keep costs down so you might want to test out the sample of waterproof labels you can from https://www.onlinelabels.com/samples/finder
Click to expand...
They sell both types… for ink Jet and laser jet so be sure to get the right ones for your printer. You will get the same results from the labels at onlinelabels.com but they only sell them in large quantities so if you aren't going to do a lot of them you will be spending a lot of money. ExoticBlanks.com sells them in several quantities.
 
Paul-H said:
To avoid the cost of a pressure pot and compressor if you don't already have one of those you could try one of the slow thin resins that are claimed to give bubble free results without the need for pressure, downside is it takes about a week to cure 😞
Click to expand...
Most the thin set resins that dont need pressure are epoxy resins. Be sure to read up on what you get because most thin sets are supposed to be poured in 1/4"-1/2" depths at a time. Some also stay flexible for 5-10 days after demolded. Trying to save $100 not building a pressure pot can easily be exceeded by having to buy resins and remake blanks when they dont turn out, so be sure to read up and ask plenty of questions here so you get answers from
others who have had success with what you are trying to do.
 
JohnU said:
They sell both types… for ink Jet and laser jet so be sure to get the right ones for your printer. You will get the same results from the labels at onlinelabels.com but they only sell them in large quantities so if you aren't going to do a lot of them you will be spending a lot of money. ExoticBlanks.com sells them in several quantities.
Click to expand...
Thanks - onlinelabels was just to test the paper itself before committing.
 
I've used 100's of the "inkjet weatherproof" labels with great success in several different inkjet printers, from photographs, logos, and computer generated images.
 
There is a good video on the Penn State website about casting blanks with labels. The man who does the video does not use a pressure pot to cure the blank. He also has some good advice on printing and applying the labels.
 
Make sure to use a good quality ink in your inkjet printer. I was wondering why the solid black background I had on some labels I was just printing was coming out a very, very very dark navy blue. I checked, and my ink I had was an off brand. I ordered Hewlett-Packard black for my printer yesterday. Got it this morning and reprinted printed the labels. This time they came out black. You can see a very noticeable difference between the two shades.
 
klynn said:
I was asked to make a bunch of customized pens for police dept, so this once again a donation on my part.

I was going to use Alumilite for the first time to create the label in tube blanks. But since this will be a donation, I'm not looking forward to buy a pressure pot, even the pressure pot from Harbor F.

What is the MINIMUM amount of pressure needed to get rid of all the air bubbles and make sure the cured blank is crystal clear?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Depending on where you are in MA, you could come to my shop and use my casting equipment for your project if that would help. I am located in the MetroWest Boston area.
 
Lew said:
There is a good video on the Penn State website about casting blanks with labels. The man who does the video does not use a pressure pot to cure the blank. He also has some good advice on printing and applying the labels.
Click to expand...

This one -
?
 
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