Problems with Ebony Scratches

[DonsWoodworking]

I am new to turning pens. I had a couple of ebony blanks from another project and attempted to turn one of them into the body of a fountain pen. I cannot seem to get the scratches out. I have run patiently through all of the grits up to 600, then finished by running through all of the grits of micro mesh and there are still rotational (cross grain) scratches. I have gone back through all of the steps three times, each time more patient than the last, finally using a few drops of water during the micromesh steps. The water seemed to help but the blanks still show fine scratches. Has anyone else had this problem or does anyone have any suggestions for me? Thanks. Don

 

[SteveG]

I suggest that you refrain from using water on unfinished wood, as a general practice.

The problem you describe is the result of failing to sand the blank lengthwise (lathe off), for EACH grit that you use. Try that, and probably your scratches will go away.

 

[CREID]

You should try stopping the lathe between sandpaper grits and sand lengthwise to reduce rotational scratches. You also might have started with too low a grit and put some real deep scratches in that you haven't gotten out or you might have contaminated your MM with something that keeps scratching the blank. Hope this helps.

Curt


Curt

 

[TonyL]

This link may help. I don't use this approach any more because I grew bored of wet sanding, and now use several buffing wheels. The link has dozens of responses from experienced turners. However, I do look forward to learning if anyone has come up with a new techniques or steps. Thank you posting the question.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/well-i-thought-i-achieved-scratch-free-121298/

 

[KenV]

The ebony I have turned is very dense wood. Scratches once in the surface are not trivial to remove. A fast process without taking time to inspect programs before proceeding results in experiences like yours. Breather and done that.

The inspection involves wiping down the pen section and inspecting carefully. A light across the surface helps show scratches.

All scratches of an even size before the next grit.

Take your time to get it good before proceeding to the next grit.

 

[DonsWoodworking]

Steve: I agree... but I got desperate.

 

[DonsWoodworking]

Thanks

Thanks all. I'll try the lengthwise sanding tomorrow and the other suggestions. I appreciate the input. Thanks! Don

 

[mmayo]

I have turned several ebony pens and they humble you quickly. Just keep sanding carefully at least twice as long, but NOT twice as hard. Anyone can shine up typical acrylics or woods like bloodwood, ebony is a real test of skill and patience. It is not you.

I will ask more for an ebony pen due the time and trouble it takes to get it right.

 

[TurtleTom]

Having made violin necks, I can sympathize. Don't use water, if anything use Lemon oil, it will lubricate the micro mesh and make it last 10 times longer.
When I have this trouble I will change sanding direction each grit until I can't see any marks going the other way before I change grits again. Then I go the other direction again, and repeat till they are all gone. Each time you change grits wipe the part down, just not water. If you really want to see what's going on down there get a 40 power loupe.
Be sure to go slow with the rpm.

 

[farmer]

Wood

I am new to turning pens. I had a couple of ebony blanks from another project and attempted to turn one of them into the body of a fountain pen. I cannot seem to get the scratches out. I have run patiently through all of the grits up to 600, then finished by running through all of the grits of micro mesh and there are still rotational (cross grain) scratches. I have gone back through all of the steps three times, each time more patient than the last, finally using a few drops of water during the micromesh steps. The water seemed to help but the blanks still show fine scratches. Has anyone else had this problem or does anyone have any suggestions for me? Thanks. Don

Don't cut or sand across the grain.......

Well that should get some of you guys thinking

 

[Bikerdad]

I suggest that you refrain from using water on unfinished wood, as a general practice.

There's nothing wrong with using water on unfinished wood, as long as you know what you're doing. Raising the grain using water is a standard practice in finishing when working with water based finishes and/or stains. For woods with extreme differences in hardness between early/latewood, I can see it presenting more challenges, and there may be some specific species where it's problematic, but in general, it's not a problem

 

[jalbert]

I usually start at 220 grit with the lathe running, then sand longitudinally with 220 with the lathe off. I then sand only longitudinally with All subsequent grits, up to 12000 micro mesh. I got tired of dealing with radial scratches, so I don't bother sanding while the lathe is running. I haven't found it to be any more work, and I rarely get any scratches anymore.

-John