Problems with Alumilite

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Laurenr

Laurenr

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Spokane Valley, Washington
Since I can't figure out how to send an attachment to Curtis, through our Private Message system, I will just post the photos here.

This should be Crystal Clear Alumilite? What am I doing wrong? I measured both parts on a digital scale. etc? Ideas?
 

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Might not be the right kinds of plastic cups? Looks like the resin is
reacting with the plastic. Just a guess..
 
I'm sure the alumilite experts will chime in at some point but from I think I remember reading alumilite will turn milky white like that when it comes in contact with water.
 
Not a plastic cup problem. I have mixed and cast Alumilite in every kind of container imaginable. Also does not look like a moisture problem since moisture would normally cause foaming and the volume of resin would have increased significantly. Also, I talked to Lauren this evening and he is in Utah. Humidity is not a problem!

I believe it is a resin problem. It really looks to me like White Alumilite rather than Crystal Clear. When talking with Lauren, I brought this up but he read the label and confirmed the label said Crystal Clear. I wonder if it is possible that Alumilite mis-packaged something?

I have not seen this issue and I have been using Alumilite longer than just about anyone on this forum. Contact Mike or Carol at Alumilite and have them send you a new batch of resin.
 
I can't tell, is it the cup that turned white or the resin? Some of the clear plastic cups I use, the bottom area of the cup turns white like that too, but the resin itself is completely un-affected and still totally clear. If the resin turned white, you have a problem, but if only the bottom of the cup itself turned white, you have no problems.

If it is like Curtis said..mis packaged, then one of the two parts should be white in the container should it not? I have never purchased the white alumilite before.

If you have to send it back, it will be no problem, they will work with you and send you a label to send it back and send you a new one, but the bummer part is that they will charge you for the new batch until they get their old batch back and then they will credit the double charge.
 
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I've had the crystal clear turn a milky white a few times, it was normally a temp/moisture issue. It didn't foam up but it did turn milky and it happens every once in a while, I have to figure it is a humidity issue, not enough water to cause foam but close.
 
workinforwood said:
I can't tell, is it the cup that turned white or the resin? Some of the clear plastic cups I use, the bottom area of the cup turns white like that too, but the resin itself is completely un-affected and still totally clear. If the resin turned white, you have a problem, but if only the bottom of the cup itself turned white, you have no problems.

If it is like Curtis said..mis packaged, then one of the two parts should be white in the container should it not? I have never purchased the white alumilite before.

If you have to send it back, it will be no problem, they will work with you and send you a label to send it back and send you a new one, but the bummer part is that they will charge you for the new batch until they get their old batch back and then they will credit the double charge.
Click to expand...
Like Jeff said, the white is a different color, the containers would contain a clear and a yellowish liquids.
 
Jeff, Alumilite white is not white before it sets. One part is clear and the other is a yellowish color. When mixed, they become clear and when it sets, it turns opaque white like the picture above.

Neil, he is in Utah so I doubt humidity is the problem and he was casting is a new, dry cup.
 
Ah...and the Crystal clear is also an ambery tinted color, which could make it confusing. Sometimes the CC is clear in both A and B, but not always. The last batch I got was really yellowy in the B side if I remember right. I had to return it because it yeilded clear blanks that were not totally clear as they had a look like clear plastic that had aged with yellow like tint. So they replaced that. This batch I have now is the same, really dark and yellowy on one of the sides, I think the A side..actually is the yellowy side. It is not a problem though as I have no clear blanks to cast. I was told it has to do with the quality of materials used in the batch..it's getting harder and more expensive to get more pure chemicals to make the product, and unless you want totally clear blanks, then the quality of the end product is the same.

I guess he probably got a confused batch of white alumilite. On the far outside chance..perhaps he mixed with a damp stick..but I doubt it.
 
How much did you pour ? Did the poured part turn white also, or just what was left in the cup. The reason I asked is because in the first photo at 11:00 it looks like something ran down in to the cup. is there any chance that some liquid dripped in to the cup after you did the pour?
 
Problem solved. I spoke with the Alumilite people this morning and they suggested that I was mixing in too small quantities, ( I was just experimenting and wanted to be frugal). They suggested I mix one ounce of each for a two ounce batch. I did so and the material came out Crystal Clear.

I do agree with a previous post that suggested it might be a bit on the yellow side, but I don't think that will be a problem for me, in that most everything I will be doing, I will be adding dyes.

Thank you all for your help.

Lauren
 
Water Clear is the original clear Alumilite and Crystal Clear is the new clear alumilite that I helped them develop to more closely meet the needs of the penturner. Crystal Clear has a longer open time and polishes as good as PR.
 
Well crap, then the store I ordered this stuff from has the wrong product. Know wonder it hasn't been polishing like I want.

I bought 2 of the 32oz kits from a local hobby store. $50 some bucks down the drain. Shame to I just opened up the 2nd set of bottles.
 
Laurenr said:
Problem solved. I spoke with the Alumilite people this morning and they suggested that I was mixing in too small quantities, ( I was just experimenting and wanted to be frugal). They suggested I mix one ounce of each for a two ounce batch. I did so and the material came out Crystal Clear.

I do agree with a previous post that suggested it might be a bit on the yellow side, but I don't think that will be a problem for me, in that most everything I will be doing, I will be adding dyes.

Thank you all for your help.

Lauren
Click to expand...

Would seem odd that you need to mix large batches to obtain a clear mix? There must be some kind of science to this...did they explain?

What if you only needed a total of 1oz, instead of 2oz....are you supposed to just waste the other half!!!




Scott (something sounds fishy) B
 
The issue is with the A side. Too much A will cause the mix to go milky. So the smaller the batch, the smaller the increments of measure. They suggested that I go for a bigger batch just to test the product. With careful measuring one should be able to mix as small a batch as one wishes, it's just that it gets more difficult as the amounts get smaller.

The first couple of tests I ran were just eyeball measured because I hadn't picked up a digital scale. Apparently my eyeballs weren't accurate enough. My new scale measures to 0.1 oz so I theoretically should be able to mix a much smaller amount, ...with care.

No I don't think they are trying to get me to use an excessive amount of product, but they do seem interested in my using it correctly. Uhmm, seems to me, that is what we might call good business.:biggrin:

OK, everybody back to work!
 
Yep...you can mix less than an ounce no problem, but the weights are more critical I'm sure as there would logically be less breathing room... like if you mix 5.5 of A with 5.3 B, it won't be a big deal.

If you have water clear and it doesn't polish up good enough for you, then simply apply a few coats of CA..it'll stick just fine and basically you'll just have an acrylic pen with a CA finish is all. Not a total loss at all.
 
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