Printing labels for casting

[Chung96]

Hey Boys and Girls,

Kinda new to casting.

I had a logo image on the computer and printed it on an Avery label, and casted a clear poly blank. It looks kind of washed out. Like when you print a photo on regular paper.

I was thinking of using photo paper and gluing it on but that be a little tricky since the paper is kind of thick.

What do you guys do about that?

Thanks

 

[seamus7227]

use standard avery shipping labels (5183 or 5163) and after you have wrapped them around your tube(that has been powdercoated white so your design stands out), then wipe a nice coat of med CA over that and let cure for 24-48 hours, then cast

 

[dbledsoe]

You can also use water slide labels. The come in white or clear background and they are very thin.
You should also spray a couple of coats of clear acrylic or Modge Podge on the printed label to stabilize it before casting. Let it cure overnight.

 

[navycop]

You can also use water slide labels. The come in white or clear background and they are very thin.
You should also spray a couple of coats of clear acrylic or Modge Podge on the printed label to stabilize it before casting. Let it cure overnight.

Can you give a model number for these? I didn't know they had water slide labels. I have just used decals.

 

[Chung96]

Powder Coating?

I'm confused. I thought my label looked washed out because the ink was bleeding into the paper, just like printing a photo on non photo paper

What does the powder coating do? Isn't too late?

Thanks

 

[airborne_r6]

I'm confused. I thought my label looked washed out because the ink was bleeding into the paper, just like printing a photo on non photo paper

What does the powder coating do? Isn't too late?

Thanks

Its not so much the ink bleeding into the paper as the resin affecting the ink. It will happen with the photo-paper also.

To solve this problem the decal needs to be sealed after applying it to the tube and before casting. Popular methods to due this are with CA, Modge Podge and Krylon clear (not sure which one exactly). Make sure that whatever method you use to seal the decal is completely cured before casting.

I believe the powder coat is used to make the tube white so that when you apply the label over it the brass color doesn't show through and helps your design to be more prominent.

All of these things must be done before casting.

 

[seamus7227]

Popular methods to do this are with CA, Modge Podge and Krylon clear (not sure which one exactly). Make sure that whatever method you use to seal the decal is completely cured before casting.

I believe the powder coat is used to make the tube white so that when you apply the label over it the brass color doesn't show through and helps your design to be more prominent.

All of these things must be done before casting.

this is the method that i use, but you may need to try all of them to determine which will work best for you.

He also took the words out of my mouth on the powder coating reason!

 

[Chung96]

Thanks

Ok. Think I get it now.

Let me try to count the hours you guys have saved me.

BTW, Can I just paint the tube? Don't know if I want to get into yet another thing. Although, it is a chance to buy more stuff for the shop.:sm

 

[its_virgil]

I paint the tubes. I do not seal over the printed label. I get excellent results.
Have you looked in the library? If not, you may find these two articles of interest.

http://content.penturners.org/library/pen_blanks/casting_pen_blanks.pdf
http://content.penturners.org/library/techniques/casting_bubble_free.pdf

Also, have you searched the site for threads about casting labels? There have been lots of postings about casting labels and they are loaded with information.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Ok. Think I get it now.

Let me try to count the hours you guys have saved me.

BTW, Can I just paint the tube? Don't know if I want to get into yet another thing. Although, it is a chance to buy more stuff for the shop.:sm

 

[seamus7227]

BTW, Can I just paint the tube? Don't know if I want to get into yet another thing. Although, it is a chance to buy more stuff for the shop.:sm

I was using krylon flat black spray paint, but that stuff takes about 2 days to fully cure and i can powder coat tubes and bake them in the toaster oven and be ready to use them in about an hour(from start to finish). The added expense has more than paid for itself many times over!

 

[joefyffe]

Seamus is on the mark! If you start powder coating, you will probably not want to paint again. Also, if you have a tendency to sometimes glue a bit "snug" you will find the p/c more durable. (less likely to scratch!) www.powderbuythepound.com is a good place to buy powder. I've had adequate results with the Harbor Freight equipment. I'm sure it's not the best but it works for me!

 

[its_virgil]

I started powdercoating tubes years ago then went back to painting. Started powdercoating again recently and have gone back to painting. When powdercoating I plug the top hole of the tube but powder still gets into the other hole and reduces the inner diameter of the tube. Bushing do not fit. Way too much time is spent getting the powder coating out of the end of the tubes. Maybe I'm just not smart enough to figure out how to keep powder out of the tube.

Painting works excellently for me..both labels and snake skins. So, I have gone back to painting. Painting is faster and much less messy. But, the painted tubes must dry and cure for a couple of days. Powder coating is faster in the long run but messy. Maybe I need to redesign my powdercoating rack so both ends of the tubes can be plugged. Not sure that is possible.

Powdercoating is an excellent way to treat the tubes but is not the only way that works.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Seamus is on the mark! If you start powder coating, you will probably not want to paint again. Also, if you have a tendency to sometimes glue a bit "snug" you will find the p/c more durable. (less likely to scratch!) www.powderbuythepound.com is a good place to buy powder. I've had adequate results with the Harbor Freight equipment. I'm sure it's not the best but it works for me!

 

[joefyffe]

I started powdercoating tubes years ago then went back to painting. Started powdercoating again recently and have gone back to painting. When powdercoating I plug the top hole of the tube but powder still gets into the other hole and reduces the inner diameter of the tube. Bushing do not fit. Way too much time is spent getting the powder coating out of the end of the tubes. Maybe I'm just not smart enough to figure out how to keep powder out of the tube.

Painting works excellently for me..both labels and snake skins. So, I have gone back to painting. Painting is faster and much less messy. But, the painted tubes must dry and cure for a couple of days. Powder coating is faster in the long run but messy. Maybe I need to redesign my powdercoating rack so both ends of the tubes can be plugged. Not sure that is possible.

Powdercoating is an excellent way to treat the tubes but is not the only way that works.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Seamus is on the mark! If you start powder coating, you will probably not want to paint again. Also, if you have a tendency to sometimes glue a bit "snug" you will find the p/c more durable. (less likely to scratch!) www.powderbuythepound.com is a good place to buy powder. I've had adequate results with the Harbor Freight equipment. I'm sure it's not the best but it works for me!

Don: the way I found to keep the powder out of the tubes is to plug both ends. I just use the appropriate size rubber tapered stoppers. On the hot end, I have a piece of welding wire running down through the rubber plug. It is bent out slightly which causes it to come in contact with the inside of the tube. On the outside upper end I have a U bend configuration that I use to hang it on a rack inside my oven. Works great. Be careful about getting your gun against the tube, if you are hand holding your clip. It causes your left leg to stiffen. I don't think you have to ask how I know !!! :biggrin::biggrin:

 

[its_virgil]

Joe,
Thanks for the tip. I have been thinking of doing something similar but not as simple. I like you idea. I too have experienced the stiffening leg when the gun arcs to the tube rack.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Don: the way I found to keep the powder out of the tubes is to plug both ends. I just use the appropriate size rubber tapered stoppers. On the hot end, I have a piece of welding wire running down through the rubber plug. It is bent out slightly which causes it to come in contact with the inside of the tube. On the outside upper end I have a U bend configuration that I use to hang it on a rack inside my oven. Works great. Be careful about getting your gun against the tube, if you are hand holding your clip. It causes your left leg to stiffen. I don't think you have to ask how I know !!! :biggrin::biggrin: