Pressurizing method

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Dale Allen

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Oct 27, 2012
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Location
Massillon, OH
Question about pressurizing method.
Do you bring the pressure up slowly and reslease it slowly or can you just push on the coupling while the hose has 50 PSI, like I do with my nail guns.
Just wondering if it would have an effect on the casting.
 
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make sure you have a baffle bec if the incoming air hits the resin at high speed you will have resin all over the tank. So guess I am saying fill slow/moderate. if you empty fast you get a very loud hiss noise (bothers me a lot) so emptying fast really offers no benefit.
 
Assuming you are talking about a pressure pot, JMHO, but I bring it up slowly so any leaks in the seal can be addressed under non-violent pressures.
 
I have a baffle in mine and I still bring the pressure up slowly. No need in going too fast just in case of a problem and I don't want to stir things up if I don't have to.
 
I bring my pressure up slowly even though I have a baffle inside my tank.

I let the pressure off quickly, I don't think it matters how fast you let it off, except for the noise.


Happy turning
Tom
 
I don't usually worry about bringing the pressure up slowly. So far, so good. I just double check my locking clamps before adding the pressure. I did forget to cover my mold once. It did make a mess, but my blanks were just a little shorter than normal and were fine.

This was a vertical mold, not horizontal. I can see where a horizontal cast would be ruined.
 
Thanks all. I use a chamber and the end of the mold is sometimes right inside the fitting. The last 2 times I made one I used the regulator valve on the compressor to go up and down slower. It didn't help my issue with the blanks, but I had to try to see if it would. Since I use a 1.5" x 9" chamber there is very little area to pressure up.
 
I just lock and load when casting colors. I have a Binks pot that I installed an ASME certified ball valve to control how fast it can pressurize when clear casting I use it to ensure there is no blow-back of dust, or whatever, into the clear resin. Never had a problem with resin blowing out. I put an "L" valve on the inside of the lid at the inlet/outlet port to direct the air over to the wall of the pot. I also made use of Curtis's tutorial/plans on building a rack for my molds. It allows you to go vertical in the pot and stack your molds. You can find it on his web site here: http://www.turntex.com/images/stories/Curtis/PPRackPlan.pdf

If you keep a close tab on ebay you can find an American made pot (ASME certified for a pretty good price. I found my Binks pot for about $60.00. Beats the heck out of the $500-600 Benjamin's they want for them new.
 
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