Stabilizing is basically used to turn blanks that normally is too soft to turn. If you are looking for a good system check out Curtis's (Mesquiteman) system...I haven't used it, but heard good things. http://www.turntex.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=121
If anything get a silicone mold (or make one check the IAP Library) and some Polyester Resin, some mica pigments and go play:biggrin::biggrin:
Thanks. Curtis's seems to do both pressure and vacuum if I am reading it right. Looks like a good set up. I read that some people vacuum before they add pressure. What is the benefit to this?
So........for casting blanks like PR or ones like the snake skin then I would need Pressure........for stabilizing softer wood or wood with voids then I would need vacuum?
Sorry for all the questions but I am still learning and want to make sure I get the correct equipment.
Yup, you are absolutely correct. There are a lot of articles in the library about casting and stabilization. Start there, and keep asking! That's how we all learn.
Alright.....I took the plunge and got this one. I couldn't resist anymore....I have been reading and seeing all the different blanks and pens on here and it has caused my mind to continuously wonder about all the different things to make. The possibilities are endless....
Pressure is not needed for doing PR casting . Color casting is easily done without pressure , clear casting is a little more tricky but if you are careful about your techniques is also easily done without pressure . Some use an ultrasonic cleaner to remove the bubbles from the resin but I have excellent results without that as well .
The most important thing is to warm your resin and allow any bubbles to rise and pop and not to introduce any new bubbles when you mix in the MEKP and pour into the molds .
Edit:
Vacuum is NOT a good idea for PR since the styrene in the resin boils at below room temp in a vacuum . It should only be used for stablizing punky woods .