ColinH60
Member
Is a pressure pot needed to cast pens? Are there specific resins that can only be used with a pressure pot? Any information is greatly appreciated about casting pen blanks without a pressure pot. Thanks
Pressure Pot?
- Thread starter ColinH60
- Start date
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brownsfn2
Member
The library has some good articles:
http://content.penturners.org/library/techniques/casting_bubble_free.pdf
http://content.penturners.org/library/techniques/casting_bubble_free.pdf
OOPS
Member
Most will require a pressure pot to get the bubbles out of the casting. The ones that I have used that DO NOT require a pressure pot are Alumilite White and Alumilite Regular. A few people claim to have had success using Alumilite Clear without a pressure pot----I have not. Given the cost of Alumilite, I would hate to try a bunch with the Clear and have a bunch of failures. Alumilite Regular cures with an off-white milky cast (without dye added), but does not need pressure. The problem with Regular is that it sets in 90 seconds, and uses more dye than Alum. White in order to get a solid color. I hope this helps. For a lot of info on Alumilite, go to their website, which is www.alumilite.com
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brownsfn2
Member
I tried without. I went out after a week of frustration and spent $150 and now I am having much better success.
I also found I had really old resin and a company on Amazon send me really old Alumilite.
Make sure your product is new. It will work much better.
Good luck!
I also found I had really old resin and a company on Amazon send me really old Alumilite.
Make sure your product is new. It will work much better.
Good luck!
its_virgil
Member
Questions about casting should include what resin is being used: Alumilite or Polyester Resin. Some questions have one answer if casting with Alumilite and a different answer if casting with Polyester Resin.
Maybe the Blank Making forum needs to be further divided into: Segmenting; Stabilization; Alumilite Casting; Polyester Resin Casting. I never thought casting and stabilization should be in the same category anyway.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
'
Maybe the Blank Making forum needs to be further divided into: Segmenting; Stabilization; Alumilite Casting; Polyester Resin Casting. I never thought casting and stabilization should be in the same category anyway.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
'
Russianwolf
Member
What about me? I use West Systems 105/207 for my castings. :tongue:
jttheclockman
Member
Mike
I never knew you did. Could you give us some insight to its use??? How does it compare to other PR if you know?? I thought that was stuff that could not be used in large amounts in one area. Does it cure like Silmar41, does it cure clear??? Is there a bubble factor??? Can it be dyed?? Any other info you care to share with us is appreciated. Thanks.
Russianwolf
Member
Been using it for about a year.
Pros
1)Longer open time. So more time for bubbles to rise or be reabsorbed. Easily 20 minutes.
2)No/Low odor. I've had no issues using it in the basement, unlike PR.
3)Less Chemically reactive. The "solvents" in PR will melt some materials (one of the big reasons I switched).
4)less finicky to mix (especially if you use the pumps). No guessing with drops, no problems on small pours.
5)lower heat while curing. another issue with some materials.
6)longer shelf life. I have a half gallon brick of PR (still in can) if anyone is interested.
7)not flammable. You can actually use a lighter to pop surface bubbles (Don't try that with PR)
Cons
1)Cost. It is more expensive. About $150 for 1.3-1.4 gallons, The 5 gallon set knocks it down to about $100per. Worth it as my failure are way down.
Turning wise, Its on par with the others. Less chippy for me than PR, maybe not quite as nice as Alum. Polishes great unlike some of the Alum mixtures.
The first Dichroics I did used PR, but when I started working on the Prism FX the PR distroyed it. Same for the Opal FX, the PR would melt the material chemically. So all of the Opal FX (if you've turned one of them) and the new Prism FX, and any of the newer Dichroic blanks are all West Systems 105/207.
As far as dying, I have only started to play with that. Some things that work fro PR don't for the Epoxy. They have more time to settle so if it has weight it may not work. Dyes do work, pearlex powders work. Oil paints, yep. Acrylics, not so much. I'll have to go back and look at my test pieces.
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jttheclockman
Member
Very Interesting. Thanks. Will have to keep this in mind. Have some projects that this may come into play about the eating them. Good to know. Like you say in the long run if it works it is worth the money.