Pressure Pot outlet tube

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scrollsawwoodart

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Joined
Mar 28, 2010
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190
Location
Urbana, Ohio
I just finished building my pressure pot based on Curtis's design for Reb. Nice and simple and worked flawlessly on the first try. I pressured it up last night to 40 PSI and checked it after 12 hrs and it held, no leaks at all.

I PMed Curtis completely forgot about the emergency surgery asking most likely a stupid question and I do not want to add anything more to his schedule but I wanted to know should I cut the paint outlet tube off? I am also building Curtis's PP rack for the HF PP. It has a built in air deflector so I think most likely he cut the tube off but wanted to check with other individuals who have build one.

Thanks
Jesse
 
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Thanks for the input, Just unscrewed it like everyone else did. Just finished up the PP rack and it fits like a glove. The air deflector on the top level will keep the air out of the resin.

Thanks for the input
 
I am on the mend but just have not had time to respond to your PM yet. Sorry about that. Looks like you have it all figured out already, though! And you are correct, the air deflector on top keeps the air from blowing out the resin.

Funny little story...A while back I switched to Binks pressure pots that I paid dearly for. I decided that I wanted to have a flat bottom since it, as well as the HF pot has a radiused outer edge which can make the rack sit un-level if you are not careful. I decided to fix this by mixing up some Alumilite and pouring it directly into the bottom of the pot, figuring it would seek it's own level and make the bottom perfectly flat and level. I connected the air hose and proceeded to open the air valve wide up. As soon as I did, I realized I was going to have a mess but it was too late. After the resin set up, I opened my PP and the bottom was nice and flat and the sides of my pot have a nice speckling of blue alumilite from the air blowing it all over the place!
 
Curtis no sorry's needed. I felt like an idiot after PMing you and then remembering you had emergency sugery. I was going to PM you again but I just felt like that would be like a nagging wife. By the way your rack like i said fits like a glove. Do you use both racks when casting or just one. I figured i would just use the bottom one for now then work up to the second rack and maybe get 6 blanks in there at once.

That brings up a good question I never asked. How many blanks do you get in the HF pressure pot at once?

Thanks again for the great replys everyone!
 
scrollsawwoodart said:
Curtis no sorry's needed. I felt like an idiot after PMing you and then remembering you had emergency sugery. I was going to PM you again but I just felt like that would be like a nagging wife. By the way your rack like i said fits like a glove. Do you use both racks when casting or just one. I figured i would just use the bottom one for now then work up to the second rack and maybe get 6 blanks in there at once.

That brings up a good question I never asked. How many blanks do you get in the HF pressure pot at once?

Thanks again for the great replys everyone!
Click to expand...

Hi Jesse,

Interesting, I've just posted something about casting and I actually gave my PP capacity on it here

I myself used Curtis PDF info that is/was available then, I followed his suggestions and everything worked well since day one. I cut the pip out, it could have maybe be screwed in but I failed to move it when I tried so, hacksawed it went...!

I did also found that, some seals/rubbers seal better than others, stronger pots tend to seal better (less flex in the lid when tighting..!) but, a little vaseline on the rubber and on the pot lip (top edge), does a good job, voiding extra tighting and possibly brake the wing nuts or clamps...!

I fixed the concave bottom of the pot and its problems to keep the timber frame/molds levelled by cutting a nudge circle out of 8mm plywood, its seats straight when reaches the ledge of the bottom curve and the pot wall.

Good luck...!

Cheers
George
 
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