RyanNJ
Member
So far i have only casted Alumilite but i was wondering if i should stay with alumilite or if i should try PR
PR or Alumilite?
- Thread starter RyanNJ
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bitshird
Member
What is your success rate with Alumilite?? do you have a pressure pot?
bruce119
Member
Try PR what are you doing. They both have pros and cons. I think Alumilite mite be better with a worthless wood. But PR for just about everything else. The finished Alumilite is more forgiving and easier to turn the finished product.
My biggest gripe about Alumilite is the very short working time. The pot life is 7 minutes on the crystal clear a little bit of an improvement over the old 4-5 minuets. I just don't understand why they can't formulate a longer working time like 15 minutes or more. I think that would bring a lot of folks on board with a longer working time.
My 2 cents
My biggest gripe about Alumilite is the very short working time. The pot life is 7 minutes on the crystal clear a little bit of an improvement over the old 4-5 minuets. I just don't understand why they can't formulate a longer working time like 15 minutes or more. I think that would bring a lot of folks on board with a longer working time.
My 2 cents
RyanNJ
Member
I have a PP I have had success with it
PTownSubbie
Member
What makes you want to try PR if you have had Alumilite success? PR is a bit cheaper but there is a small learning curve. Just like anything else.
What are you using for pigments now? If Mica, you don't have to purchase anything but the PR.
Give it a shot and see for yourself which one you like best...
I agree with what was posted. If you like what you are using, then why switch? If you don't like it, or just want to try your options, then try PR.
I am biased toward PR because that is what i prefer. With PR, there is very little technical precision like what is needed with alumilite. I pour approx. 5 ounces, and add approx 4 drops of MEKP per ounce, and a small pile of mica on the end of the stick. That is as precise as i get and i have had very good success with my casting. I am sure there are people that use highly precise equipment even for casting PR, but i have found no need.
I also think PR is a little bit easier to work with in the sense that you only need one cup per color and it has a longer working time. Another cool thing about PR is that you can dribble the last few drops of each pour into one cup and have no problems with seams from cured resin against uncured resin and build up a blank slowly with lots of crazy colors going on.
Hmmmmmmm... I think i just gave myself a pen blank idea!!
I am biased toward PR because that is what i prefer. With PR, there is very little technical precision like what is needed with alumilite. I pour approx. 5 ounces, and add approx 4 drops of MEKP per ounce, and a small pile of mica on the end of the stick. That is as precise as i get and i have had very good success with my casting. I am sure there are people that use highly precise equipment even for casting PR, but i have found no need.
I also think PR is a little bit easier to work with in the sense that you only need one cup per color and it has a longer working time. Another cool thing about PR is that you can dribble the last few drops of each pour into one cup and have no problems with seams from cured resin against uncured resin and build up a blank slowly with lots of crazy colors going on.
Hmmmmmmm... I think i just gave myself a pen blank idea!!
maxman400
Member
Where do you get your mica powder from, I have some PR but I need some colors for it.
coastalscents dot com
their mica is the BOMB! I have the sampler, and several 1 ounce jars... I also have a pound of pearl white, and paradise pearl black... If you wanna pay shipping, I can send you a little mini sampler...
I have plenty of white and black but i could also add some celini blue, celini red (turns pearl pink in resin), and duocrome green gold.
PM me if you are interested...
their mica is the BOMB! I have the sampler, and several 1 ounce jars... I also have a pound of pearl white, and paradise pearl black... If you wanna pay shipping, I can send you a little mini sampler...
I have plenty of white and black but i could also add some celini blue, celini red (turns pearl pink in resin), and duocrome green gold.
PM me if you are interested...
MesquiteMan
Retired Head Moderator
Alumilite does not require any significant precision. I use an old dial postal scale and put the cup on the scale and tare it out. then pour in part A until I reach 1/2 of the amount I need and then pour in part B to finish it off. I may be off a little on either part since my scale only measure in 1/2 oz increments. It needs to be close but not to the gram!
Not sure what you mean by only needing one cup per color with PR and not with Alumilite? Are you using one cup for each part of Alumilite or something? I only use one cup per color myself.
Agreed that PR has a longer working time. So far, I have not had a need for a longer working time but that is just me.
You can do the same thing with Alumilite. It bonds to itself just fine.
MesquiteMan
Retired Head Moderator
Not that simple! Believe me, if it was, they would have already done it. When I give Mike at Alumilite my suggestions for a better penturning resin, the open time was one of them. The Alumilite Crystal Clear was the result of my suggestions and the increased open time is as much as they can do and still maintain the other working properties that are desirable.
PTownSubbie
Member
Never thought about using just one cup. I have always used two.....Alumilite hardens so fast, I didn't think measuring and mixing could happen prior to curing.
Thanks for the tip.
MesquiteMan
Retired Head Moderator
Just remember, the chemical reaction and thus countdown on pot life, does not begin until the 2 parts are mixed together. When you first pour them together, they are not mixed and the chemical reaction has not really started yet.
I timed myself one time when using the original Water Clear Alumilite. I started my stop watch before I stareted even measuring. From the time it took me to pour out equal parts of each component, get them thoroughly mixed, add my dyes and other goodies, pour into my mold, place in pressure pot, walk across the shop to get my air hose )since forget to get it ready), and pressure everything up to 75 psi was a grand total of 3 minutes and 39 seconds and I did not rush any of it.
You have a lot longer time than you realize. If you have not done it yet, plan to waste a little Alumilite. If you want to pour 8 ounces of mixed resin, go ahead and mix up 10-12 oz. Mix and pour as normal and once everything is in the pot, hold the remaining resin in your cup until it kick off. This will give you a REALLY good idea of how much extra time you have.
I timed myself one time when using the original Water Clear Alumilite. I started my stop watch before I stareted even measuring. From the time it took me to pour out equal parts of each component, get them thoroughly mixed, add my dyes and other goodies, pour into my mold, place in pressure pot, walk across the shop to get my air hose )since forget to get it ready), and pressure everything up to 75 psi was a grand total of 3 minutes and 39 seconds and I did not rush any of it.
You have a lot longer time than you realize. If you have not done it yet, plan to waste a little Alumilite. If you want to pour 8 ounces of mixed resin, go ahead and mix up 10-12 oz. Mix and pour as normal and once everything is in the pot, hold the remaining resin in your cup until it kick off. This will give you a REALLY good idea of how much extra time you have.
I don't know how to do the snippits yet, so i will have to do the running commentary style reply...
1/2 ounce is more technical than you have to be with PR. When i pour, I use a cup that is rated to hold 5 ounces. Rarely do i fill it all the way up, so it is between 4 and 5 ounces. When i am adding the catalyst, I decide how many drops per ounce and do it. If i get an extra drop or two, no big deal. If you mix 4 ounces of part a with 5 ounces of part b, or vice versa, you will have problems. That is what i meant about the technical aspect. You also have to have an extra tool (scale), which, as menial as it is, adds to the technical difficulty of the project.
When i did the little bit of alumilite i poured, I used two cups for each color. One cup for part A, and one cup for part B. I was afraid it would set up in the cup and be a waste of time. My air compressor takes about 5 minutes just to get to 40 elbows, so i don't have alot of time to be goofing off, and everyone here has preached the importance of quickness when dealing with alumilite so i didnt want to risk it. With PR, you are adding a few drops to a cup of resin, so the coloring is straight forward. Add pigs, stir, add catalyst, stir, pour, repeat as needed.
As far as the alumilite bonding to itself, I have no idea. I have only poured with alumilite once, and it failed. I do know that i have heard that uncured alumilite does not stick to cured alumilite as well as PR sticks to PR. I am not saying that it won't stick to itself, I am just saying that it doesn't do it as well as PR (or so i have been told).
I am no pro at casting and only speak from what i have learned here, and from experience. I know very little about PR, and even less about alumilite. I am just trying to share what i have found in my time in the shop. I Hope it has helped!!
Grizz
Banned
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2007
- Messages
- 917
errr... that's great that you have a PP.... uhmmmm did you become successful by aiming at Cheerios in the bowl? :biggrin:
(sorry, just couldn't stop myself)