PR in pvc pipe

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cwolfs69

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well after reading all of the posts and information from you guys i decided to try and cast some PR in PVC pipe. My wife got a bunch of orders for some perfume atomizers based on one that i cast earlier this week. got some 1" PVC and caps to give it a shot. again, worst case i've, wasted $0.65 (3½" oioe at $0.49/ft, $0.49 for each cap) and 5 minutes for each mold if i have to turn them off. ill save that much time on rounding a square blank later. Hope the colors turn out. used my first purple mica powder. that stuff is gorgeous by itself.
will post results with pics later. wish me luck.
 
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yeah that's what ive heard. but the cost is certainly not a big problem. if it works out, the vertical round, ill get up with you Fred to get some round molds. try this first to see how well the vertical works for the atomizers. by the way how much resin do those 1¼" molds take.
 
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spray a little PAM in there before using them ... it might help :)

I have never NOT been able to get mine out although the last time it was difficult, I think because the blanks were still tacky. Once they had set up a little better I was able to drive them out with a hammer and bolt!
 
ive made it a habit, due to my tendancy to try to rush, to cast my PR and not even mess with it until at least the next day, usually 2 days.
 
I think the biggest problem is people are using the wrong type of PVC pipe. The white PVC pipe is for cold water use only. The yellow pipe called CPVC is for use with hot water. If you use the white pipe for a mold the heat may cause the pipe to melt slightly. If you use the pipe for hot water it can with stand the heat therefore it will not melt. I have used CPVC many times for a mold. Sometimes you have to drive out the blank. In most cases it takes very little effort. The hot water pipe can be used many times before it must be replaced. Hope this helps and good luck with your casting. The three-quarter inch size is good for most pen blanks
 
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I have had no problem with white PVC pipe. I don't coat the inside of the pipe with anything. I use a the 3/4" pipe with a #10 corks that I purchase from www.widgetco.com. They are $.40 each and I purchase enough to get free shipping ($20). So I can use the corks again, I cut a piece of rubber glove or plastic wrap. I cover the cork end with plastic before inserting them into the pipe. If I'm going to put the pipe in the pressure pot, I make sure I hammer the cork with a rubber hammer to seat it good. I have had them not seal and leak on the pot. Normally I let the blanks set for 8-10 hours, that I put them in a low heat oven for 30 mins and let them cool or set them in the hot sun for 30 mins. They will pop right out. I get about 10 uses out of the pipe before it gets discolored. I have been getting 15-20 uses before the cork breaks and falls apart. The way I calcuate it, the pipe and cork add about $.01 per blank to my cost.

This is just my method and it works for me. Let me know if someone wants to see pictures.
 
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Don't put caps on your PCV pipe. It will be almost impossible to remove, use blue tape. I get the the blanks to pop out every time buy putting it in a vise, give it a little tightening rotate it 90 degrees and go it again. Almost every time I will hear the blank release from the PVC. I'm using the "BABY SODA BOTTLES" now and I can see my pour from the very beginning and they come out "baby bottom smooth". You get 15 for about $10 + small shipping.
 
Use SCH40 PVC. All of mine slide right out, no hammering or other persuation, in less than an hour. I've gotten 100 casts or more from 1 mold. Be careful with PVC, it gives off chloride fumes as it's heated.
 
Don't put caps on your PCV pipe. It will be almost impossible to remove, use blue tape. I get the the blanks to pop out every time buy putting it in a vise, give it a little tightening rotate it 90 degrees and go it again. Almost every time I will hear the blank release from the PVC. I'm using the "BABY SODA BOTTLES" now and I can see my pour from the very beginning and they come out "baby bottom smooth". You get 15 for about $10 + small shipping.

How do you get the blanks out of the Baby Soda Bottles? I have a starter kit from Alumalite and am looking forward to using it.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Actually i used 1" because im making perfume atomizers and i want a little room to profile them . I found out real quick that sgimbel was right when he said the caps were a problem. i had to machine them off and found that they actually put a lip on the cap end. once i cut off the cap, i just tapped out he side of the pipe sharply and every one of the slid right out perfectly round. next time we use the blue tape and slide em out. they look good though. will post pics when turned.
 
If using "baby soda bottles" drill a hole big enough to put some sort of tapper (dowell, metal rod, whatever) in the closed end. Blue tape in (2 layers) before the pour and once set pull the tape and tap out.
 
This is how I did mine. I know they could be bigger. I was making some to use as "display" colors.
 

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If using "baby soda bottles" drill a hole big enough to put some sort of tapper (dowell, metal rod, whatever) in the closed end. Blue tape in (2 layers) before the pour and once set pull the tape and tap out.


The drawback to using these is, the waste of resin. Most kits will get by with 3/4" blanks, so 1" is a lot of waste. I didn't see any available in 3/4". The best price on them is about $.52 ea. plus S/H. With PVC that cost is reduced to $.03 ea. and no S/H, if you need more, just stop at the local big box. For $.03, they could just be turned off if they can't be removed and still be way ahead.
PVC works...
 
Charlie,
You got me thinkin here so I went and cut some 3/4" pvc water pipe, made a stand for support, measured it out and poured 3 molds. They came out easily. They actually cured much faster than in my silicone molds. Great thread. I always enjoy doing something new.
 
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