PR Cleanup

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BassBlaster

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
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102
Location
Grove City, OH
What have you guys found is the best method to clean up supplies and tools after casting? My tools (dental pick, etc) I just wiped off with a paper towel but how do you get the resin out of the jar? I used a small jar to "nuke" my resin in the sonic cleaner and after pouring my molds I just left the remainder hoping it would pop out after it starts to set. I dont wanna have to use a new jar every time so is this the best way?
 
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Soak the tools in Acetone and scrap the jar and get some #5 clear plastic cups. I buy them from Walmart and they are the walmart brand for pretty cheap.
 
I don't have one but I used to put them in some pretty hot water when I used PR. Has to be the #5 from what I have found or your cup will become one with the resin in its liquid form and that is a hell of a mess.
 
I use alcohol to clean things up if the resin hasn't gelled yet. If it has gelled, then I let it get to the point where it is elastic and pull it off. If it has hardened, then acetone. I have to really want to save whatever has hardened resin on it to bother messing with acetone.

I use polypropolyene mixing cups from US Composites. Clean up well and can be reused many times. I clean them before the resin starts to gel. If the resin has gelled and is all in one place at the bottom I'll pull it out. If it is smeared all over the cup, I toss the cup.

Works for me.

Ed
 
BassBlaster said:
Plastic cups are okay to heat up in the sonic cleaner?
Click to expand...

#5 plastic - yes.

Today, I tried using dixie cups to mix some resin, put it in the sonic bath, and the bottom fell out.

Acetone works on cleanup.


Notes to self -- #5 plastic works, don't bother trying anything else. Keep acetone in a more convenient location for quick cleanup. :rolleyes:
 
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Ill run to the store and get some #5 plastic cups and give it a try tomorrow. I have more to cast as soon as these come out of the mold.

I took a popsicle stick and tried to get the remaining resin out of the jar after it had jelled and just made a mess. If I waste a jar every time casting 2oz at a time, casting is gonna get pricey.

So I looked on the WalMart website and then a generic yahoo search and I cant find anything for #5 plastic cup. If I go to WalMart, is this something I'm going to find in the paint department or in the isle with Dixie cups and such?
 
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With the dixie cups and picnic stuff. You'll have to look at the recycle code on the bottom of the cup -- some are #5, some are #6. You don't want #6.
 
BassBlaster said:
Ill run to the store and get some #5 plastic cups and give it a try tomorrow. I have more to cast as soon as these come out of the mold.

I took a popsicle stick and tried to get the remaining resin out of the jar after it had jelled and just made a mess. If I waste a jar every time casting 2oz at a time, casting is gonna get pricey.

So I looked on the WalMart website and then a generic yahoo search and I cant find anything for #5 plastic cup. If I go to WalMart, is this something I'm going to find in the paint department or in the isle with Dixie cups and such?
Click to expand...

Its these.

Great Value 16 Oz Clear Cups, 50ct: Household Essentials : Walmart.com

They have 16oz and 9ox. I buy 2 of each every time.
 
GFS Gordon Food Service has assorted sizes most are clear or transparent, (#5 on the bottom) I have the from 1/2 oz on up they are cheaper to toss rather than by solvent and the time to clean them. If you have to use a glass jar and clean it up. As soon as the resin poured out fill with solvent put a lid on and shake. you can also have two and leave the solvent in. the solvent can be used till it starts to get thick.
:clown:
 
PTsideshow said:
GFS Gordon Food Service has assorted sizes most are clear or transparent, (#5 on the bottom) I have the from 1/2 oz on up they are cheaper to toss rather than by solvent and the time to clean them. If you have to use a glass jar and clean it up. As soon as the resin poured out fill with solvent put a lid on and shake. you can also have two and leave the solvent in. the solvent can be used till it starts to get thick.
:clown:
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Thats a good idea with two jars. I'll give the disposable cups a try and if that dosnt work out for me, I'll try the two jar trick. Thanks.
 
I picked up an 80 pack of the 9oz cups tonight. I'm only casting 2oz at a time right now using PTown's tube in molds so those will be plenty big enough for awhile. Thanks for the help!!
 
I put my resin tubes in a small plastic bottle from Hobby Lobby. Use over and over again, no problem. I buy the acetone from Wal Mart, store brand called Equate I think is the name. It's cheep
 
I use plastic cups to mix also. As others said not all work. I use Hefty "Crystal Clear" they are a little tougher and clear don't use the cheaper frosted ones the P.R. will eat out the bottom in very short order. I clean up with acetone.

Have Fun
 
Thanks for all the tips guys. I just used the first #5 cup in the sonic cleaner without problem. Oh by the way, my first ever casting attempt was a success thanks to all the helpful folks here. I'll have snakeskins to show later this afternoon maybe!!
 
Okay, I lied, no pics to show but lessons learned.

I was showing my wife one of the blanks and she dropped it. Now it has a couple of spots where it looks like the resin has lifted slightly from the skin. Lesson one, dont let wife handle blanks!! The other, I put on the lathe just to make it round so I could inspect the finished product. I wasnt making a pen, just rounding and polishing the blank so I didnt sand/mill the ends of the blank. The bushings contacted the resin rather than the tube and as soon as I put a little pressure on it, both ends lifted from the skin. It never even crossed my mind this would happen. Lesson two, never mount a blank on the lathe before squaring the ends.

The only positive in all this is that the first 2 I cast were the first 2 I glued up and the seams wernt perfect. The 2 in the mold now have perfect seams so hopefully I dont screw those up!!
 
BassBlaster said:
Okay, I lied, no pics to show but lessons learned.

I was showing my wife one of the blanks and she dropped it. Now it has a couple of spots where it looks like the resin has lifted slightly from the skin. Lesson one, dont let wife handle blanks!! The other, I put on the lathe just to make it round so I could inspect the finished product. I wasnt making a pen, just rounding and polishing the blank so I didnt sand/mill the ends of the blank. The bushings contacted the resin rather than the tube and as soon as I put a little pressure on it, both ends lifted from the skin. It never even crossed my mind this would happen. Lesson two, never mount a blank on the lathe before squaring the ends.

The only positive in all this is that the first 2 I cast were the first 2 I glued up and the seams wernt perfect. The 2 in the mold now have perfect seams so hopefully I dont screw those up!!
Click to expand...

That is one of the pearls of PR especially snake skin. Perhaps a coating with CA before you cast will help. But you defiantly don't want to tighten down on the bushings and round your blanks on a sander before going to the lathe a catch would be just as bad. When the bushings are over tighten as you witnessed it may cause separation, that foggy appearance on the ends. Another suggestion is to coat the ends with CA after you square them before you go to the lathe.

Fun Stuff :wink:
 
Throw them in Acetone and save the skin. I would not try to turn PR for a few days as is. You can post cure in a shop toaster oven at about 140*. That is what I did w/ my PR.
 
bruce119 said:
BassBlaster said:
Okay, I lied, no pics to show but lessons learned.

I was showing my wife one of the blanks and she dropped it. Now it has a couple of spots where it looks like the resin has lifted slightly from the skin. Lesson one, dont let wife handle blanks!! The other, I put on the lathe just to make it round so I could inspect the finished product. I wasnt making a pen, just rounding and polishing the blank so I didnt sand/mill the ends of the blank. The bushings contacted the resin rather than the tube and as soon as I put a little pressure on it, both ends lifted from the skin. It never even crossed my mind this would happen. Lesson two, never mount a blank on the lathe before squaring the ends.

The only positive in all this is that the first 2 I cast were the first 2 I glued up and the seams wernt perfect. The 2 in the mold now have perfect seams so hopefully I dont screw those up!!
Click to expand...

That is one of the pearls of PR especially snake skin. Perhaps a coating with CA before you cast will help. But you defiantly don't want to tighten down on the bushings and round your blanks on a sander before going to the lathe a catch would be just as bad. When the bushings are over tighten as you witnessed it may cause separation, that foggy appearance on the ends. Another suggestion is to coat the ends with CA after you square them before you go to the lathe.

Fun Stuff :wink:
Click to expand...

They were coated with CA prior to casting. I will definately square the ends and coat with CA before going to the lathe with the naxt one.

Justturnin said:
Throw them in Acetone and save the skin. I would not try to turn PR for a few days as is. You can post cure in a shop toaster oven at about 140*. That is what I did w/ my PR.
Click to expand...
Acetone wont harm the skin? I may give it a go. They are a loss as is right now so it wont hurt to try it.

I have a small toaster oven for the shop but I have heard that snake skins dont like the post cure heat. I obviously have no experience to back that up. I'll leave these next ones alone for awhile.
 
Okay heres a pic. The two on the right are the ones I screwed up and the one the wife dropped. The two on the left just came out of the mold this morning and look good. I'll let them rest a few days before doing anything with them just to be sure!! Thanks for all the help in this process guys!!

snakeskincasting_zpsf8778101.jpg
 
A suggestion the one that the wife dropped mite be able to be saved. If it chunked out and didn't tear out the skin it can be recast. Also if it cracked you still mite be able to save it. Use a dremel to open the crack and then carefully pick at the P.R. till you reach the skin. Then recast P.R. adheres to it self very well. Also about post curring I don't use oven to post cure I will preheat the mold just before casting to about 150. I also preheat the resin with hot water to about 110. I use 3 drops no more than 4 drops MEKP. I do put outside after 12 hour set to finish cure in the sun. I would not post cure more than 150 the more you heat it the more brittle it will be.

Good Luck
 
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