Powder Coating Tubes

[jtdesigns]

Okay, I finally have had success with the watch parts pen with a primered tube with acrylic craft paint over the top then parts glued to this (nickel tubes do not work for this--resin seperation). My question is this: Would powder coating be a better platform? Does anyone know if the resin bonds to this securely. I had a couple tubes powder coated with a satin powder coat done by a friend. I cast one of these tubes with watch parts and the resin seperated but I think this was my fault because I rushed it. After tearing the blank down I noticed that the powder coated tube was still a bit tacky so I didn't let it cure. Before I break the seal on the new powder coating gun I bought, just wanted to know if anyone has any information? Thanks

 

[Gary Max]

Yup----that's the best way to go. The powder coat should be hard---you can't rush any part of the process.

 

[Sylvanite]

After tearing the blank down I noticed that the powder coated tube was still a bit tacky so I didn't let it cure.

That doesn't sound right. Powder-paint is oven-cured and should be hard as soon as it has cooled. I routinely wool and buff powder-coated parts 10-30 minutes out of the oven. It's possible that PR might soften powder-coat (I haven't tried it specificially) but my experience is that powder paint holds up to just about anything short of acetone or car keys.

Also realize that PR does not form a chemical bond with the tube. It needs some "tooth" on the surface to create a mechanical bond. Otherwise, it will tend to separate when it shrinks. After powder-coating, you may want to rub the tube with steel wool. The PR will have a better chance of adhering to a roughened surface.

I hope that helps,
Eric