Post curing

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SDB777

SDB777

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Been reading a LOT now that I have a pressure pot on the way!!(Self gloat there) Looks like I'll be digging around for one of those toaster ovens too.


Question:
Seen a lot of really different ways to post cure. What is the best tested method, or what temp and for how long(for which brand)?





Scott (don't want my first to be brittle) B
 
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SDB777 said:
Been reading a LOT now that I have a pressure pot on the way!!(Self gloat there) Looks like I'll be digging around for one of those toaster ovens too.


Question:
Seen a lot of really different ways to post cure. What is the best tested method, or what temp and for how long(for which brand)?





Scott (don't want my first to be brittle) B
Click to expand...

I only post cure if I need to get rid of the sticky outside. If I can wait, the stickyness will go away in a day or two but if I can't then it is into the toaster oven at ~150F for 10-15 mins. I think that is standard for all brands.
 
Here's what I do for post curing...btw I'm only experienced with PR (silmar 41 mainly) so if you're doing alumilite (which i dunno if you'll ever have to post cure that stuff) someone else will need to chime in. First off, I'll only post cure if the resin is still tacky on the surface otherwise I don't usually bother. When I do I set my toaster oven to 150 and set it for 30 mins and if it needs more I'll do another 30 mins. From what I've read here too much heat causes the brittleness. If you're looking for a toaster oven still try looking at goodwill or someplace similar. I've found them there for cheap (less than $10 easily). Hope this helps!
 
I have a food dehydrator that works wonderfully for post curing resin. It doesn't get too hot, and the airflow seems to help speed up the process. It's also handy for quick drying reverse painted blanks.
 
Branden (Penl8th) and I use our Warming Chambers to Post Cure and Gas-Off Castin Craft Polyester resin blanks. Works great for drying wood pen blanks too.

I found that using a toaster oven heats the catsing too quickly resulting in brittleness whereas the Warming Chamber warms the casting gradually over 4-6 hours reducing the chances of any brittleness.

Les
 
Sunlight works great when it's warm out . After taking them out of the tank I place the batch outside on my picnic table for a couple hours. Works great with no worry of getting too hot. Since I don't have any penmakers near by, I haven't had to worry about anyone borrowing any blanks. Lol
 
rjwolfe3 said:
Does anyone know if this works with the resin saver molds?
Click to expand...

I just put the molds and all the cast still in them outside in the warm air. It takes about 3 hrs and they are not sticky anymore. You guys in the cooler climates that are coming (Too Bad) just put them in a warm airy place like near a heater duct. Not too hot and some circulating air. You don't really want to heat them up say over 100. I think that adds to the brittle factor.

just my thoughts and what works for me

.
 
Now I do preheat molds tubes and all to about 100-125 before adding resin. Any higher depending on what you are doing could damage the blank. Such as something like a white label to high heat could discolor it. Something like a worthless wood higher heat would be beneficial it would help the resin to seam into all the crooks and Nannys.

good luck
 
Actually, a small cardboard box, an extension cord and a 60 watt light bulb work fine for post curing if you want to.
 
I do mime almost exactly the same as Jonothan (Brooks883).

I bought the cheapest toster over at Wal-mart. It was $14. Additionally, I had some model makers melting wax that melts at 150 degrees. I used this wax to calibrate the heat in my oven.

Cheap toaster ovens are notorious for having inferior thermostates. Calibrating before just popping in a silicone mold could save a serious mess.
 
I use a drying kiln that I made for drying blanks for both warming the resin and mold and post curing . It is along the lines of what Chip said except I use a styrofoam ice chest and a fishtank heater . It warms anywhere from 100 to 125 degrees and holds it there as long as I want . I find that 100 degrees will post cure the resin without making it brittle in about an hour .
 
Padre said:
Actually, a small cardboard box, an extension cord and a 60 watt light bulb work fine for post curing if you want to.
Click to expand...

ldb2000 said:
I use a drying kiln that I made for drying blanks for both warming the resin and mold and post curing . It is along the lines of what Chip said except I use a styrofoam ice chest and a fishtank heater . It warms anywhere from 100 to 125 degrees and holds it there as long as I want . I find that 100 degrees will post cure the resin without making it brittle in about an hour .
Click to expand...

I made a hotbox because a toaster oven cannot hold the 10 to 12 blocks I make at a time. It cost me about $10 to make. I use it also to dry painted blanks and tubes.

Here is the thread I posted on how I made it.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58870
 
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