thewishman
Member
Got a project using cork, would stabilizing work? Can't see how it would, but wanted to ask.
Possible to stabilize cork?
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Probably depend more than anything on what you used to stabilize it.
And by stabilize I mean filling the pores in with a hardening resin.
Vacuum stabilizing using a fairly strong (can't think of a better word but not exactly what I'm meaning) resin of one sort or another to plasticize it should work, I can't imagine it being any more difficult than a corn cob to stabilize. Maybe something like minwax wood hardener or one of those other resins used to harden deteriorating wood for repairs would work.
And by stabilize I mean filling the pores in with a hardening resin.
Vacuum stabilizing using a fairly strong (can't think of a better word but not exactly what I'm meaning) resin of one sort or another to plasticize it should work, I can't imagine it being any more difficult than a corn cob to stabilize. Maybe something like minwax wood hardener or one of those other resins used to harden deteriorating wood for repairs would work.
plantman
Member
Criss: I turn corn cobs and punky burls all the time and there can't be anything more flimsy than those. My first question, is it a open cell cork, or a dence cell cork such a a wine cork?. The approach is a little different between the two. An open cell cork is easier to fill with a 2 part epoxy. You could add color or powers to this for contrast. A dence cell cork can be filled using thin CA. Do not use excellorater or the CA will turn cloudy!!! In either case, fill the cork before drilling. Drill your hole in the cork. Now flood the hole with thin CA. Redrill the hole and insert a tube using gap filling CA. Start turning your blank. Stop every 2 - 3 passes and flood the blank with gap filling CA using a paper towel while turning by hand or at low speed. Do these steps until you reach the size you want. Apply several more coats of CA and lightly sand. Now finish the blank with whatever you are comfortabe using.Jim S
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aweiss44
Member
I woulddo as plantman suggested with one addition. Either. Really wax your bushings, or put somethings between them and the end if the cork- maybe saran wrap? Better yet turn between centers. I did a pen with cork. Got it all done, finished, went to take off the bushings and the ends ripped out from the cork.
plantman
Member
cork
Two ways that I use to avoid ripping out the ends are, use a parting tool to square the ends down to the bushing, removing any glue connection between blank and bushings. Having a metal lathe, I use a knife file and trim the ends down to the bushing. Most of the time I have tubing in longer lengths and cut a tube about 1/4 - 1/2" longer than needed. Leave the tubing stick out on both ends. Then using a squaring jig and disk sander, trim down the blank to the length needed after turning and finishing. Coat the ends with nail polish hardner and you have a sealed shiney end. Jim S
Two ways that I use to avoid ripping out the ends are, use a parting tool to square the ends down to the bushing, removing any glue connection between blank and bushings. Having a metal lathe, I use a knife file and trim the ends down to the bushing. Most of the time I have tubing in longer lengths and cut a tube about 1/4 - 1/2" longer than needed. Leave the tubing stick out on both ends. Then using a squaring jig and disk sander, trim down the blank to the length needed after turning and finishing. Coat the ends with nail polish hardner and you have a sealed shiney end. Jim S