Polymer

[frank123]

Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I can't find anything else that seems more appropriate.

I tried using some of the Sculpy polymer clay from Hobby Lobby to try making some rods for both pen blanks and some other related ideas I have but have failed to achieve what I wanted.

The problem is the stuff cures OK, but doesn't actually get very hard, It remains flexible more like a stiff rubber than a hardened clay. I followed the proper curing (baking) procedure as listed on the package and on their website so I'm assuming this is what it does.

I really did like my result if it was just harder (stiffer) and more like a plastic or hard clay of some kind than stiff rubber.

Having wasted four bucks for this experiment (not a lot but it all adds up and I can't afford to just try everything) I'm wondering if this is characteristic of all polymer clays or if there is one that will harden harder and still be colored or colorable?

 

[Ruby pen turning]

Try baking it longer. It should get hard and sound like plastic. I tap our on my tooth to see that it is hard. Your oven temp could very well be off.

 

[GoatRider]

Sculpey is the softest of the polymer clays. Try something like Fimo, one of the firmest.

 

[frank123]

Try baking it longer. It should get hard and sound like plastic. I tap our on my tooth to see that it is hard. Your oven temp could very well be off.

Thanks for the reply.

How long can it be baked without damaging it?

I just tried another rod (this stuff is so quick and easy to work with) and baked an approx. .6 inch rod for a little over an hour at 275 F.

It is harder but still pretty flexible and not something with anything I'd consider "structural" strength the way PR or Alumilite has.

The rod can easily be bent a good 10 - 20 degrees by moderate hand pressure. It's far more what I'd consider rubber than plastic.

My oven temperature is quite accurate and uses a thermometer to keep check on it (It's basically a heat tempering oven I use to temper knife steel after hardening and has a good temperature consistency).

Can this be baked again for a longer period to see if it helps or is it a one shot thing?

I appreciate your help.

 

[frank123]

Sculpey is the softest of the polymer clays. Try something like Fimo, one of the firmest.

I'll pick some up tomorrow and give it a try. Does it come in colors or can it be colored?

 

[PTsideshow]

Are you putting the tube in after wrapping the clay around it or are you making a solid rod and the going to drill the tube hole out?
:clown:

 

[frank123]

Are you putting the tube in after wrapping the clay around it or are you making a solid rod and the going to drill the tube hole out?
:clown:

A solid rod.

For use in kitless and dip pens -=possibly with brass or nickle silver fittings- as well as some other things.

 

[MarkY]

I've only used sculpy so far and get the rubbery consistency that you talk about. I turned another today. It turns well, sanding is a bit weird with the lower grits (feels like you're rubbing off little balls) but around 600 things get normal. I then do a BLO/CA finish and they look as good as other acrylics.
Here's the one I did today:

 

[GoatRider]

Sculpey is the softest of the polymer clays. Try something like Fimo, one of the firmest.

I'll pick some up tomorrow and give it a try. Does it come in colors or can it be colored?

24 colors, but not all of them are available in all stores, you might need to look around to get them all. Or mail order.

You might also pick up an oven thermometer.

 

[ghostrider]

So far I've used Kato, Premo, Sculpey III, Fimo, and Cernit.

I've made solid 3/4"-7/8" rods out of Premo, Kato, and Sculpey III.

A couple links to note:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/1390486-post7.html

Which Types Of Polymer Clay Is The Strongest? The Tension, Compression And Flexibility Tests To all Types Of Polymer Clay.

Of the ones I've tried, the Kato feels like a soft to hard plastic. The Premo can get hard, but I don't think as much as the Kato. The Schulpey III was the softest, and I really can't give a good review as some of the segments separated during baking. Whether this was due to poor quality clay, old or partially cured clay, or just beginners mistakes I can't say.

Personally, I prefer the Kato because it's so hard, and has a reputation as on of (if not the) most durable brands. It's also cheaper than the others (Hobby Lobby sells it for $1.99, while the other mentioned brands are over $2.00). If you can handle the conditioning process, then I'd say go with Kato. From what I've been able to ascertain, that and Cernit are the strongest.

Polymer Clay Brands

I also talked to the guy at Van Aken who formulates, and lab tests Kato Polyclay, and he told me that a good idea to use with my project was to bury the rod in baking soda when baking it. He also told me that with this method I could bake it as long as I wanted as long as the temperature was correct.

You might try the baking soda method, and bake it longer. I've done two rods out of Premo, and both were soft after following baking instructions properly. The first rod was put back in the oven and baked a lot longer, and is not passable. The second one is waiting for a companion to join it in the oven but will also be baked for a prolonged period.

I haven't made a rod of Fimo yet, but have burned quite a few tubes while learning my mistakes.

 

[frank123]

Thanks all for the information.

I think I just picked the wrong one for my purposes thinking they were all the same (mostly because of the colors available in it at Hobby Lobby). I'll try the others so see what suits my purpose, this stuff is really easy to design and work with in comparison to casting resins.

(FWIW, you can get a 40% off coupon every week for Hobby Lobby here: In-Store Coupon : Weekly In-Store Specials : Hobby Lobby - Hobby Lobby, which makes their casting resins and supplies pretty affordable, some are in the model section and some in the craft section)

 

[ghostrider]

Thanks all for the information.

I think I just picked the wrong one for my purposes thinking they were all the same (mostly because of the colors available in it at Hobby Lobby). I'll try the others so see what suits my purpose, this stuff is really easy to design and work with in comparison to casting resins.

(FWIW, you can get a 40% off coupon every week for Hobby Lobby here: In-Store Coupon : Weekly In-Store Specials : Hobby Lobby - Hobby Lobby, which makes their casting resins and supplies pretty affordable, some are in the model section and some in the craft section)

I did the exact same thing when I first started (also started with Schulpey III). You can also find good prices on line if your in need of other items like cutters and stuff that HL doesn't carry. I'd rather get it at HL with the discount, but they don't sell the purple Kato Polyclay in the 12.5 oz bricks.