Polymer clay question

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If you are not doing a lot then yes. The problem is the platicizers vaporize and can build up on the inside of your stove. If you do a search through some of the polymer sites there are several artists that use a casserole dish (dedicated to clay) in the kitchen oven. Others will build tents out of alluminum foil to help with the vaporization. In both cases you have to keep and eye on it until you get used to the system and the heat distribution.

There is very little oder unless you burn the piece. Then you really will make the wife upset!!!!
 
creativewriting said:
If you do a search through some of the polymer sites there are several artists that use a casserole dish (dedicated to clay) in the kitchen oven. Others will build tents out of alluminum foil to help with the vaporization. In both cases you have to keep and eye on it until you get used to the system and the heat distribution.
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Would toaster oven work in this case? If so, one can always have to toaster oven in the garage.

I have bought a toaster oven on sales for $14.99 (Proctor Silex - a good brand I think) for heating up silicone molds. And hoping to use this toaster oven for Polymer Clay.
 
tHanks guys, made a couple blanks in the oven today, and plan to buy a toaster oven soon. Happy with first try, the clay turned beautifully.
 
Another question i have is how long to you let the clay cool/set after baking? I let mine cool for an hour and got some chipping. Am i not letting it set long enough?
 
I've used the kitchen oven with no ill effects. My concern with the toaster oven is wide fluctuations and inconsistent control in temperature.

I've always tried to get the blank as close to finished size as is practical, and then just use sandpaper to get it to final size...this has worked well for me, although I have only done one or two at a time, waiting at least a day or two after the oven until putting on the lathe.
 
Glenn is correct with the chipping. Airpockets and dull tools are not your friends. Polymer requires very light cuts with sharp tools.

As for the toaster oven and fluctuations I haven't had an issue. I use a toaster oven in the garage all the time. There are (2) very important things to remember with toaster ovens. Always use and oven thermometer and always preheat. I spent a little extra money on a nice toaster oven (convection and double shelves). The lower end ovens do have issues with temp and consistancy. The old statement "you get what you pay for" is true. I think my oven was $60 and well worth every penny.

Next is the question about how long to let them set. If I am in a hurry to finish a pen I will take the blank from the oven to a bowl of cold water. Let it sit in the water for a couple minutes, dry it off, and I'm ready to go. If you are using translucent colors this process (for some reason) helps the transparency of the colors (a whole new topic).

Hope this helps!
 
I recently tried boiling some PR blanks. I need to post my results, but I found that they turned much better than baking. The PR was actually harder/ more brittle after boiling, but that meant it turned better using a scraper rather than a skew. Even with a skew, I had a LOT of tearout with my baked blanks.
 
I recently tried boiling some PR blanks
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PR or PC? If you boiled PC this a technique I have not seen or heard of. It is my understanding the clay must reach a temp. of at least 250 to solidify the platicizers. From the information I have read undercured clay will appear hard at first. Over time the platicizers will continue to be active causing the clay to soften and fail.

Looks like something fun to research! Who knows.
 
creativewriting said:
PR or PC? If you boiled PC this a technique I have not seen or heard of. It is my understanding the clay must reach a temp. of at least 250 to solidify the platicizers. From the information I have read undercured clay will appear hard at first. Over time the platicizers will continue to be active causing the clay to soften and fail.

Looks like something fun to research! Who knows.
Click to expand...

OOPS! I meant PC. But yes, boiled in a plastic Glad container. Make sure you have water covering the blanks at all times. But it definitely works. I make solid rods, and drill as you normally would. One thing I have to say, once they're done make sure you take them out of the water and set on a towel. Right our of the microwave they're really crumbly, but once they cool and dry out they're very hard.

There was a website on this that someone here linked to, I'll see if I can find it but there's really no technique to it. I boiled them for about 10 minutes in the plastic container, then set them on a paper towel to cool and dry.

I did find they were harder and more brittle than over-cured blanks, but with the hardness comes less tear-out and better working with scrapers. Also, there's no discoloration that you can get. And lastly, since the temp never exceeds 100 deg C (no idea what it is in F), you really can't over cook them.
 
Hey Travis,

Now I am with you. I think where I got confused was you didn't include the microwave. I was thinking boiled like pasta:confused:. We did have this conversation in another post and I had a link to Garie International (http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/index.html ). He does all sorts of experiments and tests on polymer clay. He also has a way to cure pieces in a pot on the stove:eek:. The pot is lined with some sort of plaster. I will stick with my toaster oven!
 
212F is the same as 100 c which is boiling.

" And lastly, since the temp never exceeds 100 deg C (no idea what it is in F), you really can't over cook them."
 
Got ya! Sea level plays a factor in that too. For each 1000f above sea level water boils 2 degrees lower. I don't think it matters much for the purpose of clay. Just some useless knowledge to pass along if you ever see it on Jeopardy:)
 
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