Poly Resin at 200 degrees

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PedroDelgado

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Joined
May 3, 2011
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Location
Lawrenceville, GA 30043
Has anyone put Poly Resin at 200 degrees for two hours after it has cured?
The reason I ask is that I am using cactus Juice first and then doing the casting but I find voids that have been filled with CJ and I am trying to avoid that.
Thanks for the comments
Pedro
 
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Well, if the temperature you are talking about is 200° Fahrenheit you should be OK even though, you will make the PR more brittle than it should and 1 hour may be sufficient, at 200° Celsius, for that amount of time, you are not going to like what you get...!:frown:

However, that is a problem that I have encounter and isn't much you can do, unless you reverse the procedure, do your castings first and then stabilise the wood/blanks. If you are going to do this, I strongly recommend you use less than half of the hardener, the blanks may take an extra day to stable enough to be de-mold and then put into a vacuum chamber, you need to reduce the PR hardness/brittleness that you will get, by putting them in an oven to cure the Juice so, the reduction of hardener in the mix will result in a "rubbery" type blank/resin when out of the pressure pot, that will not compromise the resin while in the juice but, as soon as it is put in the oven, the 90° Celsius required to set the juice will harden the blanks from rubber to solid but it won't get too brittle, just a little more that it would if it never had been in the oven.

Using maximum hardener dosages to get the resin to set quickly, is never a good idea when casting wood and Polyester resin, its adhesion capabilities are a lot inferior that the Alumilite resins, setting to quick is also the reason why many blanks never filled properly as the resin sets before it has a chance to reach those tights spots, particularly in the pot pressures are mild to low (40 to 70 PSI) however, not all pots are capable to reach more that that SAFELY so please look at the pots factory max. pressure ratings...!

I hope this helps you, some how...!

Good luck,
Cheers
George
 
What size voids Pedro, CJ only fills very tiny...pinhole size voids. What is your procedure for curing blanks that you stabilize...maybe an answer there. It's always better to stabilize first and cast next.
 
I am doing bracelets with Cholla Cactus...... It does not really need any stabilization as the fibers are dry and firm but I thought it would be better in order to get a glossy finish when sanding it. I think I will just cast the PR under vacuum and pressure and use CA glue at the end to achieve the gloss I am looking.
Thanks everyone!
 
That is why I recommend casting first and THEN stabilizing IF still needed. When the stabilizing solutions cure in small cracks and voids they coat SOME of the space with clear crystal like material. when you cast on top of that you end up with a clear coat between the wood and the resin and when you turn it sometimes it is not very appealing.
Eugene.
 
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