Polishing CA?

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Woodchipper

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I did a search but didn't find anything that I felt answered my question. I don't have a Beal system or anything like it. All I have is basically Micro Mesh and Hut Ultra Gloss liquid. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.
 
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What you've got is what I used (before I got a buffing system).


It works well, use water to avoid overheating and clogging the micromesh, and sand lengthwise (with the power off) to get rid of circumferential scratches before washing off any slurry and moving on to the next grit.
 
Same as Duncan, but nothing wrong with your process. I posted a lot in 2014 about polishing acrylics and CA finishes. So have many others. Did you try the Finishing section? There's plenty there or just ask. Many are happy to help :)
 
I sand up to 800 drythen 1000 and 1200 wet, then micro mesh.

I already had a harbor freight buffer/polisher with the cotton wheels. I use the harbor freight blue compound and it really makes to CA pop.
 
I looked in Finishing and, as sated, didn't find anything that fully addressed my question. Thanks to all. Will try what Duncan mentioned.
 
Hi John: I will send my wet method and a try method. In fact, the dry method, using buffing wheels is in the library, and right hand side of the new posts page. Give me a few and I will locate.
 
I looked in Finishing and, as sated, didn't find anything that fully addressed my question. Thanks to all. Will try what Duncan mentioned.

Woodchipper,
Your question was simply "Polishing CA". That is an ambiguous question that does not state what the problem is nor the solution for which you are searching. If you don't mind, could you give more specifics?

Since the answers given above ARE about "polishing" but doesn't seem to answer your question or give the solution you are searching for, more specifics would help us understand.

Are you having scratches show up on the CA surface?
Are you looking at the finish through a loupe/magnifying lens? (I often do.)
Is the finish smooth but dull? (sometimes linked to old or bad CA).

Hoping to help where we can.
 
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Just wanting to make the finish look a bit better. I'm using Titebond Thin CA for my finish. I have a pen on the lathe right now with 7 coats. Wanting to go up a step in finishing. No real problem with the blank and the finish itself.
 
We use two coats of thin to seal the wood then about six coats of medium. Then micro mesh and buff with white diamond rouge. Always happy with the finish.

The medium i believe helps build up a deeper finish.
 
There are essentially three groups you can do this. Also worth noting overlapping methods is NOT a good idea and often shows a lack of education and experience

A) Buffing. Uses liquid, dry or paste to polish.

B) micromesh. This is taken from the automotive industry. It uses wet sanding to remove particles that can and will scratch the substrate.

C) friction compounds. This is the old wood working methods of liquid or paste polished that include abrasive particles. Think of this as liquid sandpaper. Some of the products in this group builds up surface layers to fill in the gaps and erode quickly over time making the shine dull and ugly.

Each one can easily achieve the desired results.

The better argument (not which method is "better") is which method yields the best appearance for the product.
 
Just wanting to make the finish look a bit better. I'm using Titebond Thin CA for my finish. I have a pen on the lathe right now with 7 coats. Wanting to go up a step in finishing. No real problem with the blank and the finish itself.

I think the question is who is to say your finish technique is not good right now?? Are you comparing this to someone elses projects or how do you know what better looks like?? There are so many methods of finishing a simple pen it makes your head spin. No one method is better than an other. Maybe you can get better with what you got. Unless someone stands over your shoulder and sees first hand we will never know. So what does a bit better look like?? Have no idea.
 
I use 16 coats of Medium CA with a spritz of accelerator between coats. I then use all colors of padded, wet MicroMesh. I store my MM in a 16oz container of water.

My $0.02 US
Tomas
 
John T., from the other John T., I noticed what is called in enameling, orange peel, or a rough texture to the CA finish. Not sure what caused it but feel it can be polished out. 0hy other CA finishes look good upon close inspection.
tomas, I do the same as your second sentence with acrylic blanks then the liquid polish.
 
John T., from the other John T., I noticed what is called in enameling, orange peel, or a rough texture to the CA finish. Not sure what caused it but feel it can be polished out. 0hy other CA finishes look good upon close inspection.
tomas, I do the same as your second sentence with acrylic blanks then the liquid polish.

Are you using accelerator?? Most times that is the problem. If spray bottle may come out less atamized than can. Spiting through nozzle. Too close to blank. Wrong match of products. Oil on the blank. If you have one or two coats and then it happens I bet accelerator. Did not let bottom coat dry long enough and the materia is oily. If blo used to pop grain this needs to dry and cure first before top coating. That is all I got.
 
Take a look at the Stick Fast CA polishes. Follow the directions and no more wet sanding through 12,000 grit CA. Wasn't a believer until I tried it. Works on Acrylics also and smells like tooth paste.
 
Again, thanks for your replies and advice! Will take care with my finishes and be sure to eliminate the glitches that I might be causing.
Mr. Vic, did Zebulon Pike really take a peek at the peak?:wink:
 
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