plastic polish

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barrysj

Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
125
Location
woodbridge va
three questions on finishing....

1. What is everyone's favorite plastic polish?

and

2. When do you use it?

(after 12000 MM as a last step, or after 6000 MM then buff etc....)

3. What do you apply it with/buff it with?
 
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I use Meguiars PlastX (for cars) after 12000 MM, applied with a micro-fiber cloth. Apply end to end with the lathe off, and rub it in until the blank shines. Then a second application with the lathe on. Again, rub it until it shines.
Tom
 
I use One Step although I used to use auto polish and I'm not sure if I can see a difference.

I use the colored plastic pads on acrylic and CA. Stop at about 2400 (the purple one). On CA I use only the orange and purple pad, then go to the polish.

Use a soft paper towel, like Bounty or Members Mark from Sam's Club.

Ken
 
I use the stuff from Arizona Silhouette, but I can't remember what it's called. I use BLO and CA then wet sand 600 grit, then wet MM through 1200, then the plastic polish with the lathe on for a while then with the lathe off longitudinally.
 
witz1976 said:
what the heck is dolphin skin cp?
Click to expand...

It is a ultrafine abrasive Cutting Polish (CP), used in the surfboard industry. I get it by the quart (under $20) from the surfboard supply warehouse. It makes a nice intermediary step between Brasso and Huts. It reminds me of the optical grade cerium oxide, which is in the .2-.3micron range.

It makes the final pass with the Huts really pop.
 
TomS said:
I use Meguiars PlastX (for cars) after 12000 MM, applied with a micro-fiber cloth.
Click to expand...

I'll second the Meguiars, but I put it on while the lathe is running fast.
I got the Hut's Plastic Polish because I thought the 'grit' was finer, but if
I put it on after the Meguiars it seems to cut the shine back.
I'll apply it once .. small amount while running and buff it out with a soft
dry cloth. I'll usually do it again just because .. but don't notice a difference.
Works great..
 
Grade AAA powdered elk horn mixed at 5:1 with parrifin cut with 20% DNA and 8% linseed oil by volume (not by weight) then sifted through 600TC Egyptian cotton cloth. I store the mixture in quart jars sealed with Ball #36 rubber sealed lids (the blue rubber works best). Apply with flannel cloth while lathe is turning at exactly 2250 rpm (any faster and the compound melts so be careful)
 
I use brasso, or Hut Ultra Gloss or anything I can find for the final polish. I apply it a thigh speed. Like to use the micro-fiber towel, or paper towel and another one that works good is panty hose (nylon sock). I call it the GPH finish- - Grandma's Panty Hose.
 
I use Hut Ultra Gloss after the colored sanding pad things (can't remember the name of them...) I go all the way through the pads then hit it with Hut a few times and top with some Renaissance wax.
 
I sand to 600, then go with the pads, then finish it off with one step. 9 times out of 10, it leaves a brilliant shine that lasts a long time!
 
Polishing CA finishes: Dry sand to 1200 grit, wet sand MM 3200-12000 and polish with Novus #2 -- Harley dealer's usually carry the Novus #2 (polishing helmet shields and other plastic parts is my understanding -- I turn pens so I can't afford another money pit like owning a Harley!).

Polishing acrylics/Tru-stone: wet sand to 1200 grit, polish with Novus #3 & #2
 
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Texatdurango said:
Grade AAA powdered elk horn mixed at 5:1 with parrifin cut with 20% DNA and 8% linseed oil by volume (not by weight) then sifted through 600TC Egyptian cotton cloth. I store the mixture in quart jars sealed with Ball #36 rubber sealed lids (the blue rubber works best). Apply with flannel cloth while lathe is turning at exactly 2250 rpm (any faster and the compound melts so be careful)
Click to expand...


I love it!!
 
For all of those who use paper towels for polishing plastics and finishes, I would suggest switching to new cotton flannel. The few grit particles that are left over from the manufacturing process of the paper toweling are larger than the grit particles in the polish. There aren't many particles in a good quality paper, but it only takes one of them to leave that unexplained scratch in the finish.

I said new flannel, because any detergent residual from washing can scratch the surface; and drying will harden the ends of the cotton fibers, and that too can scratch the surface.
 
CA finish, wet MM to 12000, Novus 2, then Meguire's Plastic Windshield Polish. The cheapest place I have found to buy both the Novus ($5.95) and the Meguire's ($6.95) is at the local motorcycle shop.
 
RussFairfield said:
For all of those who use paper towels for polishing plastics and finishes, I would suggest switching to new cotton flannel. The few grit particles that are left over from the manufacturing process of the paper toweling are larger than the grit particles in the polish. There aren't many particles in a good quality paper, but it only takes one of them to leave that unexplained scratch in the finish.

I said new flannel, because any detergent residual from washing can scratch the surface; and drying will harden the ends of the cotton fibers, and that too can scratch the surface.
Click to expand...


So THAT explains why I keep seeing minor scratches...thanks Russ!!:biggrin:
 
Texatdurango said:
Grade AAA powdered elk horn mixed at 5:1 with parrifin cut with 20% DNA and 8% linseed oil by volume (not by weight) then sifted through 600TC Egyptian cotton cloth. I store the mixture in quart jars sealed with Ball #36 rubber sealed lids (the blue rubber works best). Apply with flannel cloth while lathe is turning at exactly 2250 rpm (any faster and the compound melts so be careful)
Click to expand...


I couldn't find the blue rubber seals???...(Just kidding) Wow, I'm still trying to figure out if you really have a lot of time on your hands or if you are poking fun...me thinks the later:)

Thanks everyone for the posts, I'm gonna try the MM to 12000 then Meguiars PlastX because it is easy to get to and cheap. I still can't seem to get any better with the super fine polish and the buff wheel vs the 12000 MM so I'll let you know how the plastic polish with a microfiber applicator works out.

-Dude
 
barrysj said:
I couldn't find the blue rubber seals???...(Just kidding) Wow, I'm still trying to figure out if you really have a lot of time on your hands or if you are poking fun...me thinks the later:)

Thanks everyone for the posts, I'm gonna try the MM to 12000 then Meguiars PlastX because it is easy to get to and cheap. I still can't seem to get any better with the super fine polish and the buff wheel vs the 12000 MM so I'll let you know how the plastic polish with a microfiber applicator works out.

-Dude
Click to expand...

The later would be correct! :) I thought my "formula" was just as good as some of the other concoctions I saw!
 
Halleluiah !!!!

Tried the Plastx plastic polish. For those who have been MMing without using Plastic polish at the end....you don't know what you have been missing! I used to spend 30 min MMing to get the best shine possible, and it was pretty good, but just peeled off three pens with only about 10 min of MMing and finishing with Plastic polish.....fabulous! Used microfiber cloth available at most autozones to buff the plastic polish while on the lathe and shazam! no little scratches..nothing visible to the naked eye. Along with George's suggestion to wait at least 24 hours for your CA to dry, I have found my panacea!

Thanks all for the suggestions, and the responses to this forum.

-Dude

Steve Barry
 
Being new to turning, and trusting the advice and comments made by those more experienced turners, I just spent my weekend trying to find a supplier of Grade AAA powdered elk horn. Have not found a supplier yet, but I will try again Monday when stores reopen. The good news is that I did find that left handed smoke shifter I have been searching for since I was in the Boy Scouts.

Thanks for the observations and insight as well.

Gary Zakian
 
Turn with a sharp skew. MM 1500-12000. BlueMagic Head Light Restorer (microfiber clothe), PLASTX by Meguiar's (microfiber clothe), and then finish with Hut Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish (Cotton T shirt).

BTW: Paper Towel is made from wood pulp, should never touch a finished surface. Should also not clean your glasses with it. Polycarb and wood don't make for good friends.
 
Gary Zakian said:
Being new to turning, and trusting the advice and comments made by those more experienced turners, I just spent my weekend trying to find a supplier of Grade AAA powdered elk horn. Have not found a supplier yet, but I will try again Monday when stores reopen. The good news is that I did find that left handed smoke shifter I have been searching for since I was in the Boy Scouts.

Thanks for the observations and insight as well.

Gary Zakian
Click to expand...
You will find most that reputable five & dimes will carry the elkhorn! :)
 
With all the BS going on here, at least we have a use for all that Bounty paper towel we bought for apply the Novus and Meguiars! :)
 
RussFairfield said:
For all of those who use paper towels for polishing plastics and finishes, I would suggest switching to new cotton flannel. The few grit particles that are left over from the manufacturing process of the paper toweling are larger than the grit particles in the polish. There aren't many particles in a good quality paper, but it only takes one of them to leave that unexplained scratch in the finish.

I said new flannel, because any detergent residual from washing can scratch the surface; and drying will harden the ends of the cotton fibers, and that too can scratch the surface.
Click to expand...


Here are words to live by. I used viva paper towels which were doing great. Then one day I ran out and decided hey my blue shop towels feel as soft. Well I kept getting scratch marks and I kept figuring well maybe I did not micromesh good enough so back on the lathe and looked at the finish after mm and everything looked great and went to put polish on and again same thing. We after the 3rd time it hit me that the towels are too abrasive. Switched to some flannel pads I had from some flat work polishing and have never looked back.

I can remember when I first joined here all the rage was about a product called micro finish and how everyone was using it. Well I tried it back then and continue to use the 2 step process today and am very happy with the results.
 
Texatdurango said:
Grade AAA powdered elk horn mixed at 5:1 with parrifin cut with 20% DNA and 8% linseed oil by volume (not by weight) then sifted through 600TC Egyptian cotton cloth. I store the mixture in quart jars sealed with Ball #36 rubber sealed lids (the blue rubber works best). Apply with flannel cloth while lathe is turning at exactly 2250 rpm (any faster and the compound melts so be careful)
Click to expand...
my brain still trying to figure what tha hek of a mix is that:hypnotized:,or is it a bomb recipe.:biggrin:
 
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